Should we start with the tick?
 

The motor does have a tick, runs a lil rough.
It has the 4.0L 188bhp, the belt is routed correctly.

Is there a walk thru or write up on diagnosing the cause?
Can a tick be caused by a bad sensor?

Know any cheap handheld code readers for this truck?

I am at the, don't wanna do this if I have to do that point.

Plans right now, replace plugs wires, get code reader, read, and fix what I can of the codes. Check vacuum pressure. If it needs new head or block, those things will need done anyway. Fuel and cooling flush was done 20K ago, new hoses also.
I just have the 3 questions above for now. But if you think I should do another thing or 6 first let me know. Just concerned about the motor right now, rest of the beast later.

I dont think you can really do anything until the new plugs are wires are installed.
The tick could be leaking spark from a plug wire.
As for the code scanner, I recommend one of these www.ultra-gauge.com, or you can go super cheap and get a basic one for about $30, but all it will do is read/clear engine codes.
The Ultra-Guage also gives you live data which is great for diagnosing stuff, like engine temps and O2 sensors.

EDIT:My mom's '08 Ford Escape with the 2.3L engine also ticks, it has 87k on it and it has ticked since new, its worse when hot, they all tick if you pay attention to them.

You can go as simple as something like this one.

Actron/OBD II code reader for 1996 and newer vehicles (CP9125) | Code Reader | AutoZone.com

More features = more money. I own this tool and it works for what I want it for, you may want more features. It's your money to spend, not mine.

I agree with the above, new plugs and wires first. I would also do the fuel filter, and probably air filter if it needs it. The fuel filter IMHO is a must do, along with plugs and wires.

There is no serviceable fuel filter on the DII.

Yep, that is correct. I keep forgetting that flaw. I work on a couple DII's for friends, both have fuel filters added in line so I guess I'm just used to seeing them.

They sold me a fuel filter, guess thats 8 bucks I can put back in my pocket.
The reader shows 11 codes.
Plug wires had to be ordered, so later this week on them.
Judging from the codes, I got a loose wire or bad injector also
The MAF and 4 02 sensors are also on my to do list.
All things I can use on another motor if this one is toast.

P0202-Injector circuit open cylinder 2
P0300-random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0302-cylinder 2 misfire detected
P0307-cylinder 7 misfire detected
P0134-02 sensor ckt, no activity, bank 1 sensor 1
P0118-engine collant temp circuit high input
P0306-cylinder 6 misfire detected
P1590-idle air control and speed sensor ??
P1300-random emmission other cylinders are misfiring ??
P1319-misfire with low empty fuel drive cycle ??
P1668-Powertrain code engine auto theft signal circuit high serial link open circuit ??

The P1 codes I found on the site, but uncertain if they are accurate as I found multiple definitions.

So this week be the new plugs and wires, maf and 02 sensors, see if that clears some of the codes and go from there.

You only need the front O2's, they are the ones that control engine fueling, the rears are what tell you if the cats are not working.
But hold off on the O2's, do the plugs and wires first, 95% of O2 codes on these things is because of the misfire's sending to much raw fuel down stream.
Running out of gas will also set off misfire codes as well as O2 codes.
So start with the plugs and wires and a throttle body cleaning and air filter.
Then clear the codes, drive it and see what comes back if anything.
It takes about 400 miles for a complete drive cycle, big problems will set off the CEL earlier than that though.

Will do that. I did grab the seafoam for the tb cleaning also.
Do you gap these +4 plugs at all? Or just make sure none are obviously out of gap?

No gapping needed on +4 plugs

Ummm - SeaFoam liquid goes in fuel, intake via vac hose, or oil; but none of those clean the throttle body. You'll need a spray for that (buy some thing that is rated for throttle body). And hold off cleaning the IACV and MAF which you will be reading about until later. If a newbie works on too many things at once, results may not be what you want.