Observations on coolant temperature...
 

2000 Disco, 115K miles, headgasket replaced successfuly months ago.
Zero coolant loss, zero moisture under oil cap, zero oil in coolant,
zero waterfall noise at heater core. 50/50 Peak coolant mix. Running very well.

Water pump one day new as old was wobbly.
GM 215157 fan clutch one day new. Felt no harder to turn nor different than stock.
NO thermostat, uncollapsible direct pipe from radiator outlet to pump inlet.

Ambient temperature 80F/27C, Humidity 55%.
Digital thermometer independent from vehicle sensors, hooked to engine outlet immersed inside coolant flow hose.

At steady ~2000 rpm/~55mph, nearly flat terrain, air conditioner off :

Running temperature about 225F/107C
Mild hills temperature 245F/118C

Noticed temperature comes down 2-3 degreesC / 4-7 F by engaging third at 55mph.

Vehicle dash thermometer stuck at center of scale from 163F/73C to 232F/111C
At the upper end of the 'safe' dash thermometer range, temperature reads 248F/120C

----> Is there a smaller diameter water pump pulley that can be adapted ?
----> Is there a humongously thick radiator from a tractor or whatever being overall 17" tall and 29" wide that can be adapted ?

Summer time would make the vehicle unuseable :mad:

Pictures below not perfect but readable. Left figures is temperature read, right figures is alarm limit beeper as set.

Sounds like you need a new radiator.

Running temperature about 225F/107C
Mild hills temperature 245F/118C

running way to hot in the melt down range, stop driving it, and I have to assume that your condenser fan is not working as it should kick in a 115.

What is this all about "NO thermostat, uncollapsible direct pipe from radiator outlet to pump inlet."

You have water flow thru the thermostat into the heater core or at least loop the water so it will flow back.

Hi drowssap. Happily running half a year without thermostat,

---> P1000962.jpg Photo by Innernet | Photobucket
---> http://s588.photobucket.com/user/Inn...00955.jpg.html

-As the thermostat is meant to warm up the passengers sooner in cold climates, per LandRover-
and because the cooling system is a clear design goof and want to get rid of risks.

The properly hooked heater core is blockable in summer :

---> http://s588.photobucket.com/user/Inn...00960.jpg.html

The condenser fan does not do much at ~55mph.

Before you do anything thing, get a scanner with real time readings and see what temps it shows at a 5 minute idle, driving around town and highway speeds then get back to us with those numbers.

Running without a thermostat is normally found when overheating is hard to cure. Under certain conditions the coolant does not spend enough time in the radiator and you become heat soaked.

A 180F thermostat would be a plus. Your radiator should read 10F or less top to bottom along the fins in a vertical line. If bottom half is clogged up, it will be cooler than the top.

Many members with a 180F stat and healthy cooling system have temps that are under 200. Of course, the coolant sensor could be out of spec and giving a false reading. Normally, with no stat you would stay cooler than normal, maybe use more gas (ECU makes mixture richer, maybe not closed loop), and oil lubrication would be less than optimal. When I ran my D1 without a stat, it made 140 - 150F.

Um, he already gave us everything we need to know.

Dude, you MUST run a thermostat in the cooling system, the t-stat has several functions.
It helps shorten engine warm up time, which makes the passengers happy, keeps the engine happy, helps increase MPG and helps the engine last longer.
It also allows the coolant to stay in the radiator long enough to be cooled by the air as you are driving or by the fan when you are stopped.
Do nothing else and put in a t-stat and your temps will return to normal.
Put in a thermostat, stat!

Where you pulling your temps from? Ever try an ultra gauge? You sure you are accurate?

I would first and foremost pick up a 180 t-stat from amazon.com. Around $35 bucks. Then invest in a brass propeller airtex waterpump. You should be good to go after that. If you have the money invest in an ultragauge. It gives you real time temperatures and codes, they are awesome.

240 F is too hot, you do not want to ruin those fresh head gaskets.

Thanks, SavannahBuzz.
Under what conditions would the coolant not spend enough time in the radiator ? Makes no sense to me. :confused:

The radiator was removed, inspected and is fully clean as a whistle inside.

Running lean !...That may be a good point !



Thanks, Spike. How can coolant not be long enough in the radiator ? Makes no sense to me.:confused:

The extra pictured digital thermometer was tested in boiling water before installing and showed to be accurate.