After finally finding the leak in the radiator after a pressure test,I'm looking for a replacement. My 02 is non-SAI and for the most part the radiators I've seen online are for SAI. I read that the SAI radiators would work in mine as the only difference is a sensor port. Anyone have any input? Thanks.

 

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/lan...scovery-64313a

running this in my truck. dont have SAI and it works just fine.

 

My understanding is, "SAI radiators" have the port to accommodate the Thermostat Monitoring Sensor. It's been reported that some of the radiators are interchangeable and come with a plug screwed into the port. Prior to ordering a radiator you might want to look to ensure you don't have the sensor. D&O in the manual doesn't mention the TM sensor being used in SAI system and that ETC sensor output is used?
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I did a double check, no sensors. I guess while I've got a few captive audience members I have another question. Did a pressure test, no drop in psi. Found the leak pushing out of the radiator, thus allow in air into the system. Did the test today and it dropped 1 psi. Am I wrong to assume this is from the leak at the radiator? I've gotta buddy who works for a BMW dealership that swears it's a HG issue.

 

Was the truck hot or cold?

Was this after the radiator replacement?

How long was it pressure tested for?

Do you have codes or a rough running condition.

I wouldn't jump to conclusions. It's techs like your buddy who are responsible for the lack of faith in dealer techs. There are multiple other possibilities that can be responsible for a coolant pressure test drop.
1 psi could be an air bubble in cooling system, throttle body heater leaking. Seepage from the mutltiple coolant lines or heater core.
Or your tester could have been installed incorrectly on the reservoir.

Diagnose twice. Replace once.

 

Pressure tested it for 25 mins and a second time at 30. The first there was a very minimal drop. This is when we found the leak in the base of the radiator. Both pressure tests were done while it was cool.

I kind of took what he said lightly. The HG were just replaced a few months back and I've been fighting the water noise in the dash until I back flushed the heater core. Ive changed the oil twice since the HG change with no obvious signs of coolant/oil mix. Plugs don't look steamed. I also did the chem test. Nothing out of the ordinary. It isn't showing any signs of the typical failure in these things.

 

Was the leak still apparent during the second test with no pressure drop? You didn't give a description of the leak you found and must not be too bad if not seen before. Is it a leak as in drops forming or a seep? Do you see evidence that it has been leaking there for some time?

Remember now that you've had a problem getting air out of your system since a doing the HGs. You may need to look at some of the alternative bleeding procedures. Just following the D2 manual procedure is guaranteed to leave air in the system and higher than desired temps. If your existing radiator leak is minor I'd suggest you practice on how to bleed the system while waiting for a radiator. It's easy once you get a procedure down. You really need to get it bled right and run to determine if there are other leaks/issues. I've had mine wide open several times in the last month with no subsequent temp issues.
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The leak looks to have definitely been seeping for sometime and the pressure test just exposed a very weak spot. The leak is at the bottom of the radiator on the driver's side.
Followed the RAVE and a few suggestions I'd seen online and finally got the air out with the backflush of the heater core.

 

That's good. So it's now bled, have you taken for test drive to check your system out? Understand you may be waiting for radiator. I had several small leaks/seeps, kept driving it while chasing them down, monitored temps closely and topped off system with a few ounces via bleed hole each morning until all leaks were fixed. Use same method over several days to get residual air out left by initial bleeding after doing a drain/flush/refill or pump change. If it continues to take fluid after several days it may be a good indication that air is still getting into the system and need to look further.

Once new radiator is in you'll be able to tell your buddy he was wrong.
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I've found the RAVE to be (mostly) helpful. Once I get the radiator back in hopefully getting any air out won't be such a pain this time. I've taken it out and had no major issues since the bleed/backflush. So hopefully next time won't be that much of a pain.