STILL overheating!
#1
STILL overheating!
2000 D2. New rad (was definitely blocked up), new 180 degree t-stat, new water pump, new hoses, new reservoir cap, flushed heater core. Chem test was negative (I can redo, but I can see that the HG is leaking a small amount). Pressure tested 16 PSI for 15 mins.
Still overheating. Now, I can see a slow drip of coolant around cyl 8. I bled the coolant system this morning while the engine was cold. Opened the bleeder screw, held tank abover engine while adding coolant, until I saw a steady flow of coolant from the bleeder. Put tank down, reinstalled bleed screw.
Brought the truck up to temp in my driveway. At idle, it settled in at about 197. At 1.5-2k RPM, temp went down to 188. Let the truck idle again, watched temp creep up to 197, got truck nback up to 1.5-2k RPM, temp back down to 188. Did this a few times, then decided to take it out for a short drive. About 1 mile into my drive, temp shot up to 220. Shut it down.
Also, it may be worth noting, that heat in the truck was very hot, until engine temp started rising. Heat went from very hot to stone cold, in a matter of seconds.
Came back a few hours later to grab the truck, bled the system again in the parking lot, drove it home, and repeated the above cycle again. My results were the same - 197 at idle, 188 at 1.5-2k RPM.
At no time did I hear the infamous gurgling, nor do I see a significant amount of white smoke in my exhaust. There is some, but it's tough to discern whether or not it's just the cold weather.
I know that my head gaskets are on their way out. Like i said, I can see a small drip at cyl 8. I don't want to send in any of those "head gaskets in a bottle" remedies, because I've heard that they can do more harm than good, while only briefly prolonging the inevitable.
Is it that I'm not bleeding the system properly/enough times? Is a slight drip enough to introduce enough gas into the system to cause these problems?
My hope is that I can drive it in it's current state for the Winter and do the HGs when the weather warms up again. Is that a realistic expectation? I intend to driver it 30-40 miles per day, but at this point, I'm nervous about driving it at all.
Last, the truck has 192k miles on it. I really would like to keep it, but at this point, given that it needs tires, upper/lower ball joints, and a few other miscellaneous things, I'm wondering if it's worth keeping.
Thoughts?
Still overheating. Now, I can see a slow drip of coolant around cyl 8. I bled the coolant system this morning while the engine was cold. Opened the bleeder screw, held tank abover engine while adding coolant, until I saw a steady flow of coolant from the bleeder. Put tank down, reinstalled bleed screw.
Brought the truck up to temp in my driveway. At idle, it settled in at about 197. At 1.5-2k RPM, temp went down to 188. Let the truck idle again, watched temp creep up to 197, got truck nback up to 1.5-2k RPM, temp back down to 188. Did this a few times, then decided to take it out for a short drive. About 1 mile into my drive, temp shot up to 220. Shut it down.
Also, it may be worth noting, that heat in the truck was very hot, until engine temp started rising. Heat went from very hot to stone cold, in a matter of seconds.
Came back a few hours later to grab the truck, bled the system again in the parking lot, drove it home, and repeated the above cycle again. My results were the same - 197 at idle, 188 at 1.5-2k RPM.
At no time did I hear the infamous gurgling, nor do I see a significant amount of white smoke in my exhaust. There is some, but it's tough to discern whether or not it's just the cold weather.
I know that my head gaskets are on their way out. Like i said, I can see a small drip at cyl 8. I don't want to send in any of those "head gaskets in a bottle" remedies, because I've heard that they can do more harm than good, while only briefly prolonging the inevitable.
Is it that I'm not bleeding the system properly/enough times? Is a slight drip enough to introduce enough gas into the system to cause these problems?
My hope is that I can drive it in it's current state for the Winter and do the HGs when the weather warms up again. Is that a realistic expectation? I intend to driver it 30-40 miles per day, but at this point, I'm nervous about driving it at all.
Last, the truck has 192k miles on it. I really would like to keep it, but at this point, given that it needs tires, upper/lower ball joints, and a few other miscellaneous things, I'm wondering if it's worth keeping.
Thoughts?
#3
I bought a D2 in March 2012 with an HG problem in Boulder CO.
When first inspecting it - we had white smoke out the back.
Put in Barr's leaks and it got rid of the white smoke and the Cylinder 1 misfire.
I did that - just to buy some time.
Make the Rover sort of drivable.
Still had water fall sound and huge pressure in radiator hoses.
only changing the Head Gaskets solved the problem.
When first inspecting it - we had white smoke out the back.
Put in Barr's leaks and it got rid of the white smoke and the Cylinder 1 misfire.
I did that - just to buy some time.
Make the Rover sort of drivable.
Still had water fall sound and huge pressure in radiator hoses.
only changing the Head Gaskets solved the problem.
#4
Head gasket stop leak liquids have a problem clogging up radiators that are already partially clogged. You have a new one, so that won't be much of an issue. Use of something like Kseal just might get you thru to warmer weather. MIGHT is the operative word. Would also want you to have an Ultra Gauge or such to keep eagle eye on temps. Oh, and those four little holes in the top of the thermostat, the stop leak can go after those also. Stop leak is a mindless chemical, any small hole will do.
#5
Head gasket stop leak liquids have a problem clogging up radiators that are already partially clogged. You have a new one, so that won't be much of an issue. Use of something like Kseal just might get you thru to warmer weather. MIGHT is the operative word. Would also want you to have an Ultra Gauge or such to keep eagle eye on temps. Oh, and those four little holes in the top of the thermostat, the stop leak can go after those also. Stop leak is a mindless chemical, any small hole will do.
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Dee Quirod
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11-05-2012 03:12 PM