Rebuilt engine= now no fuel : (
 

I recently overhauled the motor in my 03 disco II and tried to start it for the first time tonight. I cranked and cranked it with the fuel pump relay pulled trying to build oil pressure. No luck. finally put the fuel pump relay back in and when trying to start it still just cranks and cranks. F2 fuse underhood is blown. replaced and same thing. I found that replacing it again and the instant the key is turned to on position the F2 fuse pops. This should mean I have a dead short somewhere, but any ideas where to start? What circuits does F2 control? Also, should I be worried that the newly installed gauge and the factory oil light do not go out while cranking the motor? I am scared that it isn't building pressure but not sure if they will normally build pressure or not until they run for a second or two. replaced oil pump gears during rebuild and used assembly lube to put the pump back together instead of vaseline. Any ideas to either concern are greatly appreciated

Forgot to ask, will fuse 2 being blown keep it from starting? Should it be starting even though it is blowing fuse #2?

Great minds think alike (or so we think)!! When I rebuilt my 04' motor I had pulled both the fuel pump and ignition breakers and relays. The intent was to make sure I had oil pressure at first start. To my surprise no oil pressure on gauge and no factory oil pressure light out. I thought I must have did something incorrectly on the build. I then got the idea to pull the fuses in my 03' and see if I would get pressure which I did not. This gave me a much better feeling when I replaced the 04' fuses and she fired right up. Not sure what is causing your fuse to blow but I would check your injector connectors and make sure no wire is shorting to ground.

One other thing you might want to verify prior to start is if you had your transmission cooler lines off that the quick disconnect is properly engaged. I had checked mine the first time by pulling on each coupling and all appeared good. At start the passanger line blew and I pumped about a gallon of ATF on my driveway. What a mess!!

In the under hood fuse box F2 drives the ECM and the MAF, also runs off to evap canister and O2 sensors. From a quick review of thr RAVE circuit diagrams, "Charging and Starting" - and they are in color, which will be extra hard for color blind and math challenged mechanics (always skip reading the warnings printed in red, and can't do simple math, except when it comes to a 3 cent error on pay check).

I feel alot better about the oil situation thanks 0304. As for circuits, is there somewhere I can dowload the wiring diagrams? MY versions of the rave came from Landroverresource i think and I can't seem to find any wiring diagrams in there. I replaced both 02 sensors during bebuild, but didn't change anything else. I have a dead short since it pops instantly when turning the key and loud enough I can hear the fuse blow from behind the wheel. For everyone's reference F2 is 15 amp fuse and the icon shows a motor with a lightning bolt through it. There is a icon just like it for F1 that is a 30 amp fuse and it seems fine. Anyone have any ideas on where to start tracing wiring?

The wiring diagrams and the entire factory shop manual set can be downloaded for free at link below, it is called the RAVE. So mine came from same source.

Inside the download, the info you seek is in file pdf\lt\cdlt033n, which is a pdf file, too big to upload, so I can't send you just that on this site.

file "LT" (in lower case) is all the Disco 2 manuals

cdlt033n is one wiring drawing set, there is also an electrical manual, and a workshop manual, owners manual, etc.

I woudl still think it shoudl run(but very rough) Savannah Buzz indicated the items that this runs. You said you replaced the O2 sensors. Could you have somehow pinched a wire? I would check this since you touched it. I don't think you can put 02 connector on backwards.

Its possible. I am going to check 02 sensors when I get home. I read somewhere else that the ecm can go bad internally but I highly doubt that since I drove it in the garage and the battery has been disconnected for a month. I am going to unplug the 02's and the MAF and the ECM and turn the key with a good fuse. If it blows immediately again it would seem as though I have dead short in wiring somewhere and 02s are very possible. IF not then I have a short in one of those components internally and should be pretty easy to narrow it down.

Ok so I messed with it some more tonight. Disconnected MAF both 02's and of course still pops the fuse soon as key is turned and still doesn't even try to start. Just cranks and cranks. I disconnected power to the ECM and turned the key and fuse still blows so ECM shouldn't be the problem. One other thing I noticed was the IAC valve stays on whenever the key is turned on. Sits there and vibrates and hums the whole time. I unplugged it, with hope something was wrong there, but fuse still pops and engine still doesn't start. I tried to check the wires going to the new 02 sensors and they seem ok. No obvious pinches or fraying. The fuse blows so immediately that it almost has to be a dead short. I am so frustrated with this thing!!! I spent a month gathering parts and rebuilding the motor. I thought I would be driving it right now, but really starting to get annoyed. Any idea what my next step should be in the diagnosis? I have a multimeter, any way to work backwards and find the circuit that is shorted from the plugs working back towards the fuse box?

Hope this helps - you can download complete RAVE for free.