Agree, bang for the buck, long term, go top hats. Alternatively, you could find a junkyard engine real cheap and swap out, as you seem mechanically inclined. Fix the original at your convenience and have ready to replace back, when needed. Assuming no problem with replacement engine in the short term.

 

Hi guys

Ok so I started stripping the engine. 6.5 hours to pull everything off just to get to the rocker arms. So my valve covers are off and seeing as I need to get down to the block I'm wondering - is there a way to remove the head (rockers and maybe even cams all together) or so I need to remove all rocker arms, springs etc etc.

Then get to heads and repeat with cams.

I'm totally over my head but giving it a go anyway!

 

I should thank you all for your advice too. Given the the engine had been rebuilt a few months back new crank, rods (cylinder liners and piston tops were not replaced) only rings,based on your advice I've decided to Get my block machined with top hat liners new pistons, rings, gaskets, leads, coil, hoses, oil pump water pump. I wouldn't say it's a top job as I'm not going to replace everything but it's half way there with all liners replaced.

Yesterday I had decided only to replace one liner and one new piston but at this stage Having spent this much time to get this deep I decided that I may as well do all liners. I'm going to try and keep the crank and crank bearings in place and keep as much of the valve train intact as possible. Hence my question above about how to most easily get from rockers to block with dissembling minimal componentry.

Thanks

 

If you are removing the block to send off for tophats, it would be easier to detach from exhaust manifolds, detach motor mounts, detach electrical looms (don't forget sensors down low and starter) , fuel supply (under coils), alternator removed, a/c compressor laid to side(air cleaner box is perfect cradle), hose from air cleaner, throttle and cruise control detached, coolant hoses (don't forget throttle heater), vacuum lines.

There should be two eyelets, one at front of one head and other at rear of other head for attaching hooks/straps/chain for lifting block out. With or without the transmission is up to you. After removal do: The heads, lower intake manifold, front cover, timing chain, oil pump, oil pan, oil sump, camshaft (slow and easy, don't nick or scratch), bearings, crankshaft, and pistons.

Alternatively, keep removing what you can, top end, and replace some bolts on bare block to attach lifting device. If you want to remove heads in truck, remove the four bolts holding rocker assembly (one each in between rocker pairs), remove intake manifold and exhaust manifold (exhaust bolts tend to snap easy, spray lubricant early and heavy, square up on bolt when applying muscle). Headbolts are 5/8, use quality impact sockets with breaker bar and cheater pipe on the end. Firewall interfers with nearest bolts, use quality impact swivel with extentions.

Label all bolts (punched through sheet of cardboard keeps organized), label and replace pushrods in same hole removed from (some may have different wear pattern).

Good luck with removal.

 

thanks Palmettodisco,


Your advice is spot-on. I started at 10am yesterday and finished at midnight less a 2 hour 4th july family-break.


Ive pretty much followed your advice but I cracked open the A/C lines! and only after that watched a british atlantic you tube video of how to keep it intack and flop it onto the airbox. I guess that i'll need to recharge it later!


You advice is so spot-on. I was so concerned about snapping or burring those head-bolt and yes in situ removal makes it sooo difficult with those corner bolts but I got them all off without hiccup about 11pm last night. My goal was to see the bores which I do. Tonight I'll try remove the front cover, jack under gearbox, bellhousing bolts off so that the block is able to be lifted out by me and another burly dude (I don't have an engine hoist right now). iff to heavy ill buy one.


So amazing that the bore where the piston got shredded is ever so slightly scored. like we are talking maybe 0.1 of a milimeter but at this stage I've made the call to put in the top hat liners and try get 10 years out of the car. I was turning the crank by hand via a 10 inch ratchet and the engine was spinning freely without grinding or noise. Still I am going to pull the front cover to ensure that no aluminium flakes got anywhere they shouldn't


Abran's advice rocks, I called Q&A in Anaheim CA as he suggested and spoke to Vance there who does top hat liners installed for $1500. Hi will also assemble the short block for $750 which is a real option for me if I get 'scarred' to do the assembly myself. Remember I'm a complete novice don't know much about tolerances, clearances, where to put assembly lube etc.


weird question - when I pulled the valley gasket I found that someone? had cut little windows above where the cams meet the lifters along the entirety, like with a dremel tool or something. I'm not sure if it was to enable lubrication on the wear points, release case pressure or what. Can anyone educate me?


Lastly head studs - im trying to get good life out of this - ARP..? any other recommendations.


if anyone is interested in pics of damage or build PM me and I can share.


thanks

 

Stick with it and you'll learn some. Download a copy of the RAVE workshop manual which is online here. When you get to the rebuild stage re-post and I'm sure the guys will walk you through the timing and set up. Good luck.

 

This is where the piston side impacted the liner screw on downstroke. Don't ask me why the previous owner screwed through the liner in the middle

 

The bare aluminum block is relatively light, the crankshaft and camshaft will add a few pounds, shouldn't be a problem. You can drop the crankshaft through the bottom, if necessary (if by yourself and too heavy).

Don't worry about assembly lube, just high quality engine oil, more or less. Anything that's coated in engine oil now is okay for assembly lube to touch. Don't worry about cleanup in such cases (but don't let dust collect on fresh oil). Apply liberally on contact surfaces, bearings, crankshaft, camshaft, pushrod tips, etc. It's awhile away, yet, but remember to prime the oil pressure before startup.

You can wipe the block off for shipping, but don't worry about it too much, they should dip the block in cleaner first thing. Start thinking about how to ship it, wood crate perhaps. You could bolt it to a wood pallet and wrap good.

 

Ok quick update on pricing for anyone who is looking at doing this. British Atlantic parts are $2500 and that does not include valve train componentry which I am reusing. The machining and tophats is $1500 from Q&E. Even though it was rebuilt earlier this year ive opted on new cam chain and gears, water pump, oil pump coil packs, leads and plugs and also all new radiator hoses and belts so I can basically not have to worry on serious engine part change outs for 50k miles.. Once I factor in some additional costs like powdercoating some bits and pieces Im up for about $4500 total with me doing all the work. By the way I went with a head gasket kit but upgraded to ARP bolts for an extra $200.


On the topic of changeouts im trying to bring the temp of the engine down. Was running at 200-210f and 224 when hot out when idling.


Can anyone recommend (OR NOT?) a larger upgrade radiator? I have read conflicting advice but nothing defintitive. I understand the copper guts of the stock radiators have better thermal conductivity than Aluminium so you need a larger 4 core ali radiator at least to match it but someone out there must be manufacturing something? Also ive already done the soft-close lower temp Tstat kit.

 

You shouldn't need a larger radiator. When everything is back to tip-top shape the factory radiator will be adequate. It may be near the peak of its efficiency, but it works fine if it and the rest of your cooling system is up to snuff, which will be the case when it's all back together.

Don't be afraid of Temps around 210 on occasion, this is operating temp for most modern engines. Anything under 200 for extended periods is well within normal.

On the other end of the spectrum, operating Temps under 180 are too low. As long as your system will stay within this range (which it should if working correctly), there's no need to blow away. Unless you just really really want to lol
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