Tricky Dick - Shuttle Valve
#11
01-25-2017, 08:24 PM
Got it, will take at shot at it this weekend after I flush my transfer case
#12
01-25-2017, 09:29 PM
Comments embedded below.
1. Did my replacement of the rear ABS sensors cause the Shuttle Valve failure? Very doubtful, probably impossible.
2. Do the Land Rover codes work from symptom to root cause? Example, the rear ABS sensor was never bad, that was a symptom of the shuttle valve being bad and if I replace the shuttle valve the issue might actually be the modular valve. No. I don't see how (for these two faults anyway). Separate, coincidental faults.
3. Because there was still a little squish in the peddle should I look into the modular valve replacement? I'd first just bleed the system again before throwing parts at the squish.
4. Will the ABS Amigo V1 USB sort this all out and no need to buy more parts? The Amigo will do nothing more for you than read the codes you already have from the iCarsoft. No need to buy or borrow an Amigo.
Here's the current link to the Josh Salas, Land Rover Club V.I. write up from years ago on the topic of shuttle valve switch failure.
ABS Mod - LAND ROVER CLUB V.I.
You can jump to the Option B section or read the whole thing. Josh made a MAJOR contribution to DII owners with this and other of his work, but the write up is a stream of consciousness. It explains his path of discovery but there's more info than we now need, given he came up with Option B.
There are three possible causes of the SVS fault.
Some on this forum advocate making all three repairs, just to cover all the bases or on the assumption that with the seals now 13-18 years old you might as well replace them while the doing Option B.
In my case I'm a tightwad. I took the risk that if I removed the switches and found #1 or #2 above I would have to wait for parts but to me a few days with the truck out of commission or another hour of my time the following weekend was worth saving $100+ on my old truck. I gambled and won.
I removed the switches, inspected for brake fluid and tested the switches. No brake fluid was evident and the switches passed the tests so I did Option B. That was 45,000 miles and nearly six years ago and the truck is still AMIGO FREE.
The $730 kit AB sells corrects the same problem Option B does, but there is no way the AB lawyers would let AB tell you about Option B. Too much liability, plus AB is in business to sell parts. The failed solder joint gets replaced with the $730 kit, but a $3 connector, some solder and some heat shrink suited me better.
1. Did my replacement of the rear ABS sensors cause the Shuttle Valve failure? Very doubtful, probably impossible.
2. Do the Land Rover codes work from symptom to root cause? Example, the rear ABS sensor was never bad, that was a symptom of the shuttle valve being bad and if I replace the shuttle valve the issue might actually be the modular valve. No. I don't see how (for these two faults anyway). Separate, coincidental faults.
3. Because there was still a little squish in the peddle should I look into the modular valve replacement? I'd first just bleed the system again before throwing parts at the squish.
4. Will the ABS Amigo V1 USB sort this all out and no need to buy more parts? The Amigo will do nothing more for you than read the codes you already have from the iCarsoft. No need to buy or borrow an Amigo.
ABS Mod - LAND ROVER CLUB V.I.
You can jump to the Option B section or read the whole thing. Josh made a MAJOR contribution to DII owners with this and other of his work, but the write up is a stream of consciousness. It explains his path of discovery but there's more info than we now need, given he came up with Option B.
There are three possible causes of the SVS fault.
- The shuttle valve switches failed independently. Solution - buy a new SVS assembly.
- The shuttle valve switches failed due to leaking brake fluid. Solution - Buy new shuttle valve seals from Falconworks plus a new SVS assembly.
- The shuttle valve switches are fine and a faulty solder joint at the pins of the SVS circuit board is triggering the fault. Solution - Option B
Some on this forum advocate making all three repairs, just to cover all the bases or on the assumption that with the seals now 13-18 years old you might as well replace them while the doing Option B.
In my case I'm a tightwad. I took the risk that if I removed the switches and found #1 or #2 above I would have to wait for parts but to me a few days with the truck out of commission or another hour of my time the following weekend was worth saving $100+ on my old truck. I gambled and won.
I removed the switches, inspected for brake fluid and tested the switches. No brake fluid was evident and the switches passed the tests so I did Option B. That was 45,000 miles and nearly six years ago and the truck is still AMIGO FREE.
The $730 kit AB sells corrects the same problem Option B does, but there is no way the AB lawyers would let AB tell you about Option B. Too much liability, plus AB is in business to sell parts. The failed solder joint gets replaced with the $730 kit, but a $3 connector, some solder and some heat shrink suited me better.
Last edited by mln01; 01-25-2017 at 09:39 PM.
#13
02-04-2017, 06:05 PM
One more chapter closed
Option B was completed on the shuttle valve. Everything was dry so assumption was a bad circuit board. I didn't, test the board before hand, however I followed the steps linked in this thread and tested the shuttle valve afterwards and all was good.
Pretty simple, I got all the parts I needed from local auto parts store including the 2 wire connector.
Tools I used:
4mm Allen wrench
10mm socket or wrench
8mm socket or wrench
soldering iron
icarsoft LRII
multi meter
Large and thick flat head screwdriver for prying
Things I screwed up:
Wiper fluid hose
bracket for bracket for brake line
Option B was completed on the shuttle valve. Everything was dry so assumption was a bad circuit board. I didn't, test the board before hand, however I followed the steps linked in this thread and tested the shuttle valve afterwards and all was good.
Pretty simple, I got all the parts I needed from local auto parts store including the 2 wire connector.
Tools I used:
4mm Allen wrench
10mm socket or wrench
8mm socket or wrench
soldering iron
icarsoft LRII
multi meter
Large and thick flat head screwdriver for prying
Things I screwed up:
Wiper fluid hose
bracket for bracket for brake line
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