New GPR Block installed
 

Took a long weekend to install my GPR Top Hat Lined block...lots of pics but will have to upload those when I get home. Unfortunatly, I bought the long block, so all th epics of the new engine will look strikingly like a cleaned up version of the old one. Thanks to Greenharoguy (nathan) for his help...couldn't have done it without him! Still have to finish putting the intake, some wire harness plugs and AC on, but got the engine out and new one in in a (long!) day. Here's some general afterthoughts:

-The RAVE is a guide, and gives you the order of events, however, does not tell you how to do these events in most cases, and not all events are necessary. For an engine pull/install, removing the radiator is and wire harness is not required (props to Bryan H for that tip!!!).

-When you put the bell housing back on and the torque convertor doesn't line up (it won't), remove the circular plate on the bottom of the tranny (held by 3 small screws). That'll give you access to the torque convertor which can be turned easily to line up. Probably obvious to most, but this cost me a couple hours of head scratching and a few phone calls befire I finally found that and removed it from sheer curiosity.

-Engine hoists are great for alligning the power steering pump mounting holes!

-There's a tool which is specifically designed to crimp and hold open (via a self-locking mechanism) those pincher style coolant clamps. Craftsman Cable Operated Hose Clamp Pliers - Tools - Mechanics & Auto Tools - Automotive Specialty Tools BUY IT!

-I had a bunch of extra parts on hand (motor mounts, water pump, TB heater thingy, etc...) just in case and didn't need any of them. Instead, I broke the Throttle body stud (the brass one that goes through the butterfly valve). Had to buy a new TB (the whole thing). Not sure what the lesson learned there is other than $#@! happens.

-Don't leave your trouble-light under the car when you disconnect the fuel rail!

-SAI sucks!

Pics and hopefully an engine that starts to follow...

Very cool - I am looking at the GPR and the Cannibal long block myself. I wil l be curious how the motor performs once it is broken in and that next oil change.

Takes 5K mi according GPR for break in.

Got everything hooked up, topped off and ready. Turned the key and...nadda! Got the dinging in the cab and some lights on the dash so there's some power. Wouldn't shift out of park though. Tried jumping it with my GTI and eventually got it out of park. Put it on the trickle charger and will see if that makes a difference by morning.

2 problems found...battery ground not connected (where on the block does it attach?) and an orange multiplug under the coolant reservoir was not connected. Anyone know what that's for? there's a grey one and an orange one. Don't ever remember disconnecting it in the first place so perhaps it's for ACE, SLS or some other system I don't have.

The ground cable connects below the alternator bracket on the right side of the motor and the orange plug just hangs there, at least on my '04.

Is that the same mounting point for the coolant pipe?

I believe there is a seperate tapped hole in the bracket just for the ground but any bolt or stud will work provided that it has a diameter that allows for a large enough bolt for full contact across the terminal.

Found it, attached it and now its trying to turn over but will not. Does anything need to be done about the fuel lost from unplugging the fuel rail?

Do you have fuel pressure and spark?
My CKP sensor went bad and had the same symptoms

The pump is in the tank and the air will be purged while trying to start it. Confirm you have fuel by pressing on the schraeder valve on the rail and pull a plug to check for spark. Probably best to check for spark before spraying gasoline on the motor so do it in the opposite order.