What did you do with your DII today?
#8851
Got to save another D2 from catastrophic driveshaft failure. This is a buddie's D2; he called me a couple months ago complaining with a chirping sound. I discussed it with him and recommended he quit driving it till it could be looked at.
Delayed by other obligations, and by him having a heart attack (triple bypass, full recovery thankfully), this weekend I was finally able to pull the shaft out of my D2 and make the drive up to see him. I pulled it out and it had one bad joint on each end. It looked fairly new, Lucky 8 driveshaft by the looks of it. They get mixed reviews and it's hard to complain for the price, but I styled him with my fresh rebuilt shaft that only had a couple thousand miles on it, and this one will be rebuilt with all new spicer joints to go back in my disco. Thank goodness he had a discerning ear and caught this one.
Delayed by other obligations, and by him having a heart attack (triple bypass, full recovery thankfully), this weekend I was finally able to pull the shaft out of my D2 and make the drive up to see him. I pulled it out and it had one bad joint on each end. It looked fairly new, Lucky 8 driveshaft by the looks of it. They get mixed reviews and it's hard to complain for the price, but I styled him with my fresh rebuilt shaft that only had a couple thousand miles on it, and this one will be rebuilt with all new spicer joints to go back in my disco. Thank goodness he had a discerning ear and caught this one.
The following 3 users liked this post by Alex_M:
#8852
Today, I fitted these little LED lights into the steel bumper. The holes were not made for the factory lights as far as I could tell so had to search around for something that would fill the void. Oddly enough I found these at the local Northern Tool store. I did splice them into the old existing fog light harness so they work with the factory upper dash switch. I need to wait until it gets dark to do final adjustments and get them pointed in a good direction.
The following 4 users liked this post by JoshD:
#8855
Got the 275/70/16 Yokahoma Geolander AT G015's mounted today. Definitely fills the fender wells better than the stock size. No rub with a 2 inch lift. Thinking they need a little more poke. Are 1.25 inch spacers the smallest bolt in spacers you can use without cutting the factory lugs? I think a 1 inch would be perfect.
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Richard Gallant (08-11-2022)
#8857
The following 2 users liked this post by Extinct:
Massrover (08-12-2022),
Richard Gallant (08-11-2022)
#8858
Looking good. As for spacers, you'll have to measure your lug studs to be sure. I'm not sure even 1.25" will fit without cutting, but they may.
Also make sure you use a quality spacer. I recommend BORA. They're pricy, but cheap spacers fail and you can lose a wheel going down the road. Personally I like the look without a spacer though. Rig is looking great.
Also make sure you use a quality spacer. I recommend BORA. They're pricy, but cheap spacers fail and you can lose a wheel going down the road. Personally I like the look without a spacer though. Rig is looking great.
Got the 275/70/16 Yokahoma Geolander AT G015's mounted today. Definitely fills the fender wells better than the stock size. No rub with a 2 inch lift. Thinking they need a little more poke. Are 1.25 inch spacers the smallest bolt in spacers you can use without cutting the factory lugs? I think a 1 inch would be perfect.
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JoshD (08-11-2022)
#8859
So after installing a new pump seal, and not seeing any wear on the torque converter shaft, it was smooth and shiny. I reassembled everything with a new flexplate and installed the tranny and transfer case, replaced the trans filter, filled it with Valvoline Maxlife and Lucas transmission additive, started it up, and didn't have any leaks while topping off the fluid. I shut it off and a few minutes later a drip from the bell housing started about every 20 seconds. Then the next evening, yesterday, I started it again and it was leaking badly from the front pump seal. I was pretty careful installing the seal and the torque converter... all three clunks. The installation went pretty easy, without any problems, everything torques to the correct spec. Where did I miss it? Should I have replaced the torque converter? Should I have sleeved the shaft? I'm an aircraft mechanic by trade and have been wrenching all my life, but this is my first (owning) LR. I used a Timken seal. Going to begin the process over again. Any advice?
#8860
A laundry list of maintenance issues has been completed, due some family issue some by shops :
New pads, rotors and stainless steel brake lines
1 in lift pucks in the rear only
New rear output seal on the transfer case - the large 30mm nut was actually loose supposed to torqued to 110 Ft/pnds
New rotoflex
New E-brake pads (I hate drum brake springs - really really hate them)
In for a new front crank seal - for 200.00 it is easier to have the shop do it, and they are giving me a tan cargo cover for nothing they have a bunch
New fan severe duty clutch going in once I get it from @acg the HD is great but the disco gets a bit warm on long steep uphills and everything here is a long steep uphill
Will need tie rod ends before years end, the terrafirma one's boots are all shot
New pads, rotors and stainless steel brake lines
1 in lift pucks in the rear only
New rear output seal on the transfer case - the large 30mm nut was actually loose supposed to torqued to 110 Ft/pnds
New rotoflex
New E-brake pads (I hate drum brake springs - really really hate them)
In for a new front crank seal - for 200.00 it is easier to have the shop do it, and they are giving me a tan cargo cover for nothing they have a bunch
New fan severe duty clutch going in once I get it from @acg the HD is great but the disco gets a bit warm on long steep uphills and everything here is a long steep uphill
Will need tie rod ends before years end, the terrafirma one's boots are all shot