Oil Leak Between Filter Adapter and Engine
 

I have a small oil leak which appears to be coming from the area between the engine block and the oil filter adapter. Looking at the Atlantic British website, they sell both a replacement "O" ring and also a new adapter. Has anyone else had a similar leak? If so, what fixed it? I am leaning towards just replacing the "O" ring at this point and then replacing the adapter during a future oil change if the new "O" ring doesn't solve the problem.

BTW -- I have an '04 Disco.

You sure its the adapter and not the filter? Could be when the oil was changed the old O-ring on the filter got left behind and the new one was put on over it.

There is TSB on that, land rover wss changing the adapter housing for cars under warranty. I changed the o-ring, but it continued to leak. In my case it might have been due to improper torquing. If you are not planing on changing the adapter, get some new screws. They are M6, 1.0

Advance auto parts have the screws. I actually have an adapter on order with dealer, but didn't have any time to pick it up.

sure its not the oring on the oil plug on the timing cover. you need a new oring and use some teleflon pipe tape and you will be fine.

I saw this on Land Rover expedition Quick fix: Oil filter housing leak | Land Rover Expedition, might help.

That is a Diesel engine so I am not quite sure that it would be the same as our 4.0 and 4.6 v8 gas engines.

How do you remove the oil filter adapter/housing?
 

There is a leak between the oil filter adapter/housing and the engine block. I have removed the four bolts. I have tugged on it and no luck. Its seems that you can twist it off but will stop on a corner of the oil pan/engine block. There must be a way and no to dropping the oil pan because that corner where it stops is right above it. Any suggestions?

Late to the party (roaming on another LR forum 99.99% of the time.
"If" the added sandwich adapter has a leaking problem as I found adding one to my 95 D1 it's because of NOT enough "O" ring crush allowed due to the groove or pocket of the "O" ring sits in as too deep.
Same common problem with 1987 era 325is (2.5 litre) BMW's factory oil filter to engine block adapter.
Machined the adapters down on the lathe the mating surface to block area allowing for increased"O" ring crush now having bone dry engines no leaks. The BMW's factory "O" ring had about a 1/2 mm of crush, way to low of crush to seal anything.
Second option, you looked into replacement "O" rings in SAE vs Metric measurements, looking for a slightly fatter "O" ring cross section diameter (not full "O" ring app 3" diameter) that will still fit into the "O" ring pocket's groove?
Had to modify the sandwich adapter for the D1 allowing the Pre Oiler's oil to pass through the oil filter first before entering the engine's oil passages.
Off this sandwich adapter a short stainless wire wrapped nylon flex line to the radiator cross member, from there hard piped to the 3 qt MasterLube.org Pre Oiler. Also a "Tee" fitting added for the electric pressure sensor and the "low oil pressure EFI engine shut down sensor". That EFI sensor then triggers the time delay timer with relay holding the electric valve open.This adjustable delay timer with red/green LED dash light allowing any engine starts be it after an overnight oil drain, parked 4 months or any restarts beyond 2 hrs.parked restarts (my rules). Having 38 psi wet engine with 8 added seconds pressurizing the engine and dripping internally helps slingging oil off the crank lubing the cam lobes as well the cylinder bores before ever starting it. Dry engine no leaks going on 18+ years of pre oiling use when the 4.6 was installed. A "just in case AN fitting cap) to cap off the flex line at the sandwhich adapter should flex line ever fail. Hasn't so far plus thousands of MasterLubes sold not one flex line failure ever posted minus an engine fire. This 95 D1 has a 1/4" clearance before starting to thread the 7" long Hastings FL426 oil filter which by itself holds 33 1/2 ounces of oil alone installed dry. Wet starts, happy rod and main bearings vs into the brass, babbitt missing from old 3.9 the dry start LR engine. Been there done that once owning this D1 hearing rattling rods every morning with the 3.9 until it had oil pressure. End of novel........~~=o&o>........