I am setting up my Disco to tow my travel trailer, have searched the old threads and read them. Know what i need and how to do it.

My question is: The factory 9 pin connector behind the taillight, C1481 female from body harness to trailer harness, is a female connector. Is there an identical 9 pin male connector anywhere in the harness that could plug in to the female?

I have a parts truck so I could cut it off, solder up my own trailer harness and plug it right in. No cutting, splicing on the original harness.

I searched thru 705 pages of connectors in the rave but could not find a 9 pin male that would work.

Thoughts?

 

None that I know of. Just cut it off and solder up the wires to a harness and be done with it.

 

Ok, duxlr. That's what I was expecting but thought I would give it a shot.

Thanks

 

Or, use these, then you can remove them later and leave your stock plug.
Dorman/Conduct-Tite 21 pcs. quick splice connector (86503) | Electrical Wire Connector | AutoZone.com_




EDIT: There's actually a version of these we used to call ATT connectors. They have grease in them so after you close them, they are water tight. This will prevent corrosion of the wiring later. I guess you could always grease the ones above, or silicon or shrink wrap.

 

I would encourage anyone to avoid these things. They make a perfect place for the wires to break, plus the area through which the current flows is tiny. If you don't want to solder, then I would use either butt splices or crimp type connector caps if you think you may one day want to put the effort into pulling out your $10 trailer lighting adapter.

 

I understand where you are coming from. I remember hearing about the issues with these. I personally have had good success with them, but maybe that's because I choose the correct size for the job, and I always seal all my connections.

But, having said that, I did solder my Trailer Adapter in directly to the plug, then siliconed and black taped it for a seal. I don't like to do electrical twice if I can avoid it.

Some of the adapters cost upwards of $100, but I agree, I see no reason to remove it in the future. Once it's in there, it's permanant for me.

Here are the two parts I bought and installed for a cheap, nice clean look.
Curt 56146 Curt Converter Modules - I only paid $21, Guess the price went up.

Curt 58300 Curt T-Connector Electrical Kits

Open


Closed

 

Did my 04 quite a few years ago. Remember being told you just cant tap into the wires. The loom kit comes with a small black electrical box. Mini-computer or something. Got my kit for $70 ? at atlantic british. I also have a dash light of a trailer when the trailer wires are commected to trailer, again the computer. Double check before you start cutting. Also a few years after install the ground on the car connector side went intermittent. I cut the ground wire off my flat 4 connector bumper side n grounded it to the fuel hose filler ground stud. Never a problem after that....

 

I picked up that Curt convertor today and an inline fuse holder to power the brake controller. Probably tackle it fri aftnoon.

 

I know I probably should not have, but I pulled the 12v+ AND 12v- directly from the Tow Wiring Plug behind the Tail Light. I figured it was already fused. As a matter of fact, I soldered all my wires directly to that plug. It's the same concept as the OEM plug Land Rover uses.

Only thing I'm missing is the light on the dash lighting up when the trailer is connected. I don't know if there's any other things that causes to happen, or if it's just a reminder for those who don't pull trailers often.

 

I would never use scotch lock connectors except in an emergency repair away from home.
Solder is ok, but you have to be near perfect doing it otherwise you can get cold solder joints. Soldered connectors can also be more prone to vibration fatigue.

My method is uninsulated connectors (in this case butt connectors), a bit of dielectric grease in them, crimped and then adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. I've never had a connection fail, and when cut open years later the conductors are still shiny. But soldered or crimped, don't forget the adhesive lined heat shrink.

You don't want to use a fuse for the brake controller, you should use a self resetting circuit breaker (30amp for my Tekonsha P3). If the fuse blows you've lost your trailer brakes. With a circuit breaker you'll at least have intermittent brakes until you can pull over and fix it.