Good evening all,

I have used this forum extensively for work on my new-to-me DII and greatly appreciate all of the knowledge here. One issue that I can't seem to figure out is the coolant leak from my expansion tank.

Initially the leak came from the bottom of the tank where the nipple that connects to the throttle return pipe cracked. I purchased a new tank from AB, a new connecting hose for the return pipe, and four new worm-driven clamps.

After all of that was installed, and the system bled, I was rather dismayed to see coolant still leaking down the return pipe from under the expansion tank.

I tightened the clamps as far as I could, but I'm concerned about cracking the nipple or breaking the return pipe.

I'm sure you all are familiar with the location, but just in case I attached a photo.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Michael

 

There was a post recently about a tank that was leaking in this location. Some used JB Weld and other patch methods and some advocated just replacing the tank and cap with a new version. Apparently the DEXCOOL pink coolant is falling out of popularity with LR owners and many are going back to green. If you switch out your tank and cap-might be a good time to consider a full fluid flush and get eveything all cleaned up inside and out. The OE tanks are near 200 bucks, the aftermarket ones are less than 50 bucks. Pick your poison and get back on the road.Enjoy your truck!!

 

Thanks MirraJumper. I just replaced the tank, the connecting hose, and installed new worm-drive clamps. I've read nearly every thread and I can't find anything about this.

I assume I just need to tighten the clamps further but am concerned about cracking the new tank or throttle return pipe.

 

They are easy to overtighten and ruin the new hose or pipe. They just need to be snug enough without causing deformity or damage. There are lots of threads about using a pressure tester, pumping to 15-20 lbs and letting it rest for as long as 30 min. There is also lots of advice on how to properly bleed coolant system. Done properly, you will not need to do anyything heroic. IE.......bleed system cold and be prepared to do it a few times. Pay attention to bleeder screw location and dont be over zealous with its plastic construction - the housing can be broken with too much force. Also, listen inside pass side fire wall area (behind glove bo)x for classic " waterfall " noise. Although there are serious conditions that cause this noise - stick to the basics and dont jump on the fear bandwagon yet. You would need to rebleed and get ALL of the air out.
The coolant leaks on these cars seems to be the #1 problem for LR owners. The overheating that results in some cars can cause the real issues.Reread the archives and you will see some very detailed responses ( along with part #'s) that outlined thermostat type, complete hose replacement kits,coolant temp sensors.And be prepared to read many pages on the DO's and Don'ts of switching from Dexcool to universal coolant to green coolant and all the theories.

 

OK, good to know on the over-tightening. Regarding the pressure testing, would that really cause it to leak out of the connecting hose that I just installed? I assume it is simply an issue with my installation...

I'll keep watching, seems to be a very slow leak but it is still quite frustrating.

Thanks again MirraJumper.

 

As you read the archive posts, you will discover detailed cases from Disco Mike and others about the coolant system pressures and the failures of these overflow tanks and caps. With cars still running DEXCOOL (G12 spec from Audi or Porsche)there are documented cases of failure in the oddest of parts. Personally, I have had leaks that were temperature sensitive and hidden. The smallest tear or crack becomes a big deal when the system is loaded up with heat and pressure after highway driving.
Keep doing what you are doing- get things cleaned up. I prefer simple green mixed with water in a garden sprayer wand assembly. Keep driving and remember that system should only be bleed out when it is cold. Get the heater cranked up and car to idle in driveway. Do you hear water fall noise behind glove box inside the car?
From your description, something sounds like it has hairline crack in it. Some people swear by JB weld for expoxy repair of bottle bottom. Others will say spring for some new parts.
Dont give up and dont let LR run low on coolant and overheat!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!It only takes one long highway exit when overheated to ruin your night and your checkbook.
So clean,clean,clean and tidy things up. Get a pressure tester which attaches to the top of the coolant tank.Once attached, you hand pump to 15-20 lbs and wait for 30 min.The guage will show if any pressure is leaking out.Then you go on a hunt and look for hissing sounds and trails of coolant.Dont forget to remove the plastic shroud on top of the motor that cover top of radiator and fan. There is a plastic coolant line that runs across the header panel that is prone to cracking/breaking/leaking as soon as you "give it the stinky eye".
Good luck and post up victory moment when things are all set.

 

gentleman driver, pull it apart clean it up, buy a new hose clamp and some black RTV. put a little black rtv on the tube coming off the recovery bottle. tighten the clamp and let it sit over night. it should be fine in the morning

 

Thanks all - just spoke with lr2001silver and he thinks it may be the original cap not releasing pressure and the coolant is seeping out the weakest point. Makes sense.

Already have a new cap, just didn't replace the original. I am going to try that and report back.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Michael

 

I just finished replacing the same part because of a leak in the same place. When I pulled the old expansion tank I noticed that the plastic nipple was plugged up with some orange gel stuff to the point that it blocked the coolant flow and building pressure in turn causing the leak.

I flushed the cooling system, replaced with green coolant, and installed a new expansion tank and the problem is gone.

You may just need to tighten the clamp more if you don't think that you have a blockage. If you can still move the the hose left to right while on the nipple then you need to tighten it more. You need to snug it up until you can't turn it any more.

Happy Thanksgiving

 

Thanks to lr2001silver the leak is fixed. I replaced the cap and it is now releasing pressure and no longer leaking out of the connecting hose.

I should have realized this before when the coolant level in the expansion tank did not fluctuate between cold and operating temp. Now when up to temp the coolant fills up nearly the entire tank, which tells me the pressure building up before was finding a way out through the throttle return pipe connecting hose.

This was also most likely the cause of the tank cracking in the first place. Even the LR dealer with the PO tried replacing other parts to fix the problem when all it needed was a new cap. Thanks lr2001silver!