2001 Land Rover Dicsovery II about 115k miles. Head gaskets replaced at 60k miles

I realize that leaks are a part of LR ownership, but I'm at a crossroads with my LR. It is my daily driver, but more of a third vehicle and my wife would love to see it gone. Recently it needed a new catalytic converter (old one was saw-zalled and stolen). Before dropping more money into it, I had a shop look it over. They said nothing was wrong with it but they tried to rip me off on the cat converter (said only OEM would work). Next shop said I could use aftermarket and I had them look the LR over. Again they said nothing wrong with it and I had the cat replaced ($1150 -- a little high but I didn't have too much choice). After I got the cat replaced, I noticed a slight coolant leak and decided to bring it to a shop someone recommended. They found the following:

* oil leaking from the head gasket
* oil leaking from the oil pan
* oil leaking at valve cover gasket
* power steering fluid leaking
* brake fluid leaking at master cyliner
* waterpump leaking

There recommendation was to replace the water pump ($600 with coolant flush) and monitor the other fluids. A couple of days later I was driving it around and I noticed the vehicle was making a squeeling sound when I turned the wheel. When I got it home, I added some MaxLife power steering fluid with leak stop. Maybe a bad decision because this seemed to make what was a few drop leak problem into a 4 ounces/day leaking problem. Also, the LR still squeels (something between a squeel and a revving sound) when I make turns even though I fill the reservoir to the fill line.

I've downloaded the RAVE manual and looked at some things but was hoping for some more info before I figured out what to do next:

(1) Is the squeel/revving sound when turning mean that I likely need a new power steering pump? I put the LR on stands and tried to find the leak, but nothing jumped out at me -- no obvious problems with the hose that I could see.

(2) Is a brake fluid leak at the MS require a replacement of the entire MS?

(3) Are the oil lekas from the oil pan and valve cover gasket just require replacement of the gaskets?

Finally, if you want to weigh in on whether this is worth saving if I pay someone else to do the work, I'm sure my wife (and a couple of my neighbors) would love any answers that started with "No."

Thanks for any help anyone can provide! Really appreciate it.

 

re:

* oil leaking from the head gasket - usually not what leaks from them, but possible
* oil leaking from the oil pan - tighten 80 bolts and/or replace gasket - if you take it off also clean pickup screen, renew pickup tube seal, and secure two bolts with Locktite.
* oil leaking at valve cover gasket - buy 8mm 12 point 1/4 inch drive socket or a slim downed 3/8 socket, snug every oil change.
* power steering fluid leaking - Lucas PS fluid additive
* brake fluid leaking at master cyliner - tighten, may have to replace.
* waterpump leaking - replace water pump and viscous fan clutch on same afternoon, new gaskets. If leak is from pump it will wobble and eat metal. Replacing pump without clutch is asking for problems.

Most Rovers have some mminor leaks, and many times it is easier and cheaper to top them off every Saturday when you do the underhood inspection. As for paying others to fix, the wallet will be emptied rapidly.

Squealing when turning is pump starving for fluid. Don't hold at extreme limits. Try the Lucas, worked for me.

Many owners get to this point and decide to become DIY mechanics, or sell and move on. Usually when you become a DIY person you look for other thngs to do at same time (like thermostat and coolant flush and water pump/clutch).

Keep an eye on coolant levels, because with the factory heat gauge you won't know when oveheating has started until too late.

Having done the head gaskets the larger problem has already been dealt with.

 

Thanks SB! This makes it seem a little more manageable. On the power steering fluid leak, do you think the Lucas product will have a chance of working if I'm already using MaxLife with leak stop? I guess it is worth a shot. Is there anyplace else the PS fluid can be leaking from because the reservoir doesn't seem that low, but the fluid is leaking and the squeeling continues.

One other thing is that my Three Amigos lights have been on for awhile now. When I got the new cat converter installed, the lights went off and would only come on after about 30 miles of use. Since the PS leak, the lights come on very quickly. Could this be the fluid getting into the sensors, causing the Three Amigo trigger?

Thanks again!

 

Thanks again SB. I've printed out your response and am working my way through getting everything I need.

I purchased the Lucas additive and added all 12 ounces to my PS fluid reservoir. This hasn't had any effect on the leak. Would this lead me to look more at the hose as the more likely culprit, or should I not make any assumptions based on the Lucas not working?

Thanks again!

 

Certainly look at the hose. Leak stop products work by swelling what is left of the seals, and making fluid more viscous. A leak that did not change may be a hose fitting. Any reduction in leak is not a forever fix.

 

I would start by degreasing the motor so that you can find and track these leaks yourself.
A quarter car wash and a couple cans of degreaser should get you started.
Then get a good flash light and an inspection mirror and go to town tracing them.
SM is right after degreasing you should go over the truck and tighten everything you can get a wrench on.
It will most likely save you a got of time replacing gaskets that don't need to be replaced just tightened.
Did you have the water pump replaced?