Replacing Wheel Hubs
 

My front passenger wheel hub is bad and needs to be replaced so I'm making a how to thread on the procedure. Never done it before but I have the rave, youtube and all the tools I need. Looks like a very simple job. I'll be ordering "Proline" wheel hubs ($600 for pair) tomorrow and since I always prefer to replace things in pairs, Im going to go ahead and replace both front hubs together. Above is a video I made when I was testing the front wheels for play. Ill post pictures and another video when I complete the job.

In the mean time feel free to add any useful tips. Maybe we can add this to the how to maintenance thread for Disco 2 trucks.

I'll start the job in a couple days and post back here when the job is done.
Cheers all.

Since you have a truck from New England get the area around the hub where it fits into the knuckle soaked with pb blaster (not wd-40!) days in advance. Getting the hub to come out is the toughest part. I did the ball joints on a P38 I owned previously and that was the part that required the most effort.


Check the ball joints now too. There will never be a better time to tackle them. They're only $25 each so for another $100 you can knock that off your list.

Theres a good write up on discovery2.co.uk about replacing the hub. I never could get my hub off without the axle coming with it, but some how they seemed to. If you can do it that way then you won't need a new axle seal, but if you can't do it that way then you will. I've still got to go back and replace mine because I neglected to do so when I replaced the hub. Damn it.

I replaced my ball joints with this kit: DA5509 Disco II HD Steering Rods W/Tie Rod Ends

As for the hub removal. My plan:

1: Jack up front end
2: remove wheel
3: pop out wheel cap
4: refit wheel and secure with 2 lug nuts
5: lower truck
6: remove axle nut
7: raise truck
8: remove wheel
9: Remove brake caliper
10: Remove Caliper bracket
11: disconnect abs sensor
12: Remove 4 bolts that secure wheel hub to truck
13: remove wheel hub assembly using 3 jaw puller: Three-Jaw Puller Set 3 Pc
14: remove old abs sensor cable
15: install new abs sensor cable
16: install new wheel hub assembly
etc

I'm probably going to use a new axle nut and maybe 4 new bolts that secure the wheel hub, but it depends on how much trouble I have with the old bolts. I need locktite though.

and this brings me to another question. Recently had a friend look over my truck and he said my axle seals were leaking. So I ordered the following parts:
1: O RING REAR HUB ASSEMBLY DISCOVERY II, RND695, FTC4919 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts
2: SEAL AXLE SHAFT DISCOVERY II & P38A RANGE ROVER, FTC4822, RND484, PLD484 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts

and after looking at this diagram from Rovers North, it seems as though Ill be working in the same area while I replace my front wheel hubs: Discovery II Hub and Axle Assembly - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts

So how much more work would I have to do in order to install the new o-ring and axle seal? Input on this would be greatly appreciated and will save me $$$ if I can do it on my own!

The ball joints you replaced were what everybody other than Land Rover calls tie rod ends. The ball joints I was referring to hold the steering knuckle on the axle housing.

On the hubs, in the rear they fit Into the axle housing and use an oring to keep the gear oil in the axle housing. In the front, the hubs sit out in the air. A seperate axle seal keeps the oil in the housing.

Here are hubs for $100 each with free shipping and a 2 year warranty.

Wheel Bearing Hub Front Driver or Passenger for Land Rover Discovery Series II | eBay

and here's a video of how to install


They are aftermarket but, since you were buying aftermarket anyway.

fantastic price and a 2 Year Warranty Guaranteed to boot

So what about those axle seals and the o-ring I asked about? Are they easy to get to while the hub is off the truck? How much more work would I have to do to replace the seal and o-ring? Id love to kill 2 birds with one stone.

I'm not quite sure what you are asking for here. There is no o-ring in the front, just an axle seal where the shaft enters the housing. That's an easy one to replace while you have the front hubs off. The o-ring in the rear will require you to remove the rear hub. Most threads I have found regarding leaks in this area end up with the gear oil coming through the hub bearing, not the o-ring. I have replaced a rear hub on my truck and it isn't too bad a process but you need to pick up some type of a retaining compound (not thread locker) for the splines on the shaft. You should use that product on the front axle splines also. It fills in any gaps between the splines on the shaft and inside the hub to provide full contact.