Oil questions
 

I have been using Rotella T6 for about 4 years now without much issue. I used Mobile 1 once and started to leak.

Question # 1 should I continue to use T6 or switch to something new?


2nd set questions. I replaced my Tranny with Valvoline MaxLife ATF while back. This morning the Transmission light came of and on few times. Now this could be one of the 2 sensors.

I have the filter and seal I bought while back. I want to go ahead that change the transmission oil just to eliminate that possibility.

Questions;

1. How difficult is it do it your self?
2. Should i stick with same ATF ? or something you suggest?
3. How many quarter of ATF we need ?
4. is there a step by step instruction?

Appreciate your help in advance.

I can't tell you which motor oil to use but why switch it up now? Everybody has different opinions and preferences on motor oil but I can do you 1-better and give you a direction on how to choose the motor oil that works best with your specific application.

1. Your disco is a flat-tappet camshaft V8; it's a very old, outdated design and requires certain minerals to aid in that camshaft function and life span. It's called Zinc and you need an oil with a healthy concentration of that.
2. You also need high level of detergents in it like calcium and magnesium to keep it clean and the oil passages freed up.
3. The oil pump design of the rover v8 benefits from a heavy weight oil and provides higher oil pressure.

The diesel-rated motor oils in most cases will be the way to go because they aren't held to the same EPA standards as the 5w/10w/30w motor oils which have all but eliminated zinc and phosphorous because they are bad for the environment and their properties are no longer required in modern engines. There is a lot to it so you should do some research so that you can learn all about it and use what you believe to be the best for your engine. A number of people have been using Rotella 15w-40 in these D1-D2s for a long time with success.
Most have learned to stay away from the synthetics like the T6 for example for various reasons but I read where more and more D2 owners are using it. If I were really concerned about motor oils I would put in the leg-work and get some facts starting with other D2 owners that have had engine failure in the bottom end. I would record as much data possible and do a comparison to see if there is any coorelation I'm engine failures and motor oil used in those engines just for example.
Bob is the oil guy.com is a site where you can browse the forums and find the contents of all the different motor oils on the market.

About your transmission. When was the last fluid and filter replacement? You didn't mention that. Before you go dropping the pan, check the fluid fill level. There is a procedure for that so that you don't get a false positive so read the workshop manual carefully. If its low, add and try it out. If you have more than 30k since the last change go ahead and do the fluid and filter. Which warning lamps flashed? The M&S or the gear symbol? You need to stop by the auto parts store and have the codes read out from the OBD and post those results here or do a search and find what the diagnostic is. That's is always the starting point to solve problems or find out what is going wrong with the vehicle.

Did you not do the trans service yourself the last time? One person can do it, most everybody on the forum has one time or another. It requires a top-shelf transfer pump though. Don't get a cheap and/or cheesy model. Have the proper torque bits and Allen wrenches on hand so that you don't strip any screws. Make sure the top (fill) screw comes loose before you drain the fluid out of the bottom one.

BTW, you will need 5-quarts of trans fluid. Get the same kind used before.
My transmission light also flashes when the battery gets weak. If I don't crank the engine for 2-3 days, or I have the radio and lights on for hours and hours it will flash and I reset with a diagnostic computer and it doesn't happen again until the next time. When it gets really cold out this can affect the battery power too, as I have learned.

Here are your instructions. This will come in very handy
land rover service factory manual RAVE download land rover resource, service manual, workshop factory manual, download, rave, vehicles including discovery, series, defender, range rover, freelander, LR3, Handbooks, Catalog, Catalogue, Land Rover Inte

Wow! thank you for taking so much time to write this. The truck has been the most stable of all my vehicles. I have 3 BMW's they are pain in the neck.
I have not done any work on the LR for a long time although i have few issues that does not stop me from driving (3 Amigos - yes I have done the Option B and still comes back)

I decided next few weeks I have some time and do some TLC. Truck has less than 90k on it. Truck was in the storage for 4 years while i was on a overseas assignment

1. the Tranny oil and filter was changed by a shop - i dont remember may be 25k on it. But i have the filters/Gaskets and I want to change just for the hell of it just so I feel better.

2. Motor Oil does have very minor leak on the Valve cover and other seals. I did the Valve cover 6 month ago but I screwed up by adding snot stuff - bad idea! I will have to redo that - Gaskets are on the way.

3. I read here people are using Rotella T Triple Protection 15W-40 - not synth. I wanted to switch from Synth to Dino just to see how well it does. Any suggestions?


Thank you again.

Rotella was recently reformulated and there is conflicting information on how much zinc it contains, if it contains any at all. At this point I would pretty much run any dino 10w40 and just add a zinc supplement. I'll probably still stick to the Rotella and add the supplement.

I never thought about oil long time before, but I switched to synthetic when my 1st disco hit 12K miles. I still use synthetic until today 155K miles after. I just read this from (your mechanic) website.
What Are the Risks of Switching to Synthetic Oil in Older Cars?


If you've heard about the benefits of synthetic motor oil in vehicles, you may be ready to switch. This type of oil offers many advantages over petroleum-based motor oil, which appeals to drivers and car owners. The most important advantage is that it extends the life of your engine better than regular oil. However, there are some risks you should be aware of if you own an older vehicle.
What is synthetic oil?

First, you should understand the difference between synthetic oil and regular oil. Regular oil is made from crude oil and refined through a special process. Synthetic oil is made from other raw materials and may or may not contain some petroleum products, depending on the manufacturer. It's created through a man-made process instead of being refined from crude oil.
Synthetic oil offers several advantages of regular oil. It's less susceptible to temperature changes and does a better job of protecting the various components in the engine. It also provides more stability in cold temperatures and is more effective at cleaning out dust and debris from the engine.
Is synthetic oil safe?

In the past, warnings were given about switching to synthetic oil because it could harm the engine. The reason for this warning was that many synthetic oils were made of esters, which are organic compounds mixed with alcohol. This combination was often hard on the seals in the engine system and would cause them to wear down and result in leaks.
The way synthetic oils are made has changed over the years, and today they are as safe in vehicles as regular oil. In fact, your vehicle won’t even notice the difference if you maintain the same weight of oil regardless of whether it is petroleum-based or synthetic.
The one exception is for its use in older vehicles, especially those with high mileage. However, that doesn’t mean you can't ever switch if you have an older car.
Using synthetic oils in older models

When using the term “older” to refer to cars, it means those manufactured before 1990 or so. The risk with these models is that the seals and other components often aren’t as tight as with newer models. The synthetic oil could leak out and the vehicle could burn or lose oil. What this means for you is that you would be replacing your oil and having to monitor the levels more often. If you didn’t, you would risk damaging the engine or other components. Because synthetic oil does a better job of cleaning out sludge, it could remove deposits that are acting as seals.
It’s not accurate to say that you should never use a synthetic oil in an older car. If the car has been maintained and is in excellent running condition, the synthetic oil may protect the vehicle and prolong its life.
Signs of problems with synthetic oil in older cars

If you decide to switch to synthetic oil for your older car, talk to a professional mechanic first. He may want to check over your vehicle before advising you. If you make the switch to synthetic oil on your own, you will notice oil leaking out from the vehicle if there is a problem. You will need to have a mechanic look at it and make any necessary repairs or replacements. It's important to read the owner’s manual or talk to a mechanic about any changes you want to make with the type of oil you are using to protect your older model vehicle and ensure its long life and continued performance.

HERE: from Consumer Reports
When should you consider synthetic oil?
Although more costly, synthetic has its advantages

Many automakers require owners to use synthetic motor oil in their cars’ engines. This is because synthetic oil has some advantages over conventional motor oil. It’s designed to be more effective at:

• Resisting break-down, and thus lasts longer than mineral oil
• Withstanding high temperatures
• Flowing in cold temperatures, thus reducing engine wear during frigid startups.

However, synthetic motor oil can cost two to four times as much as regular oil. So unless your owner's manual specifies synthetic, you don’t need it. But Consumer Reports’ chief mechanic says there are some situations where synthetic oil’s resistance to breakdown can help prolong the life of an engine.
If you make lots of short trips, standard motor oil may never get warm enough to burn off moisture and impurities. That could hasten the breakdown of conventional oil. Also, if you live in a region with very cold winters or very hot summers, or if you use your vehicle for towing or hauling heavy material, synthetic oil won’t break down as quickly. While synthetic generally holds up better and can serve for more miles, it is important to not extend oil changes beyond the time interval recommended by the manufacturer—typically six months or a year.
Another good use for synthetic oil is as a salve for older engines prone to sludge buildup. This gunky residue can block oil passages and lead to a quick death of an engine. In the early 2000s, several engines from Chrysler, Toyota, and Volkswagen, among others, were especially prone to sludge buildup. This sludge forms when oil breaks down. Synthetic oil would be beneficial in those engines, as it is less likely to form troublesome sludge.
Using synthetic in these situations will prolong your oil life and require fewer changes. That’s a major benefit to the environment, as used motor oil is a major source of toxic waste in water. Your pocketbook will also thank you.

If it doesn't have ZDDwhatever I'm going to be real upset. Is this confirmed?! I run this in everything from cars to 18 wheelers and it has always been a great oil. Why the hell would they change the formula anyway? Geez. Zinc additive is just another expense. Ugh.

Nothing confirmed. I've seen from one person that called a rep and said that they had increased zddp levels and I heard from another that called a rep who said there was no longer any zddp. I'm waiting for someone to test it and post it up on BITOG before I say one way or another and until then I'm adding supplements.

There's also this option (http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/z-rod-10w-30-synthetic-motor-oil/), but d*mn that's a lot more expensive. Might as well buy Royal Purple at that point.

FYI,
Fist thread hear on the "new" oil the OP called the tech dept. The rep mentioned in another forum that said none was a oil or "sales" rep.
......

I guess I should find out soon. The oil field is ramping back up and I don't want our old Engines to get older.