Thanks all for the help on the brakes. Decided to move on to the next need: transmission fluid change. Dealer wants $250, others say they could do it for $100 but there is a special tool that they dont have that releases the line from the cooler. Anybody have some experience with this (DiskoMike?)? They do a full change (14qts) like the dealer.

Also, mobile1 full synthetic or plain fluid?

 

Mobil 1.
Just drain the fluid and then repalce with new fluid. DO NOT do the flush, it can dislodge crude and mess things up. That is what they are wanting to do, they remove the trans cooler lines from the radiator, hook them up to a machine that back flush's the transmission, the problem is that everything that is trapped in the trans filter gets back washed out of the filter and can cause problems.
The dealer might actually drop the pan and replace the filter and that is why it costs so much more.

 

I will be glad to walk you thru it, using no more then 6 quarts of fluid, no filter per Rover and 20 minutes time.

 

edit-->I would't pay either of those prices. Changing the fluid is actually pretty straight-forward because the Rovers have a drain plug...lots of cars don't and you have to drop the pan to refill it (or try pumping it out through the dipstick tube...which I've never tried).

but even doing the filter is not that big of a deal. It's three torx bolts to get it down and off. Even dropping the pan isn't too big of an ordeal, although I must admit I'm not a huge fan of the clamp system they used.

I'm not sure what Mike's advice is on the tranny drain/refill...but I'd recommend going to your local Wally-World. In the automotive section they should sell two different types of pumps. One is a hand pump that costs around $10 and it will work nicely to refill the fluid in the transmission.

 

Pumps are not needed, just 6 bottles of a good Dextron 3 and 1 foot of 1/2' tubing.

 

Mike,

Why the ixnay on the transmission filter?

I was getting ready to do this myself and am curious.

 

word on the street is...Rover only recommends a filter change at 30K and no further change is necessary. Technically I can't see where it would hurt, especially if you have no proof that it was ever done.

As far as pump vs. hose...either way I guess. The pump worked out pretty well for me and with the size of the hose it came with and the force of the thing I would bet it would be stellar for changing the differential and transfer case oil as well...Trying to tip that bottle up while it's banging on the frame is a pain in the buttocks.

 

I am kind of surprised that it wouldnt be better to change it fully out, but I guess I can see how it could knock things loose. So the manual says to remove the drain plug, replace the plug using a new seal, remove the fill plug, fill it up, go through the different gears, thenfill it some more with the engine idling until it spills over and put the fill plug back. Sounds simple. Is that what ya'll suggest I take it? I'll give it a try.

 

Thats it, not much to it. After you get it filled and have ran it through all the gears and checked the level again, drive it for a day and then recheck the fluid level.
If you really want to get all the old fluid out then change it again in a week.
Otherwise it is pretty simple and cheap to do so just do it once a year.
Dont forget your diffs and t-case too.

 

I just did this and it was just like the others stated. 6 quarts and I used a $6.00 hand pump purchased from a Napa.