With the CDL locked, the Traction Control will emulate front and rear limited slip differentials by limiting slip of the wheel that has the least amount of traction at each axle. It will not behave as a proper locked differential.

Sorry for not answering your question.

 

Just because you've never had an issue doesn't mean that it cannot happen.

I've seen the end result of a shift in brake bias to 100%/100% F/R and what it leads to in inexperienced hands, both with and without ABS. If you're going to advise people on how to disable their ABS, you should also include the caveat regarding the lack of bias, and it's potential risks. It's the responsible thing to do.

 

Interesting thread, but even if the bias was shifted, I'm not sure how dangerous it would be when wheeling in low range at 3 mph.

The only time the TC/ABS would be disabled is when the CDL is engaged, and if your rolling with your CDL on at highway speeds your going to have bigger issues.

The reason I'm interested is because I'm doing the CDL update and I'm thinking of putting a switch in-line with the CDL-activation wire so that I'd have a bit more control over if the TC is on-or off without doing the CDL-shift voodoo dance everytime the car is turned off and back on (which in Moab can be quite often depending on obstacles and size of group).

Not to completely hi-jack the thread, but Disco Mike, running with the TC/ABS/HD lights on is essentially the "3 Amigos", do I run the risk of setting the permanent 3-Amigos code if I decide to wheel with my TC disabled?

 

No, not at all, the next time you disengage the CDL and restart the engine, the lights will clear on their own.
By the way, what CDL linkage will you be using, if a D1 then also consider replacing the Hi/Lo shift plate from your D2 with one from a D1. By doing this, you eliminate the need for bending the shift linkage to fit and your shifter will be more vertical as in the D1 then laying to the left without the plate.

 

Very true, but as I said my greater concern is what would happen in inexperienced hands. People who know what they're doing, and adjust accordingly, this isn't about them.

The truth in the matter is that throughout the course of history, people have been known to do some monumentally stupid things, up to and including the eventual Darwin Award.

All it would take is someone looking to disable their ABS because "I can do a better job than ABS could, to hell with this! YOLO!" and while driving in the snow have their rears lock up before the fronts do at an inopportune time (like on an off-camber decline, etc.)... suddenly it turns into "well I read how to do it on LRF and they didn't say anything about this bias nonsense!", and everything that goes along with that train of thought.

In short: Stupid people ruin everything, this is for their benefit so at least if they still decide to do this, they might remember the chance of premature rear lockup, however slim it may be. And if they don't, well, we told you so.

 

Everyone one is aware that in general use, your 3 Amigos can come on do to any of 16 reasons, is it safe to stop, should I not drive it??? You still have stopping power to all wheels, just not the benefit of the computer system balancing out the stopping power so yes, it is possible to lock up a wheel, yes but you will normally always stop only difference is the stopping distance. If this was a danger to the driver, believe me there would be all sorts of back up systems and warning posted all over the truck regarding the dangers of ABS failures. It is not written up in the owners manual.
So all that being said, you have never had this happen to you in a D2, nor has anyone ever posted a question/concern regarding this so lets stop putting this false information on here causing people undo stress.

 

Whatever man, rose colored glasses and all of that.

I got your threat PM, carry on.

 

Mike, I'll be using the D1 shifter. If you recall, I had a thread where I had to un-seize it, as it had been corroded stuck due to years of non-use.

I'm planning on taking a photo of my entire 'kit', and letting you guys who have done the job before tell me if I need to source any more parts. I'll post it in a new thread, obviously, so I won't derail this one too much.

I believe I have the shift plate, but I'm not sure I understand the official name of all of my parts. I'm also thinking about buying the spherical rod eye-bearing and attaching it to the linkage so I won't need to bend it....at least according to threads I've read by people who have done it.

Still sourcing some 12V power sockets to install near the center console, so I'm in no hurry to install the CDL quickly. Let me know if there is anything else I need to be doing while the center console is ripped apart.

 

So with the three amigos the brake biasing is lost correct? Aren't there tons of Disco 2s rolling around with 3 amigos on? If thats the case wouldnt we hear of alot more Disco 2's loosing control and spinning out?

The rear brakes may or may not get the full stopping power, but the calipers, pads and rotors are smaller in the back to compensate for the less traction available due to weight shift forward.

 

Yeah, I would think the biggest danger to 3 amigos is the general lack of ABS. In todays world, young drivers have NOT had any experience in a vehicle without ABS, they are taught to hold on the brake pedal during an emergency stop (To let the ABS do its thing) and that is what you DONT want to do in a non-ABS vehicle.

The ABS modulator on my ZJ went out about the second year I owned it. Never bothered to get it fixed, I just realized I could slide on heavy braking. Then again, I'm not sure about modulation, the ZJ was probably fine whether the ABS was in or out.

But I'm with you, with dealers quoting over $1k to fix the 3-amigos, I doubt the average Joe is even going to bother fixing it. We are the exception to the rule when it comes to car maintenance. The average joe isn't going to change Rotella every 3-7k and grease a drive shaft. They're going to drop 5w20 motor oil from PepBoys and drive the disco until the engine blows up, then dump it.