I recently purchased an 04 Disco II with 105k on the dial. The car had about 2,000 miles put on it in about 18 months (according to carfax reports. IE: the last time the LR dealer saw it, and the time I bought it). I probably shouldn't have, but 2 days after I bought it I took it on a 2,300 mile trip before changing any of the fluids (the oil had been changed not to long prior to me purchasing and filled with 5w30)

Prior to purchasing I took it to my local LR dealer. They suggested I needed i need to replace the oil pan gasket, and xfer case gasket. Also to flush the radiator as Dex and Green had been mixed.

After reading the forum quite a bit and looking over the sticky threads on "Buying a used LR" etc. I have some questions, mainly on the order in which I should do things.

1. I'm seeing a small leak of oil above the oil pan on the driver side (left). I also see coolant from the same general location. In reading the forum, I think this might be a o-ring or gasket up in that general location. Not sure if it is related to the oil or not. (i might be combing things together as I am not a mechanic, but can follow instructions pretty well).

I'm getting a knock when idling, that clears when I accelerate. Actually when its rolling it is smooth as butter. I had the oil changed when I returned from the 2,300 mile trip. I just put regular 5w30 in, because i know i have to drain soon (cause of the oil pan gasket). I put a qt of MMO in the oil, and the appropriate amount in the fuel tank as well. This seems to be helping the knock

My thoughts are:
Is it worth doing a cooling flush with the leak? When I flush, what else should I replace? I've read the t-stat, anything else? I will be using Green after the flush. Also, I realize this can be done at home (although I don't know where to properly dispose of the old stuff), so I was thinking of just spending the $80 and taking to the lube place and having them do it with the machine. pros/cons?

I'm thinking of fogging my neighborhood for mosquitoes (I live in TX) by doing a seafoam treatment (and throttle body colonic). Should I do this before or after the coolant flush? Should I wait to do the seafoam until after the oil pan gasket/coolant leak is found/fixed?

What about an engine flush? I read something about putting some cleaner stuff (gunk or similar) with the oil, running, draining, waiting, filling with good oil and filter. I am open to suggestions on oil (not a debate, rather suggestions). I ran German Castrol (0w30) in my RRS and it was very nice, will the 4.6 Disco engine handle that? Its spendy, so I don't want to waste the money until the pan gasket is fixed, or on using it for engine flush.

After I get all this sorted, I'm open to suggestions for the rest of the fluids to change.

Sorry for the long post, I hope to get all this sorted out and a tip top shape power train, then the accessories go on :-)

 

My first thought is 5/30 oil is for winters below 30 degrees so quit using it.
Have you read my major service list posted at the top of this section, if not do so and follow it to the letter.
You need to crawl under the truck and make sure the front drive shaft has been rebuilt, in other words there should be 1 grease fitting on each of the 3 front u-joints, if not, that is the first item to address, it can and will fail if it hasn't been done and will take the tranny with it.
Make sure your replace the plug wires if they are grey, they are terrible and will cost you power and MPG.
As for your cooling system, don't waste money flushing it, our radiators can't be cleaned out over 100,000 miles so plan on replacing it along with a new t/stat and pressure cap.
As for your oil leak, need more information as to the exact leak.
Yes, flushing the engine is a good idea, Gunk is a safe way to go.
As for the noise, send me your number and I'll be glad to call and walk you thru what to check.

 

1.find the leak coolant or oil does not matter which one it need to be stopped. preasure wash the engine, then lay down some newspaper and see if it brown or green, take it from there.
2.stop running MMO in you oil and gas.
3.do not flush it until you know where the leak is, why do it twice?
4.replace t-stat, coolant recover cap and all your hoses they are 8-years old (i'm guessing.)
5.a lube place my change your coolant but they will not flush it to the extent that it need to be done.
6. has your drive shaft been rebuilt?
7. if you been dumping MMO into your engine i dont it needs to be flushed at this point.
8.try running a 10wt oil and see if that makes a difference with your knock/tic.
9.start at the top of the "major-service" sticky and work your way to the botttom.

 

Thanks guys.
DiscoMike, thanks for the offer... I will PM you my info (I was gone last week).

I plan on degreasing the engine tonight and narrowing down source of the leak... Seems to be somewhere above the oil pan on the left, front side of the engine. I was able to see more with the MAF removed. Like I said, I should know more this evening. Will try and grab pics too.

 

I tried to PM you, but the system said you don't accept PMs

 

I found 3+secret one fittings on the drive shafts, I suppose that means mine has not been rebuilt, and subject to the failure that is constantly mentioned here?