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My quest for a cool engine...
OK... I figured I would document my journey to hopefully help someone else out as this is a hot topic (no pun intended).
I've logged some of my quest in this thread. Quick background: Purchased a 2000 Disco 2 almost a year ago with 190k on it. I've put only 4,800 miles on it since I've had it. I got it from an independent Land Rover shop in N.C. and drove it back to Atlanta. The shop had a dealer license so they were obligated to sell something "solid" or without warning lights and whatever other requirements N.C. laws require. - First thing I did was put in the lower temp (180 degree) thermostat. Then I installed an UltraGauge. For a long while it only got up to 194 degrees. Then it started creeping up on occasion. - Next I installed a new fan clutch and had cruising temps at 188 and it didn't go over 194. About a month later the temps started creeping up again... stopped it was higher and would go back down to 194 while driving. - Then I replaced the radiator and again, the temps went down to 188 on the regular and up to 194 when stopped in traffic. BUT... then the temp started to go up to 195.8 and then 197+ when stopped in traffic - I ran a test for exhaust fumes in the cooling system and it didn't detect any - I re-bled the system and temps went back down... then back up after a few weeks. Note: The fan doesn't have any play and spins freely when the belt is removed. - My lower radiator hose looked like it was collapsing a bit... so I replaced it and BOOM... solid 188 up to 190... for a few weeks. Now the temp is creeping back up. - I JUST now re-bled the system and have a theory... I am thinking that I might be getting a bit of air in the system over a couple weeks time which is why I'll fix something, bleed the system, and run cool for a few weeks. My next step is to do a pressure test to see if I've got a leak somewhere. I don't seem to be loosing coolant though. It seems feasible that I could have some sort of air leak without leaking coolant... right...? Am I missing anything? In the other post people have stated that I shouldn't be worried about traffic light temps into the low 200s, and that my running temps are low so don't be so anal. Yeah... you're right... but I'm getting weeks of running without going over 194 then it starts creeping up. Which, if that's the case seems like if it keeps going up it's then in the bad zone. Also for context on my obsession with this... I have a 40 year old Harley that doesn't leak (yes it has oil). |
Yeah your temps should stay consistent over time, especially only a few weeks. Sounds like the opposite of what normally happens. Pressure test sounds like a good idea. check the oil for any signs of coolant? I'd also try just leaving it alone for a bit longer... you're perfectly safe with temps up to 210-215.. does it ever get there? I'd be thrilled with ~200F max temp, and you should be too :)
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Your first step before spending money was to pressure test the cooling system. |
Two words. Inline Thermostat.
I have not seen 195 since I did mine. Of course if you have an underlying seepage of compression into the system resulting in air, then this may not help. Does the coolant level change? |
A D2 with an OEM designed thermostat = temps will swing up/down. Say you start off at 188F, then your AC cycles, you pass someone, climb a hill, or even loose the draft off of a car in front of you, or you encounter traffic. All of those things can make your temp climb. You have ABSOLUTELY nothing to worry about up to 215F. The main thing is that you see the temp climb & then go back down. All our D2’s from the factory ran 195-220F easy and that was back when we didn’t have scangauge or ultragauges to get real time temps! I am pretty OCD when it comes to keeping my LR’s running cool. I’ve got 3 D2’s that I drive with OEM style 180F thermostats and all 3 of them will rise & fall with about a 10F variable. |
Is the inline thermostat different than the 180 degree replacing the OEM? Which I've already done.
Also... no... I don't seem to be loosing coolant and don't see any in the oil. |
Originally Posted by Best4x4
(Post 683804)
A D2 with an OEM designed thermostat = temps will swing up/down. Say you start off at 188F, then your AC cycles, you pass someone, climb a hill, or even loose the draft off of a car in front of you, or you encounter traffic. All of those things can make your temp climb. You have ABSOLUTELY nothing to worry about up to 215F. The main thing is that you see the temp climb & then go back down. All our D2’s from the factory ran 195-220F easy and that was back when we didn’t have scangauge or ultragauges to get real time temps! I am pretty OCD when it comes to keeping my LR’s running cool. I’ve got 3 D2’s that I drive with OEM style 180F thermostats and all 3 of them will rise & fall with about a 10F variable. So yeah, an inline thermostat can make a big difference, but with a properly maintained cooling system I see no reason for it whatsoever. |
If you are not losing any coolant then I would not suspect anything too unusual, my 04 runs 188 if I am moving steadily, 192-194 in stop and go multiple traffic lights in a row sort of thing and up to 197- 208 just sitting for a long time at light or in serious rush hour traffic. Oddly it is happiest moving slowly in low range, up ugly FSR's it will run 185 -188 for hours with speedo not even registering.
Disco's seem to like 1900 to around 2400 rpm for cooling, although after a long hill climb when my temp can get up around 197-200, going down the other side I often hit 182 as the fan clutch has not cooled and is still well engaged |
Originally Posted by bcurtman
(Post 683803)
Two words. Inline Thermostat.
I have not seen 195 since I did mine. Of course if you have an underlying seepage of compression into the system resulting in air, then this may not help. Does the coolant level change? |
If your hoses were collaping, l'd check/change the reservior cap.
Brian. |
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