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Should I go heavy duty on fan clutch?

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  #11  
Old 03-04-2019, 10:53 AM
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I believe air flow of the original is a big weak point. I can drive hot summer days with ac on high and stay at 186 at 2000 ft elevation. When I go up to Colorado and get above 7000 it will climb to 210. That is the only time I get above 200. I will check out that dorman 620-112. I was looking for a 2 1/2 pitch blade.
 
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Old 03-04-2019, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason_B
Can this be fitted on the 04?
New fan clutch & fan blade = yes. The 03-04 is a one piece unit, but 99-02 = two piece.
 
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Old 03-04-2019, 11:49 AM
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The Dorman works fine down here in SETX. You can get an 11 blade model, but it sits further back & I don’t think that would be any help as you need a certain amount of suction with the blades placement just inside the shroud.
 
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Old 03-04-2019, 10:16 PM
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So.... do we all agree that a heavy duty fan clutch is the way to go? My stock fan is in good condition. How much of an improvement is the Dorman fan?
 
  #15  
Old 03-08-2019, 04:28 PM
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If you haven't changed to a 180 degree thermostat yet, do that at the same time also. The OE unit is 190 degree on the US gas vehicles.
 
  #16  
Old 03-08-2019, 10:30 PM
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My advise to you learned the hard way... is this -

1) Purchase the cheapest fan and clutch money can buy
2) Purchase the strongest battery you can afford (I just purchased and installed an Odyssey 2150 4 terminal battery which cost $500)
3) Convert to an electric fan setup immediately
4) THROW FAN AND CLUTCH INTO THE TRASH WHERE THEY BELONG

If you don't ..... you risk what happened to me last month ... happening to you.... the fan explodes (Explodes for unknown reasons!) your entire engine is now shredded .... thousands in repairs. All the oil pours out in seconds because the filter and/or oil lines gets stabbed by fan shrapnel ... you have 5-10 seconds to shut it off before the engine is destroyed forever .... hard to do if your in traffic or can't get off the road for whatever reason. All the coolant pours out in seconds because all the hoses come apart.. the temp skyrockets and you need a possible . head gasket job after it overheats.

Everyone on these forums talks about how important the drive shaft and other things are. I never saw anything about fans exploding until after it happened to me at the worst possible time /place - on Top of Mt. Charleston at night ... in the middle of a single digit national weather alert snowstorm .. GET RID OF THE FAN AND CLUTCH UNLESS YOU WANT YOUR ROVER DESTROYED! 1 month later I'm still ordering parts and this has cost me thousands in repairs and I still don't know if it will run the same. Per mechanic there is no way to know if the sudden loss of oil and coolant affected it .. until after it's fixed. I AM LOOKING AT $5,000 in REPAIRS.

I have a 1999 Land Rover Discovery II. Prior to this my Land Rover ran like a Champion. I got high flow cats. The cats must of been faulty because I got an instant MPG increase, instant HP increase and the Rover Purred like a cat. It a Rythmic Purr. It was like a brand new car. I am not even kidding. Now it does not sound the same at all - and I will be lucky if I do not need a new engine. Here is a short list of everything the fan destroyed when it failed:

1) Oil Line - Destroyed
2) Transmission Line -Destroyed
3) Oil Filter - Destroyed
4) 100% aluminum radiator Destroyed (Alli Sport Copy) (1 line was clipped and I'm told there is no way to fix it the entire rad must be replaced)
5) MAF Destroyed
6) Upper Intake Destroyed (MAF Bulb destroyed so entire thing must be replaced)
7) Air Housing Box Destroyed (Clips destroyed, hole in box)
8) All Front Coolant Hoses Destroyed
9) Coolant Reservoir appears destroyed but I don't know how because it was not in the trajectory of the fan shrapnel
10) Thermostat - Destroyed
11) Hood - HOLE
12) Fan Shroud - Destroyed
12) Alarm System Compromised somehow after letting battery drain out on side of road waiting for a tow truck (I had the heat on and was using the electronics). I am told alarm must be reset at Dealership only. And we don't know if it will work because the electrical system appears to be compromised now with lights flickering up and down the guy said that is not normal)
13) Somehow the AC Fuse was shorted out (don't know if this was from the fan or a coincidence.


Fan explosion ripped the hoses off and stabbed the oil filter resulting in loss of coolant and oil in seconds. Oil sprayed everywhere over the engine coating everything is a nasty mix of oil, coolant and trans fluid, The oil light is also on now even though there is oil in the car. Not sure if these means the pump is screwed or what.

In short my Rover is now ROYALLY SCREWED!!

I am ordering parts and dumping buckets of cash into it now. I had to find mechanic in Las Vegas who would let me purchase my own parts. The first mechanic I talked to (recommended on another forum) actually had the gall to tell me to return 1200,00 GBP of parts back to UK (and pay for shipping and a restocking fee) citing shop policy. This would allow my Rover the privilege of being worked on in her shop. And I would pay them for parts + shop markup. Whatever they decided to use of course. Oh, and it would all be new 100% authentic Rover parts. Because they said so. And they are not like the other 4 mechanics I caught telling me the same thing - and putting scrap yard parts in my Rover. And I should trust them. Because they said so. Needless to say I was forced to use another mechanic who would allow me to use my own brand new parts so I could have the security of knowing new parts were being put into the Rover.


Please do not let your Rover become like mine. The Fan and Clutch disaster was really not emphasized enough (or I missed reading it) on the forums. Had I known this was the threat I would have replaced it just like the drive shafts and other parts as preventative maintenance. This should be just as important of not more - than the front drive shaft.

Here is another thread on this: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...d-74309/page3/

There are more. You can read this guy replaced the Fan ... clutch ... and water pump - and it still blew up. After reading this and other threads it dawned on me - nobody knows the reason the fan explodes. It just does. If yours explodes and you get lucky and the shrapnel misses most things you might only pay $500 in repairs like the other guy or you might get a ruthless explosion like mine and be looking at $5,000 and the possible loss of your truck.

I cannot overemphasize how well my Rover ran before this happened. It was in near perfect condition. The purring sound after putting in high flow cats off and the the pickup in MPG and responsiveness is now not there.





Follow my advise and get rid of that fan and clutch.... or you will wish you did ..




















-
 
  #17  
Old 03-08-2019, 11:26 PM
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That is why I highly recommend a brand new 25.00 Dorman 620-112 fan blade. It also helps with it being white vs black so you can easily inspect it for stress cracks in the future.

In all my years of LR’s since the early 90’s I’ve never seen a single fan blade die & take out an engine. Can it happen sure, but it is not that common or I’d have seen one by now.

The only way I can see that kind of damage happening would be if a fan clutch locked up fully & then it tossed a blade. Because if the fan clutch was free it would have stopped rotating once the blade snagged on something instantly.

As far as the Efan setup vs fan clutch/fan blade I’ll stick with the fan clutch/fan blade. I’ve tried 2 Efan’s in my day that were $$$ on different vehicles and it was even tied into the ECU. Fan couldn’t keep up with the heat, and the shroud it used sucked and didn’t allow for air to flow completely thru the radiator. It only really flowed thru where the fan was creating HUGE hot spots. 237F and climbing on a vehicle that ran 195F with the stock setup for example.

On another setup the controllers constantly failed.... Don’t have that crap to worry about with a fan clutch/fan blade. Heck my 2014 company vehicle is strictly Efan cooled & when when it’s controller went nuts it wouldn’t increase the fan speed and cool it down properly. I don’t have a lot of faith in the Efan electronic controllers.

Efans certainly take the load off the engine, but it transfers that load onto your alternator & electronics.

I’ve been looking into a 9 blade 100% metal fan blade, but I’ve got to confirm the fitment/compatibility with the fan clutch it uses first.
 
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  #18  
Old 03-09-2019, 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Best4x4
That is why I highly recommend a brand new 25.00 Dorman 620-112 fan blade. It also helps with it being white vs black so you can easily inspect it for stress cracks in the future.

In all my years of LR’s since the early 90’s I’ve never seen a single fan blade die & take out an engine. Can it happen sure, but it is not that common or I’d have seen one by now.

The only way I can see that kind of damage happening would be if a fan clutch locked up fully & then it tossed a blade. Because if the fan clutch was free it would have stopped rotating once the blade snagged on something instantly.

As far as the Efan setup vs fan clutch/fan blade I’ll stick with the fan clutch/fan blade. I’ve tried 2 Efan’s in my day that were $$$ on different vehicles and it was even tied into the ECU. Fan couldn’t keep up with the heat, and the shroud it used sucked and didn’t allow for air to flow completely thru the radiator. It only really flowed thru where the fan was creating HUGE hot spots. 237F and climbing on a vehicle that ran 195F with the stock setup for example.

On another setup the controllers constantly failed.... Don’t have that crap to worry about with a fan clutch/fan blade. Heck my 2014 company vehicle is strictly Efan cooled & when when it’s controller went nuts it wouldn’t increase the fan speed and cool it down properly. I don’t have a lot of faith in the Efan electronic controllers.

Efans certainly take the load off the engine, but it transfers that load onto your alternator & electronics.

I’ve been looking into a 9 blade 100% metal fan blade, but I’ve got to confirm the fitment/compatibility with the fan clutch it uses first.

It it not uncommon. Look at the other threads on this. All the mechanics I called including the dealership were aware of this and had seen it. The fan I purchased was Genuine LR. It did have a slight wobble in the fan and when I asked about it - the LR mechanic said a slight wobble was normal and nothing to worry about. But then you can read where this happened to other people and no wobble is mentioned. I have a few photos of what it did up on the Land Rovers Only forum. All the blades (with the circular support) were sling shotted from the clutch. And reading online - nobody knows what the cause is. Only speculation. The mechanics said a bad fan OR bad clutch OR water pump bearing OR serp belt issue OR this OR that. They don't specifically know. On the forum link I provided the man had his fan explode 3 times in less than 3000 miles. What are the chances all 3 of his fans were bad? That would be like getting blackjack 10 times in a row.

Also I'm reading the electric fans are better off road vs. manual. Land Rover Zone You Tube has a video of his electric fans pushing the temps below 180. The viscous clutch is not regulated by the ECU. It goes off engine heat only and the silicone inside expands or contracts for spin. That could another reason why my fan exploded destroying my beloved Rover because it was snowing and the temperature was 9 degrees and falling. I was also around 7000-9000 feet above sea level and climbing up. The engine REV' also surged past 3500 RPM before it exploded. I'm not exactly sure how high the elevation was .. I would have to go back and take a look. But around 7000-9000 feet for sure. I don't know if elevation or incline would have anything to do with anything.

Whatever the reason... it does not matter to me at this point. The facts are: There is a risk the fan will explode... when that happens the fan turns into grenade shrapnel and the blades and bits go full force into random areas of the engine and can even go straight through the top of the hood. It's a roll of the dice and you will either get away with minor damage and a $500 repair bill like that other guy - or brutal damage like what happened to me.

It's far better to spend money on the biggest best electrical fan setup you can afford. Also with the Odyessy PC2150STM you never have to worry about electrical drain but the battery is $500 with shipping - but is 70 pounds and expected to last 10 years and can last 2 years in storage and fits the Discovery 2 battery tray with only 1 cable positive replacement.

This fan is not worth the risk. It's also loud and takes away HP and MPG. Your rig has to burn gas and use HP to turn that thing.

I am really upset because my Rover was running flawlessly as I continued to build it up. I did all my due diligence reading finding and replacing every possible little thing that could go wrong on these trucks. And missed this 1 little thing - which is a major thing. It's simply not emphasized enough on these forums. Everyone talks about the front drive shaft or this or that. A front drive shaft failure would be preferable to this because of the turn around time. All the parts I'm ordering are taking time to arrive from UK and just yesterday I discovered ANOTHER little slash the fan made on oil hose which has some kind of mesh under it.

I don't see anywhere online that offers a metal fan for these trucks but considering nobody seems to know the exact cause of the fan exploding I would be even more hesitant to use a metal fan.

IMHO not worth it. I am now out buckets of cash for NO REASON. My rig was impeccably pampered before this nonsense and was running so perfect.















 
  #19  
Old 03-09-2019, 03:58 AM
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In my experience having few Discos, the factory fan is capable enough to handle the heat. Mine are all factory still and some of them have over 200k miles and still going. It probably matters if you live in hotter climate but I live in the east coast. I had fan eaten the shroud but never exploded and still in use. I had belt broke on the highway and wrapped around the fan at high speeds and fan never broke and still in use. The 180 deg thermostat lowers the heat really well and also proper bleeding. I had wobble in one and the cause was the coolant pump shaft was loose until I replaced it. I am sure our experiences vary and upgrading after market parts is also a good choice.
 
  #20  
Old 03-09-2019, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Gonow
So.... do we all agree that a heavy duty fan clutch is the way to go? My stock fan is in good condition. How much of an improvement is the Dorman fan?
if you read the link from Hayden above, you will see that the clutch is rated for higher fan speed. This may cause your fan to blow apart. Not saying it wont work but as noted above....cautious.
 


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