ok i ordered everything except the thermostat and petcock. i'll go pick them up locally. id like to do the glass view but it's pricey. for $15 I went glowshift. i'll update when i get the parts and am ready to go. got a second adaptor for the gauge i have doing nothing.

so is it 190 or 180 for me. or less in consideration of our environment here.

 

the colder the t-stat you use, the lower your milage will be.

 

yeah i just found that out. i probably wasn't listening. i have a 160 in the D1 and have been getting 12 mpg so maybe i should put a 170 in.

For the D2 I guess I'll go 180 unless anyone suggests differently.

 

I'm going to try and do this inline today or tomorrow weather and time permitting.

The 180 thermostat has the jiggle pin in it instead of the hole. It also may be a tad bit small although fits in the gasket of the t-stat holder snug. I'm going with that one to start.

I'm also going to use a 1/8npt plug for now instead of the release valve because that is what I have. Best would have been to use that seeing eye release valve but it's costly.

I'm tired of replacing coolant so I hope I don't need to change the thermostat or lose too much coolant when I put the valve in later.

Ideally, I'll stop losing coolant due to leaks and don't have a head gasket problem. We'll see.

 

Almost finished but it isn't clear to me the direction the thermostat needs to go. I think it's the opposite of this picture with the cone pointing towards the lower radiator hose inlet. OPPOSITE DIRECTION OF THE PICTURE I HAVE HERE. ie. the direction in the picture is incorrect.

Right?

 

For anyone else who gets caught in this predicament I had it happen the other day. I was able to order the T connecter and hose assembly complete from a place called British Pacific for $49.00 plus about $10 for shipping.

 

Jake...I eliminated that system completely.

OK, I finished the inline thermostat install...or so i THOUGHT.

I ran the truck and the temps started to climb. At 215 and rising I pulled over and carefully took out the npt plug I used temporarily in place of the petcock and the pressure forced steam out all over. So I think the pressure is good and there aren't any leaks. I got that going for me.

I think I put the thermostat in backwards or it's the wrong thermostat. I removed it and drove around a little and the temps were right around 175......nice.

So now I need to see if it was backwards or the wrong thermostat. I didnt drill a hole because it had a jiggle pin.

I was on my way to my radiator guy to get a look see over my job and maybe a system flush as it hasn't been flushed since I switched away from DEX about 3 months ago...so I should do that. I've only been using distilled water until I flush it so it's pretty clean anyway but there is a trace of coolant in the water...I could taste it.

The only way that I would continue to mess around with this myself is by having my Ultragauge monitoring temps at all time.

 

While you have the stat out, let SWMBO designate a suitable pan, and heat stat in water. You can confirm that it indeed opens. See pix, the spring end of the stat goes toward the direction the hot water comes from. Having a small hole drilled in the flange of the stat will allow water to circulate by the stat, allowing it to get hot sooner and open quicker. 1/8th or smaller. Once stat opens, and that can be scary at first because you see the digital temp, it will open close and eventually settle on partial open, in your warm weather it would be unusual for stat to stay closed most of the time.

 

Yeah Sava....I misunderstood what you said I guess and put it in the wrong way. I could tell by the speed to which it got to 215 and wanted to keep going before I shut her off. By the way, didn't leave the 3/9 o'clock mark on the dash. (Can't even remember which is which as they are opposite on the D2/D1.)

So I ran it without for awhile and as I said temps stayed around the 175 mark hitting 185-190 after I drove it awhile.

I figured I'd try the t-stat the other way and it worked well...peaking at 190 but staying around 185 or so, even when I left it running in the Walgreens for 12 minutes. SO it looks like I got it to work.

I didn't drill, I have the jiggle pin. I can't remember if you felt I should change it to a regular one and drill the hole out...or drill out the jiggle pin on this one.

I'm using straight distilled water and whatever very diluted coolant that didn't come out when I removed all the hoses. I think I'm going to take it to the rad guy Monday morning and have him do a professional flush to insure all the DEX is out (I never did a flush when I changed to green a few months back).

After that, I'll put in the 50/50 green and some waterwetter and see how she runs with the optimized setup.

Good?

 

Good. My only thought on the bypass hole is that it works like your hot water at home. First thing in the morning, there is hot water in the water heater, but cooler water between there and the shower. You turn on the water, and let it run to get hot water where you want it. The bypass hole does the same thing, brings hot water to where you want it.