Oil Leaks - i am sure I am not the first one
#21
Last edited by Friday Night Disco; 02-08-2017 at 10:55 PM.
The following users liked this post:
sayeedA (02-09-2017)
#22
Why would that sound crazy? A lot of folks use heavier oil in 15-yr old trucks with 100K+ miles; it's all good. If you have any concerns with project time & difficulty look up the exercise in the workshop manual. I always read it over 2-3 times before I start on anything. The oil pan is just a bunch of bolts BUT if you drop that go ahead & at least replace crankshaft seal and oil pump. The pan has to be dropped to get the front cover off & trust me you don't want to take the oil pan off more than once. Yes, it's a pain in the a$$ to put back on if you are laying on the ground so kill as many birds possible with your 1 stone.
The 15w/40 prob won't help with any leaks at this point, the seals are loose as cheap a hooker but you should be running the engine in the heavy Dino oil anyway; its a 60-yr old design that gets no benefit from synthetic oil - the oil pump & hydraulic lifters won't build as much pressure I don't think.
The 15w/40 prob won't help with any leaks at this point, the seals are loose as cheap a hooker but you should be running the engine in the heavy Dino oil anyway; its a 60-yr old design that gets no benefit from synthetic oil - the oil pump & hydraulic lifters won't build as much pressure I don't think.
Sounds like a plan. I am going to attack that next week hopefully. let me do some research. I replaced the Oil pump last year. I guess I could just get away with just the seal.
I guess i need to get one of these Kit and Oil pan seal. How about the the crankshaft seal? is that the Black seal in the pic? would you use additional RTV type Sealant? When we talk about front seal is that the big gasket in the pic?
Oil Pump Gear Kit With Gaskets For Land Rover And Range Rover
Also a video from the front.
An Overview Of Land Rover Front Engine Covers
Are there other suppliers?
#23
Joe,
Sounds like a plan. I am going to attack that next week hopefully. let me do some research. I replaced the Oil pump last year. I guess I could just get away with just the seal.
I guess i need to get one of these Kit and Oil pan seal. How about the the crankshaft seal? is that the Black seal in the pic? would you use additional RTV type Sealant? When we talk about front seal is that the big gasket in the pic?
Oil Pump Gear Kit With Gaskets For Land Rover And Range Rover
Also a video from the front.
An Overview Of Land Rover Front Engine Covers
Are there other suppliers?
Sounds like a plan. I am going to attack that next week hopefully. let me do some research. I replaced the Oil pump last year. I guess I could just get away with just the seal.
I guess i need to get one of these Kit and Oil pan seal. How about the the crankshaft seal? is that the Black seal in the pic? would you use additional RTV type Sealant? When we talk about front seal is that the big gasket in the pic?
Oil Pump Gear Kit With Gaskets For Land Rover And Range Rover
Also a video from the front.
An Overview Of Land Rover Front Engine Covers
Are there other suppliers?
ya that's an oil seal in the pic. you won't need to replace oil pump or gasket if you did that last year like you say. just make sure that the front cover gasket isn't leaking water or oil. you didn't replace the seal at that time when you did the pump? you can get the oil seal anywhere for about $5 or $10. you do not need to use RTV sealant on anything (edit: exception is (4) penny-size dabs on specific area of oil pan gasket where the pan meets a void of the block) RTV is what you use in place of a gasket 95% of the time, or to fill a void; just under certain circumstances is the use of RTV called for. gaskets just go on dry unless you want to glue it on with copper, seals just need a light coat of grease because of the interference fit and you want it to slide into the housing and over the rotating assemblies without any distortion.
Last edited by chubbs878; 02-09-2017 at 01:04 PM.
#24
in case this has not been covered check the vent hose coming from the passenger valve cover if the "pcv" is blocked shes gonna pour oil. At least mine did. Also ive run 15/40 did ok tried 5/30 sounded bad, running 20/50 now and its the quietest its been. Oil pan sucks. Makes sure you get all the horizontal bolts from the bell housing and the two in the recessed holes in the pan. Loosen trans cooler line bracket that will give you a little more room. Don't forget the sealant, i used grey RTV on the 4 connections at the front and rear main plates. The oil pan gasket should have 4 areas on it that are different thats the locations. Good time to clean the oil pick up tube strainer while your at it.
#25
ya that's an oil seal in the pic. you won't need to replace oil pump or gasket if you did that last year like you say. just make sure that the front cover gasket isn't leaking water or oil. you didn't replace the seal at that time when you did the pump? you can get the oil seal anywhere for about $5 or $10. you do not need to use RTV sealant on anything. RTV is what you use in place of a gasket 95% of the time, or to fill a void; just under certain circumstances is the use of RTV called for. gaskets just go on dry unless you want to glue it on with copper, seals just need a light coat of grease because of the interference fit and you want it to slide into the housing and over the rotating assemblies without any distortion.
Last edited by sayeedA; 02-09-2017 at 12:42 PM.
#27
I have to clean the **** out of all the oil fist to see where the leaks are.
Thanks
#28
new update - see if you have any suggestions
Here is what i did since last time
1. changed all the gear oil to 85/140 regular screw the Synth
2. New Transmission fluid Maxlife Synth added a bottle of Lucas
3. Added some Lucas Oil leak stop
Clean the heck out of bottom with degreaser and power wash
only fresh leak after 2 weeks of driving are i the pic.
1. front left driver side looks like coming around the bolt
2. some leakage from the Oil Pan and Transmission meeting place!! is there a gasket there?
I don't see any front seal leakage yet.
will appreciate help
1. changed all the gear oil to 85/140 regular screw the Synth
2. New Transmission fluid Maxlife Synth added a bottle of Lucas
3. Added some Lucas Oil leak stop
Clean the heck out of bottom with degreaser and power wash
only fresh leak after 2 weeks of driving are i the pic.
1. front left driver side looks like coming around the bolt
2. some leakage from the Oil Pan and Transmission meeting place!! is there a gasket there?
I don't see any front seal leakage yet.
will appreciate help
#29
That's the back crankshaft seal leaking...heavily; you have to seperate the trans or pull the engine & then split the trans to replace that 1. I have the same leak but not to that extent. The oil @ the front--- is that it? The leak doesn't originate someplace else & end up right there @ the pic? It should be clear if it's the sump gasket at fault if this is the case. For the rear-main, you can try a stop leak product but short of very intensive labor a seal conditioner is your only option... or just let it be.
#30
That's the back crankshaft seal leaking...heavily; you have to seperate the trans or pull the engine & then split the trans to replace that 1. I have the same leak but not to that extent. The oil @ the front--- is that it? The leak doesn't originate someplace else & end up right there @ the pic? It should be clear if it's the sump gasket at fault if this is the case. For the rear-main, you can try a stop leak product but short of very intensive labor a seal conditioner is your only option... or just let it be.
it seems like where the oil pan and Transmission meets. Understand the seal between engine and transmission is a hard one - and I am not going to deal with that.
But is it possible some of them may be coming from the Oil pan gasket? oil on the Bolt that seems like above the Oil pan Gasket. I know you said before if I am going to drop the oil pan i should check the redo the front seal. That looks like a lot of work.
Also, how do you get the Oil pan out? all kinds of bars are preventing from getting the pan out.
Thanks