This thread kind of worries me. My 01 LR DII has always ran at 200 - 210 degrees. It still does - in the winter/summer, doesn't matter. Sometimes, though rarely, the temperature fluctuates to 212 - 215.

Should I be worried?

 

i say dont be worried.

mine has been running between 200 and 210 during the winter (just got the scangauge)

 

Nope, you are fine.

 

In a sea of turmoil, Disco Mike, you are a calming influence. Glad you have our backs! Yet, I still get nervous whenever the temp climbs above 210 degrees. I have come to the conclusion that some of these trucks just run hotter than others, regardless of the outside temp. At least that is what I will continue to tell myself until the thing melts down..........I will change out the fan clutch and see if that will make a difference. The dealer version and the one offered by British Parts of Utah are pretty pricey, although still less than an new engine......By the way, I detailed the DI last night, finally have to sell it. After it was detailed out I don't know that I want to sell it, it looks so good. Given our pothole-riddled roads here in San Diego, I am glad I have the go anywhere, under any condition fleet of Discoverys.......All the best. Phil

1999 DI
2000 DII
2001 DII

 

Hi, while performing the head gasket change on my son's Disco II the air conditioner mount got away from us and hit the radiator. I pulled the radiator yesterday for repair but it will not hold a weld (time to replace anyway). I have been looking at some radiators on eBay and i can get a 1 row aluminum core plastic tank for approx $160 delivered. Has anyone here had any experience with these 1 row radiators? They have a lifetime warrantee; so the manufacturer must think they'll do the job. I have used them on other cars and have been fine but these Rover's are not "other cars". I have to decided quick, I am going to spend the evening searching this forum for an answer; I'll keep checking back on this thread, thanks.

Ps. my son kept a picture diary of the entire head gasket change. I am going to post them in an album here as soon as I can figure out how to upload them in chronological order; they didn't download from the camera to the computer in order so I have to unscramble them by file number but this is going to take a while.

 

What you DII guys are forgetting is the heater core.
The DII's cooling system re-routes engine coolant to the heater at idle to "aid in passenger comfort".
So if your heater core is partially clogged your truck will run hotter at idle.
Replacing the fan clutch wont do anything, neither will a new t-stat or serp belt...you need to flush your heater core and remove the scale and corrosion.
If you have ever dissected a DII t-stat you will see that it is spring loaded, at idle there is not enough pressure to force it open and route coolant trough the radiator.

 

I have never dissected the "jarvik heart". That is very interesting. I"m always so frustrated with the Land Rover engineers having taken it upon themselves to complicate even the simplest of tasks. Your explanation of operation is the first time I've seen an actually method to their madness. I have a spare thermostat after troubleshooting what ended up being the head gasket. At one time I had thought of cracking it open but when the new one was no help I decided it better to keep it as a back up. Speaking of complicated, removing the radiator is a prime example of an engineer's ability to take a routine procedure and turn it into a major pain in the ****. It's like Wile E. Coyote made an SUV to catch the Roadrunner. They had an excellent idea to have the oil and trans coolers separate from the water but then they connect them all together.... idiots!. They could have designed it so the screws holding the lower fan shroud in place were all that was needed to hold and release the radiator. On top of that they made no access to the bolts behind the horns. I could go on and on but if you have even pulled the radiator on a Disco II you know how ridiculous it is and that they also left out some important steps in the RAVE.... either that or I don't read so well. And yet it is still worth all the pain and frustration. Sorry.... not complaining,... just venting.... again. I don't know, maybe I should have researched the forum for advise before I tried pulling the radiator but I was in a hurry and didn't think about it at the time.

 

According to RAVE manual the thermostat opens at 82 °C (179 °F) and fully opens at 96 °C (204 °F). Under normal engine operating temperatures the engine coolant temperature gauge will display in the centre of the gauge. The ECM illuminates the LED when it detects the engine coolant has exceeded a temperature of 121 °C (250 °F) and switches it off when the coolant temperature drops below 118 °C (244 °F).

 

According to RAVE manual the thermostat opens at 82 °C (179 °F) and fully opens at 96 °C (204 °F). Under normal engine operating temperatures the engine coolant temperature gauge will display in the centre of the gauge. The ECM illuminates the LED when it detects the engine coolant has exceeded a temperature of 121 °C (250 °F) and switches it off when the coolant temperature drops below 118 °C (244 °F).

 

Look at a BMW engine. Very similar to a LR engine...because the DII is a product of BMW ownership.