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Here's how I have my UltraGauge installed. The cable runs from the OBDII port behind the access panel under the steering wheel, and then up the side of the dash. I left a loop hanging on the side so that there is some slack in it if I want to pull it off the Velcro to reset trip gauges, etc.
So I take it the white arrow when installed back in the vehicle is pointing forward? Also have been reading about using anti seize grease on the 8 bolts as well. Have others been successful with an impact gun to take the old drive shaft out? Read that lifting by the body will help position the drive shaft in a way that will alow room for an impact gun to be used, is this true?
Will drain motor oil too this weekend Whyte swapping the drive shafts.
Still have not ordered the coolant hoses or thermostat yet as iv read alot of over heating stories or mixed instructions on draining and flushing, then adding new coolant. So a little hesitant to start at that just now.
No need to be afraid of the coolant. A flush, & proper good clean coolant amount is arguably that trucks best friend.
Look into re routing coolant flow to an inline thermostat; as your looking into replacing hoses coolant and thermostat anyways.
You'll watch your UltraGage show you its running few degrees cooler.
Last edited by SundayFunday; 03-03-2016 at 07:45 PM.
Also have been reading about using anti seize grease on the 8 bolts as well. Have others been successful with an impact gun to take the old drive shaft out?
Believe anti-seize recommended on flanges particularly trans case and not on bolts/nylon lock-nuts which would degrade locking ability. Impact gun is stupid over kill for removing nuts/bolts and without right socket/extension likely to screw up wrenching flats.
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I removed the bolts with a spanner wrench and socket. I had two spanners of the same size. One wrench was thicker and only grabbed the top of the nut. Started to round it. Tried the thinner spanner and it seated all the way on the nut. A good oomph and each nut loosened with no problem. They are not anything crazy tight.
Front two wheels on jack stands will allow you to put the truck in neutral and turn the wheels to spin the shaft to get access to all the nuts coming off. putting the shaft on, bolt up the rear first then the shaft will spin in neutral to mate up with the front flange. The rear bolts stay on the truck thus you only got four new (front) bolts and 8 new nuts (front and rear)
i guess i should have said that id be using a ryobi 18v half inch impact on its lowest setting, its got 3 settings. if i can get a socket on one side and box wrench on the other side and brake it loos by hand i suppose ill try that first.
jamieb, do you have a link to what the spanner wrench looks like that you used? the spanner wrench i have at home i use for the tensioner pulley on my VW's timing belt. but its a 2 pins on it like this one( Sears.com )
thanks jamieb for explaining why i only got 4 bolts and got 8 lock nuts. i was wondering about that.
so in the online manual, is this front drive shaft called the propeller shaft? i found a page showing these specs; i take it the flex coupling is that rear rubber piece in front of the rear axle connecting to the rear drive shaft right? so i just want to use the 35 lbf.ft for all 8 lock nuts correct?
Propeller shaft to transfer gearbox 47 Nm (35 lbf.ft) Propeller shaft to differential 47 Nm (35 lbf.ft) Propeller shaft to flexible coupling 76 Nm (56 lbf.ft) Flexible coupling to differential 76 Nm (56 lbf.ft)
Believe anti-seize recommended on flanges particularly trans case and not on bolts/nylon lock-nuts which would degrade locking ability. Impact gun is stupid over kill for removing nuts/bolts and without right socket/extension likely to screw up wrenching flats.
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so in the online manual, is this front drive shaft called the propeller shaft? i found a page showing these specs; i take it the flex coupling is that rear rubber piece in front of the rear axle connecting to the rear drive shaft right? so i just want to use the 35 lbf.ft for all 8 lock nuts correct?
So I was able to get the box end of a wrench on both sides but no luck braking the nuts loose yet on the front part of the shaft. Spraying it all with dw40 now. Will spray again and try tomorrow morning. I'd really like to get a socket on the bolt side and just hold the lock nut with the box wrench. But the deep 14mm socket doesn't exactly seat perfectly on the hex head so worried it might spin.
The back side, well the open ended side of my 14mm is skinny enough to fit in there and looks like there is room for a swivel and a 14mm socket and the impact to get that loos. If u needed to replace those bolts, with the lip behind it, how do you replace them if u needed to?
Here is what I grinder on my box wrench to get a full seat on the lock nut up front.
Iirc.
I used a shallow socket on a swivel on the nut side and an open end wrench on the flange side.
They are nylock nuts and need to be replaced anyway, so it you put heat to the nuts the plastic will melt and they will come off.
Originally Posted by BS50MGSXR
So I was able to get the box end of a wrench on both sides but no luck braking the nuts loose yet on the front part of the shaft. Spraying it all with dw40 now. Will spray again and try tomorrow morning. I'd really like to get a socket on the bolt side and just hold the lock nut with the box wrench. But the deep 14mm socket doesn't exactly seat perfectly on the hex head so worried it might spin.
The back side, well the open ended side of my 14mm is skinny enough to fit in there and looks like there is room for a swivel and a 14mm socket and the impact to get that loos. If u needed to replace those bolts, with the lip behind it, how do you replace them if u needed to?
Here is what I grinder on my box wrench to get a full seat on the lock nut up front.
03-01-2016, 12:17 PM
