Rear door (Hatch) actuator: Disco2
#21
10-27-2018, 04:41 PM
Camel Trophy
So, you have three door locks and none of them work, correct. If so, l'd take a test light and make sure you are getting power to the down cycle terminal of the electrical plug and the up cycle terminal. Looking at the diagram, there seems to be two wires in the plug...so...l'd assume one gets power on down command and the other gets power on the up command from switch. Sometimes they use the opposite wire as a ground during the other sides function, example: power to up function and other wire becomes ground...and opposite for down function, or they ground through the housing of the module to the door framework. This lock mechanism should work whether or not the linkage is attached...but...if they are using the door frame as the ground...it will either have to be grounded to a known good ground or mounted in the door frame (assuming the door frame has a good ground).
If you have power, 12 volts, and the lock mechanism still doesn't function properly...you'll have to see if the wires carrying current are in good enough shape to carry enough amperage. Get a head light bulb (9003) and make up two leads and attach one to each terminal of the plug on the bulb. Unplug the harness from the locking mechanism and while having someone activate the switch (up or down), touch one lead to the lock harness terminal (either one) and touch the other lead to a known good ground. If bulb lights up brightly, on both terminals of harness plug...then you know you have sufficient amperage...and wiring harness is good. If light doesn't light up brightly...then you know you have issues up stream.
Brian.
If you have power, 12 volts, and the lock mechanism still doesn't function properly...you'll have to see if the wires carrying current are in good enough shape to carry enough amperage. Get a head light bulb (9003) and make up two leads and attach one to each terminal of the plug on the bulb. Unplug the harness from the locking mechanism and while having someone activate the switch (up or down), touch one lead to the lock harness terminal (either one) and touch the other lead to a known good ground. If bulb lights up brightly, on both terminals of harness plug...then you know you have sufficient amperage...and wiring harness is good. If light doesn't light up brightly...then you know you have issues up stream.
Brian.
#22
10-27-2018, 08:04 PM
Recovery Vehicle
Yep and the lock rod which attaches similarly. If they are connected correctly you can rule out mechanical/linkage issues then. If you have some doors that lock/unlock and the non functioning doors you can hear them trying to work, It sounds like your issue is like mine where the motor has gone bad.
Last edited by Sandman614; 10-27-2018 at 11:12 PM.
#23
10-28-2018, 01:26 AM
So, you have three door locks and none of them work, correct. If so, l'd take a test light and make sure you are getting power to the down cycle terminal of the electrical plug and the up cycle terminal. Looking at the diagram, there seems to be two wires in the plug...so...l'd assume one gets power on down command and the other gets power on the up command from switch. Sometimes they use the opposite wire as a ground during the other sides function, example: power to up function and other wire becomes ground...and opposite for down function, or they ground through the housing of the module to the door framework. This lock mechanism should work whether or not the linkage is attached...but...if they are using the door frame as the ground...it will either have to be grounded to a known good ground or mounted in the door frame (assuming the door frame has a good ground).
If you have power, 12 volts, and the lock mechanism still doesn't function properly...you'll have to see if the wires carrying current are in good enough shape to carry enough amperage. Get a head light bulb (9003) and make up two leads and attach one to each terminal of the plug on the bulb. Unplug the harness from the locking mechanism and while having someone activate the switch (up or down), touch one lead to the lock harness terminal (either one) and touch the other lead to a known good ground. If bulb lights up brightly, on both terminals of harness plug...then you know you have sufficient amperage...and wiring harness is good. If light doesn't light up brightly...then you know you have issues up stream.
Brian.
If you have power, 12 volts, and the lock mechanism still doesn't function properly...you'll have to see if the wires carrying current are in good enough shape to carry enough amperage. Get a head light bulb (9003) and make up two leads and attach one to each terminal of the plug on the bulb. Unplug the harness from the locking mechanism and while having someone activate the switch (up or down), touch one lead to the lock harness terminal (either one) and touch the other lead to a known good ground. If bulb lights up brightly, on both terminals of harness plug...then you know you have sufficient amperage...and wiring harness is good. If light doesn't light up brightly...then you know you have issues up stream.
Brian.
there was an intimation on another forum that the lock that was replaced needed to be “synced” with the system; that information is FALSE. There is no “smart” technology that syncs the locks together...you simply replace the lock. I unfortunately just received 2 bad replacements.
now I am faced with purchasing another lock...or trying to rebuild one of those I have.
Doc
#26
10-29-2018, 08:58 PM
Relevancy
Explains how the BCU operates in regards to door locks. Thought it might be helpful for troubleshooting as well. Perhaps you’re “super locked”?worth checking out since this is your second actuator? Finicky creatures these are. Circuits need to be completed in order to work I.e. front console window switch will not lower rear window if rear door window switch is disconnected or inoperative. Hope it helps...
Last edited by Frtpilot; 10-29-2018 at 09:09 PM. Reason: Addition
#27
10-30-2018, 08:57 AM
Recovery Vehicle
That was a fun one to learn while I was trying to change out my lock actuators after I took the switches and door panel off lol
#28
11-02-2018, 06:33 AM
Pro Wrench
#29
12-07-2018, 02:09 AM
So everyone is aware; I have successfully removed the rear actuator; followed steps supplied by Sandman’s tutorial to disassemble the actuator / lock housing; removed the offending motor, replaced that motor with one Sandman had for sale; performed the minor surgery required to extend the motor drive shaft; reinstalled the motor; reassembled the actuator / lock housing; reinstalled the actuator and as of now....
it it works perfectly!
I do not want to “toot my own horn” because it was a pain in the *** process. I am likely going to have to do it once more for the passenger side rear actuator as well it seems; hopefully it will wait until spring.
but spending $10 for a motor; VS $175 for a new actuator was a chance I had to take.
also; I bought THREE separate used actuators from eBay; all of them arrived with the motors dead. Granted the sellers refunded the money; but the moral to the story is, that is one part on eBay that will likely be DOA.
I may write my own more accurate and detailed tutorial in the next few days. But just know that while the process can seem daunting at first it really isn’t.
doc
it it works perfectly!
I do not want to “toot my own horn” because it was a pain in the *** process. I am likely going to have to do it once more for the passenger side rear actuator as well it seems; hopefully it will wait until spring.
but spending $10 for a motor; VS $175 for a new actuator was a chance I had to take.
also; I bought THREE separate used actuators from eBay; all of them arrived with the motors dead. Granted the sellers refunded the money; but the moral to the story is, that is one part on eBay that will likely be DOA.
I may write my own more accurate and detailed tutorial in the next few days. But just know that while the process can seem daunting at first it really isn’t.
doc
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