Hello All,

I over the last few days I installed my CDL on my 2003. It works and I am very excited to test it out. With new Duratracs and a CDL I am ready for some wheeling. I found a gravel pit around here and engaged the CDL I can feel the difference especially in low.

I used a D1 shifter for the install.

Thoughts and Comments on the install. I went by the letter on Joshes write up. I would add this for those who choose the D1 shifter. Its the cheapest option for about $100 on eBay or salvage yard find. I was lucky enough to get mine from Buckhorn imports about a year ago. They gave me the 4 bolts that bolt directly to the top off the transmission. 2 different lengths. Also they gave me a OEM factory boot and cover that seals the top of the D1 shifter. This was really cool. I also replace the front output T/C seal while I was at it. I old one was a bear to remove. It looked fine thought I would do it while I was at it.

Console plate
The rivets once drilled out of of the center console plate, still have the lower part of the rivets attached. I ended up removing the plate entirely to cut the hole bigger and drill all the rivits out. This involved removing the transmission shifter and slipping the lower boot thought the hole. Also taking the cable out of the shifter. Its involved but nothing too bad.

Greatest Hangup:
After removing the Y pipe front prop shaft and both cross braces. I was got the front output housing removed. Then I was stumped for a full day because the diff gears would not come forward TO SAVE MY LIFe. I got help from therealdiscomike on the forum. I ended up removing the rear output and prop shaft. That did the trick and I got the gear to come out. Then all I had to do was hook every thing up. Hooked up the D1 shifter.

Next obstacle.
Diff locked and stuck...What to do? Other than cuss.
By taking a brake. I surmised that I could remove the detent ball on the front output(just like the Hi/Lo selector). I did that after removing diff lock shaft. I was able to move the shaft back and fork. I re-greased the shaft and with Red Tacky #2 and it worked great. This was all while the front output was installed working from above the console.

So I received my new diff lock switch from AB and installed it. The old switch was sheared off on the doner transfer case. Put that in and it worked. Wired it up as per the instructions. Pushed the button on the switch. Boom get the 4x4 on the dash Awesome! When I installed it in the T/C and locked it, I get no light on the Dash. What the Hell. So I figured it out tonight. When on a muddy road, engaged diff lock waited a second rolled forward(probably dog clutch moving slightly) hear the ding ding and the frogger 4x4 on the screen. So happy!

Here are some pictures

Front Output inspection plate cleaned and ready to seal.


Front diff finally removed. Really clean inside. I reused my Royal Purple, less than a year old. Not a spec of metal inside the case. Sweet.


Rear output removed to get the front output to move forward.


Rear view of T/C case with E-Brake hanging. Only took another 30 min to get this off.


03 diff out. Holy crap I thought it would never come out.


Coveted Diff lock sticker, found on eBay UK



Video of diff lock switch testing.

 

Bosshog, I'm kind of in the same boat that you were in.

I have my donor case sitting in my garage and I disassembled it completely today. I'm having the same issue that you did.

I can't seem to get the gear set to come out of the old case. I can see it wiggling around and it will come forward slightly. I guess I just don't know how hard I can really pry on it, or hit it. I don't want to damage the gear set, or I've wasted a lot of time and money. I have everything removed from the case including the rear output. I don't think I've removed the detent ball, or interlock solenoid, so that could be the issue, but I just wanted to ask how hard you were actually prying on things before they came out.

 

Why did you take it apart so much? You don't have to pull the gear set out to replace the front cone.

Is it required that the gears be replaced also? I just swapped the front cone on mine and it has been fine for the last 10,000 miles.

 

I think the gear sets are different and you have to pull the gear set if you have the 03.

 

If that is the case, though, I would really like to know now, before I do a lot more work that I don't need to do. How often have you used your CDL and do you have any sort of weird vibrations or anything from not swapping the gear set as well?

 

Mine is an 03, I got a locking LT230 from a D1 or something. The guy I bought it from didn't know. I pulled the front cone and put it on mine. I use the CDL frequently and haven't experienced any problems. You can swap the cones in an hour or two with the transfer case in the truck.

 

Ok. I guess I'll give that option some thought.

 

From all I have heard the front output is different from a D1. After I removed the rear output I was able to jiggle the front output and remove it. You do need to remove the detent ball too. That may be your hold up. right there.

Dave

 

That's what I'm thinking. It wiggles back and forth by a couple millimeters, like it's stuck in a groove on the selector shaft.

 

6mm set screw for the detent ball.