Hi guys. Had the mechanic put in shocks, brakes, and a fan clutch. Used sales guy bridged the "shut off" switch to lock out the back window buttons (ran a line all the way to the panel). Everything worked fine (needed a catalytic converter as one rattles inside/blocks exhaust). Anyway - windows and all worked - power problems if you gunned it due to junk in catalytic converter. I dropped off to mechanic for shocks/brakes/fan clutch. It SAT. Then had a HELL of a time starting. first - no clicking - nothing. Jumper didn't help. Then - day after day they made mild progress. I just picked it up - BARLEY started and runs AWFUL - stalls. </P>


95 Disco 3.9L - Leather/dual roofs - automatic. All pretty standard stuff.</P>


ANY IDEAS??????</P>


Thanks.</P>


Jude.</P>


jude@goldenseacoast.com </P>

 

Well, several things spring to mind to check.</P>


Firstly, if you were getting no sound when turning the key, or, a slow turn of the starter motor, then that is an electrical fault. Most likely earthing somewhere it shouldn't be. Plus, if it is earthing, that maybe affecting the ECU.</P>


Secondly, as you said the cat is shot, just remove it and replace with a straight pipe if the garage you took it too have one.This is so you can test to see if the cat is blocking the exhaust system now. If it is, your sensor on the exhaust system maybe picking up higher readings, and therefore the ECU is making adjustments to fuel etc.</P>


Let us know how you get on, and welcome to the forum</P>

 

Yes - originally it wouldn't start. Now it has a ton of trouble and runs HORRID. Very choppy - stalls, etc. Also - the valve lash has gotten even worse. I wonder if its the timing chain - but I think the mechanic would've known.</P>


Ugh!</P>


Thanks for any help. This forum's GREAT. Glad I found it. Its even better than the old one.</P>


-JA</P>

 

OK - FULL new exhaust End to END. I have NO POWER and its sputtering like hell - low idle, etc. What happened!</P>


Help!</P>


-JA</P>

 

did you replace the oxy sensors when you replaced the exhaust?they can give similar problems.if not try unpluging them and restarting the truck.do it one side at a time so you can tell which one is bad if either of them are the truck will run better.your ecm will run without the oxy sensors hooked up just don't do it for long periods of time.you can also check your mass air sensor the same way it can make your truck have no power at lower rpms.</P>


is you starter working everytime now?</P>


you can try phil p at http://http://www.motorcars-ltd.com/...n/Ultimate.cgifor more help</P>


</P><edited><editID>dirtryjim</editID><editDate>38202.8698611111</editDate></edited>

 

Hi,
I am desperately trying to get help with my 1996 Disco. I purchased it last year and got a lot of problems with it. After spending about $3,000.00 in repairs and maintenance, it ran fine. Then, I noticed when I am driving at speeds between 50 and 60 mph, the gas felt like it was choking (hesitating), so I had to pump the gas pedal just to get it off the highway. My mechanic said it was the fuel pump which we replaced right then and there but a few days later it happened again, this time it was really bad! Took it back to the mechanic and he test drove it on the highway for a long time, came back and said he noticed nothing wrong with it.

A few months later, it is now starting to happen again. I always use the high octane gas from Chevron per the Land Rover dealership's advice. Does anyone have any idea what else this could be as I am on the verge of getting rid of the truck all together...but I still love it. Thanks!

 

I dont know if you can do this or at least get a friend to help

Assuming the engine management system is a Lucas 14CUX which I think it will be then if you have a multimeter you can do quite a lot of tests yourself

Download the article 'Testing the RR classic Lucas 14cux efi setup' from
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/barnes_firsnorton/lr_efi/

The prime culprits for this behaviour are the temperature sensor you should measure the resistance of this when hot it should be around 280ohms, then check the lambda sensors are switching voltage correctly again when hot. If you go to the following site www.lambdasensor.com it explains how, then could be worth changing leads and coil. If that hasn't fixed it then you might have to get a dealer to run the diagnostics on it to give you an idea.

If you take the connector off the ecu then it will reset the ecu and you may find it runs better for a bit which would allow you to do the above tests.

Good Luck
jj