Possible front propshaft failure?
#1
Possible front propshaft failure?
I've had this for 2 years I got it from autozone for right around 350 it has a limited lifetime warranty. The last one the knuckle had its knuckle almost fall apart. I replaced it just in time as it vibrated like crazy around 30ish mph. This forum helped me figure that one out. Now I'm back again and I'm pretty sure this shaft joint went as well. I guess my disco is hungry for shafts.
I think this seal should be more enclosed. I can see right in! It has been chirping/sqealing like crazy! It wasn't driven long just down the driveway and to the corner before I put it back in the garage. Here's this pic:
Front propshaft knuckle
Last edited by monakey; 03-03-2017 at 07:45 PM.
#2
Are you asking a question or making a statement?.. What do you mean by ‘the knuckle had its knuckle almost fall apart’. The yoke? Do you have greasable zerks on your U-joints? If so, have you been greasing them? I would think that Autozone would carry decent driveshafts that would last longer than a couple of years. I suppose if you’re in a hot climate though, excessive heat could add to the wear and tear on the parts and dry them out faster. Fortunately I haven’t experienced that ‘little’ problem.
If you find that your disco is indeed hungry for shafts, I would advise you to go past go, collect that $200 in limited lifetime warranties and try, try again. Because Monakey, that appears to be the name of the game with these unique, quirky, propshaft 'flailing' beasts.
That is.. if you're certain the propshaft is the issue, the noise is in fact coming from the under body of the Disco and is not the result of a drive belt failing.
If you find that your disco is indeed hungry for shafts, I would advise you to go past go, collect that $200 in limited lifetime warranties and try, try again. Because Monakey, that appears to be the name of the game with these unique, quirky, propshaft 'flailing' beasts.
That is.. if you're certain the propshaft is the issue, the noise is in fact coming from the under body of the Disco and is not the result of a drive belt failing.
Last edited by colonelmustard; 03-03-2017 at 09:03 PM.
#3
Yeah that was confusing knuckle talk. My apologies
What I meant was the u-joint in the knuckle fell apart and cause a sever wobble/vibration.
My question here is, isn't there supposed to be a seal in that knuckle/yoke? I shouldn't be able to see inside the joint, right?
Thanks again everyone! Thanks colonel!
What I meant was the u-joint in the knuckle fell apart and cause a sever wobble/vibration.
My question here is, isn't there supposed to be a seal in that knuckle/yoke? I shouldn't be able to see inside the joint, right?
Thanks again everyone! Thanks colonel!
#4
#5
Yeah that was confusing knuckle talk. My apologies
What I meant was the u-joint in the knuckle fell apart and cause a sever wobble/vibration.
My question here is, isn't there supposed to be a seal in that knuckle/yoke? I shouldn't be able to see inside the joint, right?
Thanks again everyone! Thanks colonel!
What I meant was the u-joint in the knuckle fell apart and cause a sever wobble/vibration.
My question here is, isn't there supposed to be a seal in that knuckle/yoke? I shouldn't be able to see inside the joint, right?
Thanks again everyone! Thanks colonel!
Discovery 2 TD5 Front Prop Propshaft Shaft Double Cardan Joint Repair Kit OEM | eBay
The shaft you have removed is scrap and a warranty claim. However, you should grease the UJ's every 10K miles as otherwise they are likely to fail with dire consequences, a smashed transmission if the driveshaft breaks completely and flails around.
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#8
That paint (especially on the slip yoke) is total B$! I guess you already know that you need to get the paint off the slip yoke. Don't go nuts with anything abrasive, just use some Goof-Off or paint thinner. As for the Ujoint zerks just get the paint off the nipple with a razor or scotch brite pad. Then while the drive shaft is still off the truck grease the zerks to be sure you can see good flow. If the joints won't take grease on the bench, they won't when installed.
Is that drive shaft a New or Reman? It looks like a A1-Cardone reman.
Is that drive shaft a New or Reman? It looks like a A1-Cardone reman.
#9
That paint (especially on the slip yoke) is total B$! I guess you already know that you need to get the paint off the slip yoke. Don't go nuts with anything abrasive, just use some Goof-Off or paint thinner. As for the Ujoint zerks just get the paint off the nipple with a razor or scotch brite pad. Then while the drive shaft is still off the truck grease the zerks to be sure you can see good flow. If the joints won't take grease on the bench, they won't when installed.
Is that drive shaft a New or Reman? It looks like a A1-Cardone reman.
Is that drive shaft a New or Reman? It looks like a A1-Cardone reman.
#10
Yeah paint came right off the shaft with a nylon putty knife or my fingernail. I used a right angle pick to sort of scrape the zerks and it flaked right off. Just didn't want to do that while under the rover!
It came from autozone with part number 65-9271
Looks like it is/was cardone maybe? Free lifetime can't beat that, plus when I bought it I had a 20% off.
http://m.autozone.com/drivetrain/dri...829159_0_4222/
It came from autozone with part number 65-9271
Looks like it is/was cardone maybe? Free lifetime can't beat that, plus when I bought it I had a 20% off.
http://m.autozone.com/drivetrain/dri...829159_0_4222/
Last edited by monakey; 03-05-2017 at 05:48 PM.