Throttle Body Heater Gasket Repair
 

This is the repair I did on a 2003 DII. I bypassed mine but the owner wanted the correct repair. This 2003 DII has only been service by LRNA and LRSA. I am the first untrained and un-certified person to touch this DII. It just got the full 60k mile service done a few months ago. It is in immaculate condition.....except the throttle body gasket. So....

If your throttle body heater looks like this
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_MIHIeqx3Uaw/Sy...0/PC100568.JPG
and you are loosing coolant, do the following repair.

This is without removing the throttle body.

1. Remove the air intake arm. Open the cap of the coolant tank to relieve pressure.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_MIHIeqx3Uaw/Sy...0/PC100570.JPG

2. Order part http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/MGM000010KG.cfm
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_MIHIeqx3Uaw/Sy...0/PC100574.JPG

3. Remove the crank case ventilation tube
4. Depending on the position of the clamps on coolant lines going to the plate, you can remove them now or later. I could only do the driver side first.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_MIHIeqx3Uaw/Sy...0/PC100575.JPG

5. Using a 5.5mm 1/4 inch drive socket, remove the two rear plate screws.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_MIHIeqx3Uaw/Sy...2/PC100578.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_MIHIeqx3Uaw/Sy...2/PC100582.JPG

6. Disconnect and set aside the vacuum lines
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_MIHIeqx3Uaw/Sy...0/PC100583.JPG

7. Remove the front plate screw
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_MIHIeqx3Uaw/Sy...2/PC100587.JPG

8. Take a rubber glove and cut off one of the fingers and cover the vent pipe for the valve cover
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_MIHIeqx3Uaw/Sy...0/PC100588.JPG

9. There is a good chance that after removing the screws, the plate will still be "stuck" onto the throttle body. Take a screw driver and lightly tap the plate until it falls off. Some coolant will be dispensed and some may be under pressure.

10. Inspect the inside of the throttle body heater plate. Still think Dexcool is safe?
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_MIHIeqx3Uaw/Sy...0/PC100592.JPG

I used two pliers to hold the plate steady and remove the coolant lines.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_MIHIeqx3Uaw/Sy...0/PC100601.JPG

11. Comparison of the new and old plate
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_MIHIeqx3Uaw/Sy...0/PC100608.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_MIHIeqx3Uaw/Sy...0/PC100609.JPG

12. Clean up everything. I used a wire brush and mild solution.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_MIHIeqx3Uaw/Sy...2/PC100611.JPG

13. Clean the underside of the throttle body too
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_MIHIeqx3Uaw/Sy...2/PC100616.JPG

14. Install new plate and position the clamps in such a way that you can remove them easier next time.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_MIHIeqx3Uaw/Sy...0/PC100617.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_MIHIeqx3Uaw/Sy...0/PC100623.JPG

15. Take the gasket and put a LIGHT bead of Permatex right stuff GREY. Both sides (that is what I used to seal the t-case swap and no leaks!!)
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_MIHIeqx3Uaw/Sy...0/PC100625.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_MIHIeqx3Uaw/Sy...2/PC100628.JPG

More pics
http://picasaweb.google.com/jycsalas...yHeaterRepair#

My throttle body heater plate was packed solid with crystals like that too when I did the repair. Wonder what that is all about.

Supposedly DexCool forms reddish muck when exposed to air for extended periods of time.

My TB leaked and thought it was red RTV before I did this fix.

Anyway, I've just tore apart my engine and didn't find any evidence of additional gumming.

Change it regularly, don't let unrepaired leaks drag on, and you should be ok.

I dumped the dex and just use prestone after I did my head gaskets. I think next flush I will change to either Zerex or Motorcraft G-05 yellow coolant.

Great write up... only thing I would add is replace those hose clamps with some worm drive clamps. Less likely to leak. Then follow Spike's advice and switch over to Peak Global LifeTime or similar coolant.

With the new gasket it should last a lot longer than the original.

That is correct... it should not have gummed up anything anywhere else except where it was exposed to air. The key is to change it regularly. in this case it wasn't changed for 60k miles.

I switched to Zerex cause they didn't have peak coolant at the store on my last flush two weeks ago.

Thanks, and I do agree with your suggestions however i want the thread to continue in discussion on the repair and not go off on "what coolant to use"

But I do recommend the worm drive clamps. i would have replaced the stock style clamps to worm drive type but I didn't have much time to do the repair and i didnt have a car to run to the store and get some.

AND like Spike, I too recommend PEAK.

Thanks for the Help!
 

I'm a newbee to the forum. I have an "03 Disco; had it since new. I'm trying to get my hands dirty and learn to do the repairs. This post on repairing the throttle body heater was absolutely the best instructional help I ever could have received. Now, I'm ready to do it! Thanks again, really.

you overdid the repair as usual as a DIYer.

remove the throttle body housing four bolts, take off connector and cables and dump the thing on its side and then take it off.

alot easier and takes half as much.