Selling 2003 Landrover Discovery....
#31
01-14-2019, 08:26 AM
The booster on my 04 was almost eaten through with rust.
The MC(which the po had replaced), was leaking and brake fluid ate the paint.
With the leak fixed the bottom and front of the booster were badly rusted.
I got a new booster, and replaced it.
The old one wouldn't have taken much effort to push a hole through, and another winter would have done it in.
As metal was eaten away.
The MC(which the po had replaced), was leaking and brake fluid ate the paint.
With the leak fixed the bottom and front of the booster were badly rusted.
I got a new booster, and replaced it.
The old one wouldn't have taken much effort to push a hole through, and another winter would have done it in.
As metal was eaten away.
#32
01-14-2019, 08:33 AM
TReK
The booster on my 04 was almost eaten through with rust.
The MC(which the po had replaced), was leaking and brake fluid ate the paint.
With the leak fixed the bottom and front of the booster were badly rusted.
I got a new booster, and replaced it.
The old one wouldn't have taken much effort to push a hole through, and another winter would have done it in.
As metal was eaten away.
The MC(which the po had replaced), was leaking and brake fluid ate the paint.
With the leak fixed the bottom and front of the booster were badly rusted.
I got a new booster, and replaced it.
The old one wouldn't have taken much effort to push a hole through, and another winter would have done it in.
As metal was eaten away.
#33
01-14-2019, 08:36 AM
TReK
Based on the photos, there is no corrosion on the booster itself. I have never seen a booster even close to rusted through, so even if there is some corrosion I cannot see I doubt if it is close to rusting through. If the power brakes still work, the booster is not bad. Boosters do fail, but you cannot see the failure visually even if you take the unit off (possible if you cut it open, but I have never tried). The leak at the master cylinder is a leak between the reservoir and the master cylinder itself, the rear port seal deteriorates from the use of DOT 3 fluid instead of the recommended DOT 4 and eventually starts leaking. It does not require complete removal of the master cylinder to replace (ie disconnection of the brake lines and the associated brake bleeding), but it is easier to do on the bench. It does require disconnection of the master cylinder from the booster to install the new seal, but no need to remove the brake lines. The seal can be ordered as part of a rebuild kit, I have ordered and replaced several as they all do it. However, as someone else pointed out, if you merely top up the fluid regularly you will not lose brakes. There is a level indicator that will turn on the red brake light in the instrument panel if it is low. Be sure to fill it as soon as that happens or you will introduce air in to the system if it gets too low. As the seal continues to deteriorate you will spend a fair amount on fluid however.
Much easier fix in my opinion than the power steering leak. 95% probability your PS pump is leaking, however at your leak rate it might also be a bad hose and that is easier to fix. The problem with the power steering pump replacement is LR put a mounting stud in the head to mount the power steering bracket on, so you have to remove the AC compressor, idler pulley, radiator fan, and compressor bracket to get the pump off. I always pull that damn stud out and throw it away as it was one of three bolts holding the pump in and is superfluous in my opinion. If the pump had been changed once before or the HG done it may be gone already, it is the top bolt holding the pump on and can be seen without disassembly if it is still there. The rave manual and some internet photos will help immensely understanding the removal and replacement of the pump. The pumps do wear out and at your mileage likely needs replacing.
To the original poster, you need to find a specialty LR shop with a good reputation and take the truck ONLY there. Any other shop will give you bad advice as these things are different from most of what the average shops work on. However, you may want to consider DIY if there is not one close by. Overall one of the great things about these Disco's is they are relatively easy to DIY. So much good information on the internet, so many videos, and so many people on the forums willing to help. It can be intimidating if you have never done it, but if you can work up the courage to make the effort I guarantee you can do it with the help from the forums. Buying the tools is cheaper than the shop labor is all cases. Most repairs can be done in a parking lot or a garage, worst case you rent a storage locker big enough to put the Disco in and get out of the weather, even if it is just for a week. If it is your only vehicle, buy all the tools and parts recommended by the forum post ahead of time and save the job for a long weekend. Don't forget Enterprise rental cars are cheap also if you need a couple days to do the job. At $30ish a day you can rent several days before you have spent even one hour of a shops time. We will get you through it, I for one am actually willing to facetime a newbie through a job is they really need help.
Good luck, and let us know if we can help.
Much easier fix in my opinion than the power steering leak. 95% probability your PS pump is leaking, however at your leak rate it might also be a bad hose and that is easier to fix. The problem with the power steering pump replacement is LR put a mounting stud in the head to mount the power steering bracket on, so you have to remove the AC compressor, idler pulley, radiator fan, and compressor bracket to get the pump off. I always pull that damn stud out and throw it away as it was one of three bolts holding the pump in and is superfluous in my opinion. If the pump had been changed once before or the HG done it may be gone already, it is the top bolt holding the pump on and can be seen without disassembly if it is still there. The rave manual and some internet photos will help immensely understanding the removal and replacement of the pump. The pumps do wear out and at your mileage likely needs replacing.
To the original poster, you need to find a specialty LR shop with a good reputation and take the truck ONLY there. Any other shop will give you bad advice as these things are different from most of what the average shops work on. However, you may want to consider DIY if there is not one close by. Overall one of the great things about these Disco's is they are relatively easy to DIY. So much good information on the internet, so many videos, and so many people on the forums willing to help. It can be intimidating if you have never done it, but if you can work up the courage to make the effort I guarantee you can do it with the help from the forums. Buying the tools is cheaper than the shop labor is all cases. Most repairs can be done in a parking lot or a garage, worst case you rent a storage locker big enough to put the Disco in and get out of the weather, even if it is just for a week. If it is your only vehicle, buy all the tools and parts recommended by the forum post ahead of time and save the job for a long weekend. Don't forget Enterprise rental cars are cheap also if you need a couple days to do the job. At $30ish a day you can rent several days before you have spent even one hour of a shops time. We will get you through it, I for one am actually willing to facetime a newbie through a job is they really need help.
Good luck, and let us know if we can help.
#34
01-14-2019, 12:16 PM
it doesn’t cost me much to keep it as I keep it on the street. Maybe I should get another opinion before giving up. The immediate problem is the leaking fluid it is really bad. I need to get a engine (underneath bath) to see where the problem is. Maybe I will do that tomorrow and go from there. It has 149,000 miles, somehow passed inspection, and could have another year or two if I am lucky. Don’t want to put more than a couple hundred bucks in thou, not worth it. I will let you all know and really appreciate it.
If i opt to sell for parts, what should I ask? $500
#35
01-14-2019, 12:27 PM
could be a fun project with your kids! That’s what got me into cars, my dad wanted my help and here I am, it’s not a too insane job, tutorials are on YouTube, and the power steering issue could be cheap, even a new power steering pump is $90, break booster might be a job you want done if your not confident in doing it, if your truck is in good overall shape and runs well it’s probably worth saving, if it’s overall condition isn’t amazing you could always try and get $900 for it on good ole Craigslist!
#36
01-14-2019, 02:11 PM
I agree with CollieRover - if I had to do it again I would buy a replacement master cylinder instead of the master cylinder rebuild kit. Not because mine started leaking again, but because the extra time it took to disassemble the old MC and rebuild it using the kit wasn't worth the money saved.
#37
01-14-2019, 03:16 PM
#38
01-14-2019, 05:17 PM
#39
01-14-2019, 05:19 PM
you can do new hoses and a pump for $140, I had a massive leak and the pump had a bad seal, easy fix, only takes like 3 tools and like 2 hours! Super easy even if you aren’t mechanically inclined!
#40
01-14-2019, 05:24 PM
I am up for the challenge. Forgetting how bad the leak. When I get into the car after a couple day not driving (and its really cold outside) the steering wheel feels completely locked. It take 5/10mins for it to loosen up once I fill it with fluid. Is this what it is? Can you tell me what I need and how to do it? I also think I should get a underwash, when the shop had it up doing and oil change the bottom was soaked leaking all over!