I being trying for the las 2 weeks to get the filler plug out of my rear differential to change the fluid , I tried spraying it with liquid wrench , let it soak, did not move at all, heat it up with my torch, still not moving, at last I tried with larger breaker bar, still not moving and its starting to get difformed, any ideas or I should give up and take it to a mechanic??

 

Have you tried "PB Blaster" it is by far the best penatrating oil on the market in my opinion. Spray it tap on it to help it work its way into the threads, leave it be for 20 minutes, Repeat... Do this several time and then try with a good 1/2 breaker bar that fits the plug well. You can also try the put pressure on it and with the other hand give the end of the breaker bar several solid raps with a hammer

Good luck..

Lefty Loosy
Righty Tighty

 

Are you using a proper sized 6 point socket? Is it the plastic plug? If it gets too rounded put a vise grip on it or use a damaged bolt socket. Once you get it off replace it with a new plastic or brass plug.

 

DI or DII??

 

If it is plastic like on a D2, order 2 new solid brass plugs with o-rings before you try and remove the old plugs.
If it is a solid plug, get a breaker bar, flex your ***** and loosen that plug.

 

It's a 96 D1 solid brass , yes I already have a replacement for it , replaced the ones on the front diff to and yes I'm using a breaker bar that fits tight,I'm going to try the pb blaster and a bolt plug . This sucks since everything else went pretty smooth tranny front diff,engine oil, trans case done now is just this plug that refuses to get out, I'm getting her ready for a trip to KEy west this coming thursday , and it will suck that this is the only thing I will need a mechanic for , so I'm giving it another try, any one in the Orlando - Central Florida area?? The truck is going to be heavy since we are going to be six passengers , my dog, and the roof rack with our luggage, went through the 60k service including 8mm magnecore cables and bosh+4 sparks, Kand N filter, lube propeller shafts, rad flush, all fully synthetic fluids , it has 169000, but now is running strong, I also painted my headliner, to match the interior so no more sag ever, and I blacked out my hood with krylon super flat camo paint. So I being pretty bussy since I got the Disco a month ago, it's just this rear diff filler plug testing my patience...

 

If you have a proper sized 6 point socket and a 24" breaker bar it will come off without rounding off. Is the plug head metric or SAE?

 

Its a DI he doesnt have a 6pt socket, he should have one that uses a 1/2 inch drive.
Have you serviced this before?? Do you think it was put on with an impact driver?? Getting pressure on it and rapping the bar with a hammer would be the poor mans impact wrench..

And like Mike says, its probably best to have a replacement handy if the plug is going to get mangled coming out.. You dont want to handicap yourself before your trip, there is probably oil in it now, unless the others were dry..

As for heat.. if its a Brass plug read this..

Physical Properties of Brass
Brass is an alloy generally composed of copper and zinc. Brass can also be made of copper and lead, but the brass used in cartridges is usually a 70/30 copper-zinc alloy. Unlike steel, brass is hardened only by 'work-hardening'. This is, for lack of a better term, the process of hammering and beating at it until it becomes harder and harder. As opposed to steel, which gains significant hardness when heated and then quenched, brass becomes far more malleable after having been heated. The long and short of it is: heat makes brass soft.

Just re-read your post..

Good luck.. Persistance is the key..

I had to buy an little "Grabbit" extracter kit yesterday to get a tiny little screw out of the door in order to get the pannel off, It was so small I should have been able to get it off with my teeth if I could have gotten my mouth on it, but it just wouldnt budge..

 

Oh its a square drain plug, my transfer case plug was tight like that and I almost rounded it off. Try tightening if first a hair to get it going and then reverse it out. Also as said above hitting it with a rubber mallet while turning helps too.

 

I realize that you just got the truck, but this is a very good example of why you need to check fluid levels every 6 months.
Not only to keep a eye on them but also to keep things from seizing.
Make sure that you also check the pressure in the spare as well as remove the lugs nuts that hold it on before your trip.