running hot but not overheating
 

I replaced my thermostat the other day to try and cure my bottom rad hose being cold . I used an OEM and have a 180* on order. My bottom hose is still cold, but now it overheats, I don't let it get any higher that 215 but it goes down when I turn on the heater,the system is all bled and my fan clutch is fine. I was thinking it might be a gunked up rad so I will be flushing it this week and maybe re installing the old thermostat.

Anybody know of a solution. Thanks
02 disco ii se

Sounds like it is probably your radiator. Also, the new thermostat might not be fully opening. You can check it by putting it in a pot of boiling water and seeing if it opens fully.

How do you know your viscus is OK, how did you test it? Also, if you are over 100,000 miles, your radiator is plugged up to the point cleaning it won't help.

I have 118000 km on my truck. I turned the fan when engine is at temp and it only turns about a 10th of a turn if that. I had no over heating issues until I put in the new t- stat

My .02
I replaced my fan clutch at 101k miles.

I had the old one and the new one sitting on the garage floor.

I could grab them both by the bolt that goes onto the water pump.

The older fan clutch was twice as easy to turn.

I NEVER heard my fan with the old fan clutch.
Now the fan will roar once and a while. So I know the new clutch is working better.

I am replacing my radiator with a brand new one tomorrow most likely.

I am running at 208 to 210F at idle and the AUX fan comes on.
I'll post what I find with the new radiator.

Aux fan is doing as speced (212 F on). Fan clutch may well roar a bit at startup.

Mojigglins - the test is spin and release, see how far it goes, 1/10 of a revolution - I'd say you were closed to locked up.

I do not hear that roar at all, Sounds like a new rad and clutch fan are going to be ordered. might as well do the water pump while I am at it. So where is the best place to order these parts? In Canada would be nice too. In my town I have a rad specialist who also happens to a collector of discos, he has a junkyard full of about 20ish discos and many other rovers. Any body every salvage these parts I am on a bit of a budget

If on budget get WP and fan clutch from same truck. Big old copper/brass rad that is in a D1 can be removed, a side tank unsoldered, and calcium rodded out. About $75 US near me. Old rads and old rads that have sat around will have dried buildup inside usually, you can see it on the ends of tubes if you look down the bung hole with a flashlight. If going with an old rad, be sure oil cooler section isn't blocked. D2 rad is not serviceable, if it hasn't ben flushed on a frequent basiis, mosts clogs are "perm".

My WP is from a D2 (same pump) $5 and my fan/clutch is from a 2000 Blazer (same thread, six inch diameter, reverse rotation, just like the Rover ($19).

Stuck on getting Radiator out. Can't find bolts below. Truck 1/2 apart
 

Guys,
Started to take the radiator out.
Got as far as the fan off, top cowl off.
Took off two 10mm bolts on either end.

Radiator seems married and stuck to the A/C evap by more bolts located
somewhere.

To those who have replaced the radiator -- where are all the bolts holding it in?

I remember LandRovermastertech saying some of the bolts were nasty to get out?

Rave sez you have to remove the grill and horn to get to the 4 screws.