new Rad is about $228 shipped from RockAuto Parts Catalog.

I would put in the 180 degree thermostat FIRST before you do anything else and then see how it goes.

 

I wanted to follow up- sorry its been a while: Block tested fine with Autozone loaner exhaust tester- Motorad 439-180 thermostat came yesterday (funny that Amazon says it wont fit my truck, but all reviewers state that it does)

I am debating on wether to hold off and replace radiator and stat at once OR stat first to see if this was my issue- I still suspect KW block/HG crap forever doomed my radiator that was new as of March '12...AND summers here in FLA can be mid 90's ambient, while my prob started in winter 60's temps

A sincere thanks as always

 

Do the stat. Compare temps with a scanner or Ultra Gauge before and after. Why keep putting the motor over hickory coals and slow roasting....

 

Yep.
Do that stat now.
Try to catch the antifreeze in a pot when the lower hose comes off and just put it back in.
I just did my 180 degree stat two weeks ago
HUGE HUGE difference.

 

It's aboput the same price for a Nissens from Lucky8 also, plus you get to support a business that's part of the Rover community. I really doubt that any shop could truly fully flush that crap out of the radiator but as others have suggested, try replacing the stat first.

 

Flush is not rear practical on a D2, passages too small, plastic tanks too fragile. And while a melted zip tie may seal up a tank leak and get you home from the trail, once the tanks crack they have learned a new trick that will be repeated.

Flushing needs to be preventative service. Done periodically to extend the life of the system. I forecast that we will have LR3 owners with same issues, because Rover told them to change the coolant every 150,000 or 10 years.

D1 with metal tanks that can be unsoldered is a different matter. I will always regret the time I left the boneyard without that new radiator I had been admiring in a D1. Being a raw noob, I had no idea that was $600 sitting there....

 

Have any of you installed coolant filters off of the tank or at any other location? Cheers,

 

Stat installed, water wetter added & finished with first bleed- Still have faint slosh behind dash, so will rebleed in the morning and report back with news

 

You can also drive the front of the truck on two ramps to get it up on an angle while raising the tank... so that bubbles in the system can slide up and out instead of getting trapped under ridges and angled spots in the core and other parts... you can also squeeze the hoses gently at the angles and high spots, it causes the bubbles to move and be caught in the current and get pulled back out instead of resting.

 

UPDATE: System bled perfectly and no waterfall sound- Ultragauge plugged in and warmed up in driveway to 188 (ambient temp this afternoon is 69) After 2 mins of driving went to 190... after 5 mins to 194. Then took it on 5 mile hwy drive where it went up to 210...got off hwy and put AC on full blast cold- temp jumped to 217 then after a few mins went to 221. got nervous and turned heat on and was home in 3 mins.

confirmed that belt route is correct & aux fan is pulling in air correct way. Looks like last resort is new Radiator- Thanks again to all those who've helped so far!