SLS Conversion battery drain
 

Recently swapped out my SLS for coils. My battery was draining due to the computer thinking it still has the SLS and trying to inflate the air springs that aren't there. I took it in to get the computer set to coils. That should fix it right? Nope. Still getting the SLS warning lamp and the battery is still draining. Took it in again and said it's still draining. They hooked it up again and actually showed me the setting being changed from SLS to coil springs. That will definitely fix the issue right? Nope, again. Anyone have any clever ideas or other work arounds to keep me from getting stranded and replacing my battery every 90 months...?

If you look in the RAVE, and I also believe I posted on this before, there is a common ground from the valves that is under the hood, shares a stud with the ground from the fuel pump. Remove the ground (leave one for fuel pump) and the SLABS can't cycle them.

sEE https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...00/#post306803

btw, The SLABS is trying to level the truck during the night. Removing the common ground makes that happen no matter what the program.

Pull the main fuse and relay in the engine compartment.

Mike's idea will take out the pump, but those darn valves come straight from the SLABS, and it sends (+) volts to them, and it passes through that common ground. The pump uses the fuse and relay Mike mentioned, and also uses the same common ground. With pump disconnected, it will still operate the valves in a vain attempt to keep leveling the truck when shut down.

Pull the main fuse

re: replacing my battery every 90 months...?

Wish mine would last that long ...lol

They aren't being successful in their programming for whatever reason. Perhaps they have another computer? I think some of the dealer setups have a laptop and a hand held. Maybe they can try with the other, if it has that option.

Savannah Buzz, touche, don't we all...

jafir, this guy used a handheld. Are you saying the computer driven type might have more features?

As stated above, the fuel pump shares the ground with SLABS, one of the terminal is actually attached to the nut itself. I'm not sure which one is which, so I will try the one that is free of the nut. If the car start, I chose wisely, if not, I swap. Either way, I will be relieved when I can depend on my car starting again.

Thanks all!!!

Don't have to crank, just turn key to see if you hear pump run for a second or two.