Trick to cooler hose release rings?
#1
Trick to cooler hose release rings?
I'm in the process of replacing my Discovery II radiator, following the RAVE manual. So far so good. Until I went to remove the cooler lines. How in the @*@# do those cooler line release rings work? Do you push the plastic ring towards the radiator while pulling the line out towards the engine? Or do you pull the ring back towards the engine while also pulling the hose in the same direction?
Nothing I do seems to work with this damned things.
A little help?
Thanks,
Dan
Nothing I do seems to work with this damned things.
A little help?
Thanks,
Dan
#2
Here are some options to make your life easiery. But I would just replace all the clamps with worm drive hose clamps.
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...4&blockType=L4
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVE...motiveQ5fTools
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...4&blockType=L4
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVE...motiveQ5fTools
#3
Hi,
How are the release rings supposed to come off, though? What direction are they supposed to push in? All RAVE says is "push against the release rings". But, what direction?
The first link (Craftsman) didn't actually work, but I take it from the url you're suggesting breaking off the rings and replacing them with new clamps?
Thanks,
Dan
How are the release rings supposed to come off, though? What direction are they supposed to push in? All RAVE says is "push against the release rings". But, what direction?
The first link (Craftsman) didn't actually work, but I take it from the url you're suggesting breaking off the rings and replacing them with new clamps?
Thanks,
Dan
#5
Hi,
You dont have to break them off. A good set of pliers will release them. But as you let go they will tighten back up. Channel lock pliers seem to work best. Its still tuff. After I drained and replaced my coolant I replace about 90% of the clamps with traditional worm drive hose clamps. Much less frustrating and one small socket or screw driver can be used to tighten/loosen them all. Its up to you. but after fighting to get 3 off with channel locks you my find how much they suck...
Here is the Craftsman link again.
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...4&blockType=L4
You dont have to break them off. A good set of pliers will release them. But as you let go they will tighten back up. Channel lock pliers seem to work best. Its still tuff. After I drained and replaced my coolant I replace about 90% of the clamps with traditional worm drive hose clamps. Much less frustrating and one small socket or screw driver can be used to tighten/loosen them all. Its up to you. but after fighting to get 3 off with channel locks you my find how much they suck...
Here is the Craftsman link again.
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...4&blockType=L4
Last edited by bosshogt; 11-10-2010 at 11:55 PM.
#6
#7
Are you talking about the quick connect lines that go into the radiator or oil cooler? I think bosshogt is confusing you, he talking about hose clamps. I've never release the quick connect lines but there is a reason why they are called quick connect and not quick disconnect . Hope fully someone will chime in who has replaced their radiator.
#8
Chiming in, but not helping. I had the same problem with the cooler lines at the radiator when I replaced my engine 3 years ago. I couldn't figure out how the heck to disconnect them, so I left them attached, and unbolted the coolers from the radiator, moved them out of the way with the lines still attached to pull the radiator. It was kind of a backwards way of doing it, and would have been much easier had I been able to figure out how to disconnect the lines.
#10
Thanks. I'll try over at discoweb too. Currently awaiting approval.
Just to be clear, I'm attaching a photo of what I'm talking about. I don't think it's something that could be just cut off and replaced with a worm screw clamp. It's a connector that looks unlike any other.
Pretty disconcerting to hear that even skilled mechanics (which I'm not) can't get these @$%%*& things off. What a ridiculous design.
I read somewhere else that putting a little oil around and inside them can help budge them. Will try that next.
The biggest pain is really the location. It's such a narrow space, I can't get any kind of tool around it, so having to try and squeeze my hands in there and rely on pure finger strength. Which isn't working out very well.
So frustrating.
Just to be clear, I'm attaching a photo of what I'm talking about. I don't think it's something that could be just cut off and replaced with a worm screw clamp. It's a connector that looks unlike any other.
Pretty disconcerting to hear that even skilled mechanics (which I'm not) can't get these @$%%*& things off. What a ridiculous design.
I read somewhere else that putting a little oil around and inside them can help budge them. Will try that next.
The biggest pain is really the location. It's such a narrow space, I can't get any kind of tool around it, so having to try and squeeze my hands in there and rely on pure finger strength. Which isn't working out very well.
So frustrating.