torque convertor
 

So I'll spare everybody the details and drama of my nightmare situation, but I'll try and make it brief.


My LR certified mechanic installed a rebuilt tranny for me. He mentioned that not only does the torque convertor need to be filled with fluid, but something about being laid horizontal (I could be wrong on this part) and then when mating the TC to the flywheel (again, I could be wrong here), there are something like four bumps or clicks that need to take place to ensure that the TC is installed properly. The tranny was then installed, fluids filled, test drove etc.


Four days after I received my '03 disco back, I heard a "zinging" sound coming from the engine/tranny area. I drove it back to my mechanic and he immediately stated it was a bad front pump. The vendor who sold me both the TC and tranny strongly disagreed. The vendor stated bad install on the TC created the noise....that the TC was never fully mated...off by millimeters. My mechanic argued that if it was off millimeters, the car would not drive.


My mechanic took photos of the TC after removal and splines look clean. My mechanic took a scope into the tranny and said he saw that the front pump was "messed up." Also, there were metal shavings on the bottom of the pan. And yes, the TC would be trashed because metal shavings from the front pump would find its way into the TC.


Ok...it is a case of "he said/he said," but if the splines are clean is this an indication that the TC is good? Any theories about the front pump issue?


Again, this drama is a very abbreviated version on what went down, but just wanna pick the brains of you veteran experts to get your opinion.


Thanks

A theory: your LRCM did not fully seat the converter on to the front pump, and it striped the splines on the front pump. A common mistake made by a DIYer but not for a LRCM. But it just a theory that i have seen a dozen or so times, with evey type of tranny.

This is quite possible. When I installed the TC on my truck, I was a wreck, it took me forever to line it up. I've never installed a TC on anything else, so maybe they're all that bad.

I imagine that the shavings were stuck to the magnet, right? Since the fluid starts from the pan and enters the filter (right?), I imagine anything between the filter and the source of the shavings is alright. I know that's not totally your question, but something to think about. Oh, and get a new filter on there if you end up using this transmission, just to make sure it's free of metal shavings.

I question some comments you mechanic says. If the TC is not totally seated, it'll kill the pump at some point. (the pump locks into the notches on the outside of the TC shaft opening, I believe, not on the inside of the TC. The splined components inside the TC are what actually drives the vehicle, and do not have to rotate with the TC, where as the pump is always being rotated with the TC. Those two notches "bump" over the matching groves on the front pump until there's sufficient damage) But people can drive the car around the block to almost 100 miles before that happens.

Also (correct me if I'm wrong) but don't you have to take the bell housing and the piece behind that before you can see the pump? Or can you run a camera up through the pan, past some junk?

Watch some YouTube videos that discuss automatic transmissions. if you need, I actually have a transmission out in the garage to snap some photos of.

I'm not a expert on LR but I know that the bell housing has to match up to the flywheel so if it's not mated correctly you can't install the engine because the torque converter will be pulled up to the flywheel, meaning if it didn't make both clicks or bumps then you wouldn't be able to install the four torque converter bolt. Personally and in my opinion the trans pump had to be bad.

It is well known if the autobox alignment is wrong it can wreck the oil pump easily. The autobox oil pumps do wear out but more often are damaged when rogue mechanics try to force the autobox into place. A phone call to Ashcroft is well worthwhile as they are an authority on LR autobox's

https://www.google.fr/search?q=ashcr...hrome&ie=UTF-8

As others stated, the front pump has failed. When installing the torque converter, there are a number of "clicks," but an even better method of knowing it is fully seated is to measure the depth of the flange that bolts to the engine's flex plate relative to the transmission bell housing. Ashcroft made a list of these depths and they vary depending on the numbers listed on the side of the transmission (left side of transmission, facing front of vehicle, above the transmission oil pan). I went through the nightmare of installing my torque converter a couple months ago when installing my rebuilt engine. That torque converter flange is sharp as a razor and had my fingers shredded and bleeding before I knew what happened. I know old chevrolet torque converters sure were easier to install.