Some more questions regarding water crossing preparations. I have a Mantec raised air intake so airflow to the engine is covered. Last week however I pulled out the ecm for the first time and had to wonder why Land Rover fitted it so low in the vehicle. The blower motor, power seat motors, CD changer and other electronics beneath the seats are also a concern. What precautions can I take to ensure that these electronics do not come into contact with water during a water crossing? Do the door seals prevent water from entering the cabin? Is there any way to waterproof the ecm and other electronics? Or would that creat a fire hazard?

 

What kind of water crossing are you anticipating?
As long as you don't go all Camel Trophy or get stuck you should be fine. Keep a decent bow wave and your momentum.

 

Ive never done water crossings before. I expect the deepest Id traverse is up to the bonnet. I just want to have a in depth understand of the limitations of my vehicle. When Im out on the trails alone, I need to reflect back on discussions like these. Have to be able to figure out when and where to cross, and when to find another route. How deep I can go etc.

Another thing is the approach to water crossings. Some folks say you should enter at an angle, while others say straighten out your vehicle and drive straight across. Some say engage low range and shift into 1st gear when doing a crossing, others say engage the low range to shift into 2nd gear during crossings.

Its also been suggested that the transmission, transfer case and axles have vent tubes that should be extended higher up to prevent water from getting into the system. I thought my truck only had a vent tube for the transmission? Which is up near the brake booster servo?

 

Always check your depth first in large crossings.
In this video I went in slowly till I was halfway across, presumably the deepest part. At that point it was steady speed to get across.

Same crossing one guy guns it right from the get go and kills it even with a snorkel. 2nd guy goes slower and steady and does fine.

Make sure your airbox is siliconed up as well as all connections. Extend your axle and other breathers into a manifold and then run a single line up into your snorkel nice and high.

 

Don't drive your Rover into water above the floor pan. It's just not worth it. If you look at the first video FishEH posted, the actual water level never went above the sliders, just splashes.

The Discovery is capable of swimming with water up to the seats, but you don't have one that you want to do that with. Mine is a lot rougher D1, and I still wouldn't submerge it. It's just not worth it. You do that stuff with a vehicle that doesn't have carpet anymore, that doesn't have leather seats, and you're not really going anywhere in. Anyone trying to make their vehicle go the distance isn't going to sink it.

With that said, I cross a river regularly. I get as deep as the top of the 16" rims on 33's with a 3 inch lift. I rarely get water over the bonnet, but when I do it's a wave not the water level. I don't have an airbox or a snorkel. I've never had water in the cabin. I've never had problems. The point being, you can do great water crossings without trashing your vehicle or soaking the Conolly leather seats in muck, and it doesn't take any special preparation. It just takes precaution.

The crossing I do are usually clear. I can see the bottom. I've walked it, and it doesn't go above my crotch. If it's running muddy, it would be over the roof. But if I did a muddy crossing in the shallow water somewhere, I'd walk it first. I carry a pair of muck boots. A pole of some kind to balance yourself on the uneven bottom and brace yourself against the current helps. You can also use it to gauge the depth in front of you before you step into a hole.

If you're not willing or able to make the crossing in boots, don't take the Rover across. It's great to take the little kids and ladies across without getting their feet wet, but remember you're not a lady.

 

I maintain my axle breathers with hose up to the hood level. I also keep good new seals on everything in the axles (the axles, the swivel *****, the stub axles, the drive flanges). If you do a significant number of crossings, you will still get water in the axles and swivel *****. The seals aren't good enough to keep it all out. You'll learn not to use expensive synthetic gear oil because you'll just be pouring out expensive milk.

 

Thanks for the useful tips. So I should avoid depths that rise higher than the floor boards? That sounds reasonably. Cheap lubs for the diffs makes sense if alot of water crossings are expected. What about the approach to bodies of water? Drive in straight or at an angle? Can we all agree on using low range with 2nd gear? and where are all the breathers? I think Ive seen one either behind the intake or maybe it was near the booster but not sure about the location of the other breathers.

Later this year I plan on replacing the seals in the diffs and transfer case. The TC is leaking small amour of lube as it is so all the more reason. Thanks again guys, much appreciated.

 

rave says 20 inch of water iirc