Please Help: Rear Propshaft removal
 

In the process of installing the new rotoflex kit. Currently stumped with the small cylinder piece that's located with the rear propshaft. Cant get it out for the life of me. Just spent afew hours at JiffyLube (mmy work) after hours trying to remove this one part but even with their tools the piece would not come free. As a temporary measure I completely removed the rear shaft and engaged the high diff lock. We just had a winter storm and the roads are bad and I cannot even make it up the large hill to my home so had to park the truck down the road..... See video for more details.

110109 001 - YouTube

Also I screwed up because I forgot to marke the exact location of the driveshaft before I removed it! So once I get the centering stud out of the shaft, how should I go about re-installing the driveshaft?

From what I understand, removal of the centering stud requires the use of a fire wrench, or (probably better) an inductive heater.

I hear that either red or green threadlocker was used during assembly.

Here we go again. Dude, I posted a link for you regarding the removal of the centering bushing. Do I need to post it again? It's bad enough that you can't be bothered to use search to find these answers, but then when they are handed to you, you can't be bothered to read them? This is getting old: Rear Prop Shaft Bush - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum

Thanks for the link. Ive regained confidence and will try once more to chisel away at the last remaining ring of the centering bushing. Now regarding the re-install of the rear propshaft, does it really matter how I install it back in? Considering that I forgot to mark the specific position it was in before I removed it?

Shouldn't matter. It's best to get the u-joint back on the transfer case the way it came off but given that there's a u-joint on one end and a piece of rubber on the other it's not as critical on this shaft.

and make sure you install the rotoflex in the correct direction. and use new nuts.

I have found no indication regarding the correct direction for the rotoflex part. Could you elaborate? Because I did finally manage to remove the centering bushing thing, installed the new one and re-attached the propshaft to the truck. But if I did do it wrong then I will fix it tomorrow. and of course I used the new nuts and washers. Unfortunatly I forgot to install 7 washers! Kit came with 12 so I have to remove it tomorrow anyways to add the washers...

The splines only line up one way. If you have to hammer it together
you didn't get it right. Keep moving it one spline at a time until it
slides on(just like it slid off)

Guys,
Forgive this perhaps obvious question.
I am more of a systems troubleshooter than a drive line guy.

With that said --

Is there a way to get a drive shaft with absolutely no rotoflexes?

Those seem like a "cheap" u-joint.

Why are there Rotoflexes and not U-Joints on a shaft?

Was it a way to decrease weight and just be cheap?
Or is there an advantage to a Rotoflex vs a U joint?

Seems the Discovery I has the advantage in this case?