Overheating problem?
#61
02-01-2017, 06:32 PM
4th Gear
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Brooklyn New York
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Hi,
My car is a 1995 range rover P38 and I have the same problem. I recently changed my water pump and my car started overheating with the bottom hose cold, top hose warm. Overheating was not an issue before i replaced the water pump as a maintenance. So far, i replaced the thermostat, rodded the radiator and my car still overheating. the only thing i can think of now is maybe air locked in the system because the coolant seems like its not circulating. I tried bleeding the system but don't know if it was done properly or maybe air in the system is not the problem. Need help on what to check for next and the proper way to bleed a 1995 P38. thanks.
My car is a 1995 range rover P38 and I have the same problem. I recently changed my water pump and my car started overheating with the bottom hose cold, top hose warm. Overheating was not an issue before i replaced the water pump as a maintenance. So far, i replaced the thermostat, rodded the radiator and my car still overheating. the only thing i can think of now is maybe air locked in the system because the coolant seems like its not circulating. I tried bleeding the system but don't know if it was done properly or maybe air in the system is not the problem. Need help on what to check for next and the proper way to bleed a 1995 P38. thanks.
#62
02-01-2017, 10:32 PM
#64
02-02-2017, 03:17 PM
Pro Wrench
#65
02-02-2017, 10:01 PM
What are you talking about? This is a forum to discuss problems and issues we are having with our cars. Sorry we are not graced with your superior knowledge, but with a little effort we can all get there some day. Looking back on this thread i see absolutely no input from you what so ever up until now. And what you said is of no help at all.
Last edited by slvrdisco01; 02-02-2017 at 10:08 PM.
#66
02-02-2017, 10:25 PM
There is nothing wrong with asking question's, YES that's what forums are for, we all learn from each other's different experiences, & not make the same mistake.
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((But at same time all forums contain mostly right & some wrong information's as well, so be cautious & make the correct judgement,)
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((But at same time all forums contain mostly right & some wrong information's as well, so be cautious & make the correct judgement,)
#68
02-02-2017, 10:38 PM
Not sure if this helps much but my experience with air in the system us not extreme like others have claimed here.
ive had air in my system for weeks now and i hear the waterfall on acceleration. Temps are still 188 while cruising, same as when i had the system fully bled. Yes air can have an effect but it needs to be a lot of air to make a significant difference to temps. (In my experience lol)
And ignore Chevelle. He just comes on here once every few months to tell everyone how They cant bleed their coolant systems properly...
ive had air in my system for weeks now and i hear the waterfall on acceleration. Temps are still 188 while cruising, same as when i had the system fully bled. Yes air can have an effect but it needs to be a lot of air to make a significant difference to temps. (In my experience lol)
And ignore Chevelle. He just comes on here once every few months to tell everyone how They cant bleed their coolant systems properly...
#69
02-03-2017, 05:55 AM
Pro Wrench
Not sure if this helps much but my experience with air in the system us not extreme like others have claimed here.
ive had air in my system for weeks now and i hear the waterfall on acceleration. Temps are still 188 while cruising, same as when i had the system fully bled. Yes air can have an effect but it needs to be a lot of air to make a significant difference to temps. (In my experience lol)
And ignore Chevelle. He just comes on here once every few months to tell everyone how They cant bleed their coolant systems properly...
ive had air in my system for weeks now and i hear the waterfall on acceleration. Temps are still 188 while cruising, same as when i had the system fully bled. Yes air can have an effect but it needs to be a lot of air to make a significant difference to temps. (In my experience lol)
And ignore Chevelle. He just comes on here once every few months to tell everyone how They cant bleed their coolant systems properly...
Changing parts, wasting all this money, time for what? 5 degrees?
If the temp is spiking then bleed it again.
And again
Or raise up the front of the truck and do it the easy way.
I just helped another guy 2 weeks ago with the same problem.
These threads are becoming comical.
D2'S originally had a t pipe without a bleed screw. Then they upgraded to add a bleed screw. Now, we see people putting in cast iron and copper pipes without bleed screws that aren't even the proper size. You guys go BACKWARDS.
Dave. If you hear water moving there's air in it. Just because you do it once or twice doesn't mean you got it all or any.
Dislodge the air.
Just because you open the bleed screw and no air comes out doesn't mean you got the air out.
And I come here allot, my account wasn't accessible because my military email address changed and I forgot my password, fixed it yesterday.
#70
02-03-2017, 06:54 AM
Pro Wrench
Sorry for the double post.
This guy gets it.
Perhaps the 180 stat was made for warmer climates and it just caught on. Or maybe Dave is just correct?
Again, Dave gets it.
I never go above 201 on the UG and I don't have the 180 stat. Usually sits 194. Over 200,000 miles and no tick either, I HAD the tick, but when I did my HG's I found that the one rocker oil hole was clogged.
Applause Dave.
Then you need maintenance.
Are you 100% sure you've bled the system completely as per Rave?
Remember these engines were designed to run up to 220 degrees. I would not be afraid of it getting past 215 on a test basis especially if you may still have air in the system.
What you need to do is see if it plateaus out at 220ish or keeps climbing to the point that the idiot gauge on the dash climbs up. If that happens then yes shut it down. Otherwise this could just be indicating you have not bled out the air completely.
Recently I had to rebleed due to changing out the leaking throttle body heater gasket. Initially with air in the system I saw it creep up past 215 but it did quit climbing. Took me about 4 days of cold bleeding and adding coolant (to replace the air) to get ALL of the air out.
You would be surprised at how little air in the system it takes to raise your temps 10 degrees. in my case, it was less than a table spoon of coolant! I know this because I tried for the first time the technique of adding coolant through the bleed screw (while engine cold) Each morning I had to add less. Each day I watched the temps as I had a 13 mile half stop and go, half freeway drive each day.
By the 4th morning I opened the screw, heard a small bit of air escaping and had to add about a teaspoon of coolant, and that day the temps were completely back to normal. in my case 188 cruise, 197 hot idle.
Remember these engines were designed to run up to 220 degrees. I would not be afraid of it getting past 215 on a test basis especially if you may still have air in the system.
What you need to do is see if it plateaus out at 220ish or keeps climbing to the point that the idiot gauge on the dash climbs up. If that happens then yes shut it down. Otherwise this could just be indicating you have not bled out the air completely.
Recently I had to rebleed due to changing out the leaking throttle body heater gasket. Initially with air in the system I saw it creep up past 215 but it did quit climbing. Took me about 4 days of cold bleeding and adding coolant (to replace the air) to get ALL of the air out.
You would be surprised at how little air in the system it takes to raise your temps 10 degrees. in my case, it was less than a table spoon of coolant! I know this because I tried for the first time the technique of adding coolant through the bleed screw (while engine cold) Each morning I had to add less. Each day I watched the temps as I had a 13 mile half stop and go, half freeway drive each day.
By the 4th morning I opened the screw, heard a small bit of air escaping and had to add about a teaspoon of coolant, and that day the temps were completely back to normal. in my case 188 cruise, 197 hot idle.
This guy gets it.
I wouldn't let it get over 200. Even with the factory 180 Tstat and some air included, it shouldn't hit 200f. The engine in mine made ticking noise at temps over 200 so I would avoid that if at all possible. And although LR orig designed the system to run @ 205f or whatever, you see they made a 180 Tstat so obviously warranty claims from overheating made them think better of their initial calculations.
Perhaps the 180 stat was made for warmer climates and it just caught on. Or maybe Dave is just correct?
The 180 stat was made for the TD5 diesel engine. Never for the V8.
I still stand by the fact that these engines were designed to run way hot for emissions reasons, to burn every single bit of fuel and byproduct.
You are not going to damage the block until you are over 240. Sure once you get it dialed in, no need to be over 200 much except it will happen in hot weather on hills, etc.
Literally these are designed to hot idle at temps up to and above 220. It wasn't a problem until other components failed leading to many of the common cooling system failures. Yes it is running on the hairy edge but that is why we change to the 180 stat. Which by the way is totally against factory protocol. Even my LR indy guy put a stock stat in it when he did my head gaskets. I could not talk him into going against factory spec... So i made that change myself soon after and tossed the factory stat.
My theory is that so many of these made 100k miles with the factory stat running up into the 220's regularly that this might be the reason we have HG issues at around 100k. Running cooler may and should help with the longevity of HG's in the future.
Regardless you still need to find out if you have air in the system or your problem is mechanical in nature.
I still stand by the fact that these engines were designed to run way hot for emissions reasons, to burn every single bit of fuel and byproduct.
You are not going to damage the block until you are over 240. Sure once you get it dialed in, no need to be over 200 much except it will happen in hot weather on hills, etc.
Literally these are designed to hot idle at temps up to and above 220. It wasn't a problem until other components failed leading to many of the common cooling system failures. Yes it is running on the hairy edge but that is why we change to the 180 stat. Which by the way is totally against factory protocol. Even my LR indy guy put a stock stat in it when he did my head gaskets. I could not talk him into going against factory spec... So i made that change myself soon after and tossed the factory stat.
My theory is that so many of these made 100k miles with the factory stat running up into the 220's regularly that this might be the reason we have HG issues at around 100k. Running cooler may and should help with the longevity of HG's in the future.
Regardless you still need to find out if you have air in the system or your problem is mechanical in nature.
Again, Dave gets it.
bravo!
I had a guy flame me on a different board because of how the inline Tstat mod looks; multiple splice & hose clamps. He claims that his factory 180-deg stat has never let coolant temps go above 180-something. I'm thinking hmmm...either this guy has the sweetest cooling system ever to behold a rover V8 OR (more likely) inhabits a cool, rural environment & never turned the AC on. The LR system by-design, can't hold a cool, steady operating temp; it was never intended to.
I had a guy flame me on a different board because of how the inline Tstat mod looks; multiple splice & hose clamps. He claims that his factory 180-deg stat has never let coolant temps go above 180-something. I'm thinking hmmm...either this guy has the sweetest cooling system ever to behold a rover V8 OR (more likely) inhabits a cool, rural environment & never turned the AC on. The LR system by-design, can't hold a cool, steady operating temp; it was never intended to.
I never go above 201 on the UG and I don't have the 180 stat. Usually sits 194. Over 200,000 miles and no tick either, I HAD the tick, but when I did my HG's I found that the one rocker oil hole was clogged.
I have to say Chubbs, I am not trying to be argumentative with you at all. Just to be clear... strictly for testing purposes this guy is not going to harm his engine by going over 200, or over 215 for a very short duration.
I agree keep it under 200 for everyday purposes.
The original poster needs to diagnose whether he has air in his system or a mechanical issue. Virtually every one of these ran up to 220 for most of their lives until guys like us started figuring out cooler is better. One more time for testing is not going to be the end of the world as long as you don't let it get away from you. Got to keep an eagle eye on it for sure.
I agree keep it under 200 for everyday purposes.
The original poster needs to diagnose whether he has air in his system or a mechanical issue. Virtually every one of these ran up to 220 for most of their lives until guys like us started figuring out cooler is better. One more time for testing is not going to be the end of the world as long as you don't let it get away from you. Got to keep an eagle eye on it for sure.
Applause Dave.
dave. my engine will "tick," it will make "ticking" sounds...at temps over 200f. and mine isn't the only one. I don't know what the ticking noise is, and I don't want to know so I stay far away from it. something happens at temps over 200f with the materials used in these motors and its well-documented in this forum, I have both personally experienced it & read the accounts, first-hand of other owners who had the same issue and were here asking about it. what is there to argue about?
Then you need maintenance.