New headgaskets, still getting coolant in the oil
 

I bought the truck with 90k miles with an overheating problem. No big deal, so I think. Put a battery in it and replaced the upper radiator hose that was stuffed in the clutch fan.

Thought I was in the clear and paid 900 dollars for a disco with 90k mint condition that just had a hole in a hose. Negative. Drove it to work that day and the truck overheated right before i got to the shop (about 13 miles from my house). Heat stopped working and gauge started rising. Made me think hmm still losing coolant. Checked the level and it was about a gallon low. Filled it up and drove it home. Same deal, low coolant and now the oil is emulsified.

Popped the heads off, had them refaced .010. Replaced headgaskets, etc. Put it back together. Truck ran good from the get go, only having the leak, causing it to overheat. Started right up, no more check engine light. Took it for about a 10-15 mile drive and the truck starts to overheat once again. CEL comes back on. Pulled the dipstick and clearly there is still coolant in the oil.

I did the chemical test and that came up clean. So now im thinking where can water get into my oil so rapidly besides my head gasket. Brought me to my timing cover. Im not leaking any coolant or oil externally. Is it possible that my timing cover could be causing my issue?

I did not seal anything with any kind of sealer when i assembled the intake manifold and plenum...just new gaskets. could this also be the cause of a internal leak? That could also be maybe why im losing it internally but not getting hydrocarbons in my cooling system.

Any Input would be appreciated.

Thank you.

The valley pan is normally sealed in the corners on assembly - could be part of the problem.

From RAVE:

Refit
1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

tighten at this stage.


At least heads don't have to come off. Front cover gasket would do it from the water pump channels. If going that way, consider oil pump mechanical pressure test, and inspect oil pump for cracks. Oil pump kit from AB is like $110 with cover gasket and front seal as well.

i actually did use some black rtv on the rubber seals on the end vally caps.

Ill take the timing cover apart, replace all of that. If thats not the issue then back to the intake i go.

thank you for the input.

Preasure test it before you start ripping it apart

Im curious to how this may help my problem, by testing it. Engine runs fine, no ticks nothing.

If i were to test the oil pressure and it were low that would indicate that i have a faulty pump but by having a faulty pump am i going to have different fluids mixing?

I did not mean that im going to take the front cover off, and replace the oil pump, water pump,etc. Just the gaskets...would you still recommend a oil pressure test or no?

They are referrring to pressure testing your cooling system. You woud do this buy using a pressure testing device that mounts to the coolant tank and you pump it up to pressure and see if it holds. If not you most likely have a crack in the block coolant passages caused by the overheating. I don't think you need to worry about the timing cover as the oil supply going from the pump thru the time cover housing to the engine block is sperated by about an inch of space from any contact with coolant. I think you may be in the market for a new block.

why would i pressurize my cooling system when i cant see the leak and i know that the leak is getting into my oil. I pressurized the system by letting it run and yes...there is a leak. my question is where from........

i did a chemical test and not getting hydrocarbons in the cooling system, ruling out a cracked block or slipped liner

the only way a pressure tester is going to help me possibly is having the oil pan off and seeing where the leak is coming from....

Pressure testing the cooling system could help you find out where the leak is or isn't. The timing cover/oil pump pan gaskets go bad and with the water pump being in the mix it's possible it's coming in that way too (leaking one way, not both).

A few of us have had that problem... I replaced the gasket and water pump on mine last spring. Wouldn't have found it without pressure testing. Thought it was my head(s) too. RAVE gives the breakdown

http://www.landroverresource.com

Good luck.

The reason to do the oil PSI test is to confirm if you need to replace oil pump while doing all the other work. A weak oil pump will kill your engine eventually. Yours may be healthy. Can't tell just by the warning light.

ok because that had nothing to do with my question. i was just slightly confused. thank you though, and every one for the input. I sometime feel like "house" when im stumped. I like to bounce ideas off of people.

So as of right now I took the oil pan off after work today, oil looked like lithium grease. Rented a cooling system pressure tester, going to fill it up and lay under the truck with a light and hopefully see water coming from the front timing cover. Fingers crossed.