Back story...

I was getting an ABS light for rear right sensor failure. Since I planned on replacing the rear bearings and wheels I didn't sweat the code.

Fast forward, I replaced the rear bearings and hubs, of course the kit came with new ABS sensors.

While I was there I also replaced the rear rotors and pads.

After a road test, I noticed that the brake peddle still had a squish for the first 1/2 to 1 inches when depressing and the 3 amigos came on.

I checked the code with my icarsoft lrII assuming I would see the same code as before, to my dismay or delight, I got a new code "ABS shuttle valve electrical failure".

Did a bit of research today before I purchase a Shuttle Valve switch and I came up with (4) questions that I couldn't find answers to on the forum.

1. Did my replacement of the rear ABS sensors cause the Shuttle Valve failure?

2. Do the Land Rover codes work from symptom to root cause? Example, the rear ABS sensor was never bad, that was a symptom of the shuttle valve being bad and if I replace the shuttle valve the issue might actually be the modular valve.

3. Because there was still a little squish in the peddle should I look into the modular valve replacement?

4. Will the ABS Amigo V1 USB sort this all out and no need to buy more parts?

 

the shuttle valve can leak over time and require a new one. The abs amigo will only tell you exactly what the computer is showing what's wrong. A lot of the issues stems from the circuit board inside the block and that's why a lot of people do option b of the abs bypass. All function will still work but you won't have to deal with the 3 amigos

 

I watched a video on how to replace just the Shuttle Valve switch and I also read up on the option b.

I am hoping to avoid bleeding the brake system otherwise I would have already started on option b. I did add another symptom that in my original post about the peddle still feeling slightly squishing which makes me think the might be another issue at hand and not just the shuttle valve electrical failure.

 

you wont have to bleed the system either way. The shuttle valve doesn't require you to remove any lines. You can get under it and remove the shuttle valve with basic Allen wrenches. That's how I did mine

 

Oh...The option B I read up on removed the brake lines from the module, good to know!

 

no that's option a. Option b is to undo the electrical connectors, the 3 screws with the isolator bushings and then lift up a bit and you will have enough room to undo the shuttle valve with regular Allen wrenches

 

roger that, thanks

 

no problem. I replaced my shuttle valve and didn't see any fluid on the old one so I used it for option b

 

I was confused as I watched the video on Atlantic British then read what I thought was option b.

So next steps would be NOT to replace the shuttle valve switch but, to do option B first. Is that a correct statement?

 

yea that's what I would say. Usually it's the circuit board in the block itself that is the issue. There is a kit out there somewhere to make it all seal better but option b works better and is easier in my opinion.