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whats involved in dropping oil pan?
Im thinking about pulling the oil pan to have a look at big end rod and main crankshaft bearings. This is in regards to the dreaded tick and metal flakes Im getting in the oil. Any tips, tricks or need to knows when removing and putting back the oil pan? I have overviewed the rave, just interested in what people who have actually done it have experienced. What gaskets needed, what parts are in the way and have to be removed, total time to do job ect..
thanks! |
I haven't done this on my D2, but I did it on the D1.... which might be completely different.... but the problem I had on the d1 was the engine block, which isn't very different at all. The main caps are cross bolted, two bolts go in from the bottom and two go in from the sides. This means that everything has to fit together tightly (because aluminum doesn't like to flex too much). I found it very difficult to remove a main cap.... I've actually still got the bearings, turns out I didn't need to replace them. The rod cap was pretty easy to remove.
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Thanks, was it very hard to get the pan reinstalled without leaks? What reason for you ckecking your bearings?
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To get the pan off:
Jack the body (not the wheels) as high as you can, you need clearance between the oil pan and the front axle. Remove the front cross member. Remove the front drive shaft to give yourself extra wiggle room, this is not required but makes life easier. Otherwise you need to wiggle and twist the pan around the cat to get it off. Detach the tranny oil cooler pipes running along the oil pan as rave says, but do not remove the oil cooler line from the tranny. This way you do not loose tranny oil and there is enough slack in the lines to get the oil pan off. It's a messy job, you will get oil dripping in your eyes, hair, mouth, nose, ears.... Remove the spark plugs and use a big ratched on the main pulley bolt to rotate the crank so that you can get to each rod. The rear main cap is a bitch to get off and back on with a good seal, I would consider not touching that one - unless you install new bearings. It took me about 4 hours to drop the oil pan and pull the rod caps and plastigage them, I did not do the mains. |
Originally Posted by 94svt50
(Post 238280)
Thanks, was it very hard to get the pan reinstalled without leaks? What reason for you ckecking your bearings?
It turns out the cheap-o oil pressure switch I replaced to correct an oil leak was bad. I bought a new one, and no light. I learned a very expensive lesson about trusting other people to do work I can do myself. |
thanks for all the replys! I hope to tear into next week and see what kind of shape the bearings are in.
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Hey man I sent you a PM, I just got your message. I've done this start to finish so call me if you need to
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I removed and installed the oil pan without jacking up or removing anything. This was done during the front cover gasket and front seal replacement. I worked off my back on the ground with plenty of clearance. If you have the notorious Rover tick it is coming from a collapsed lifter. Bottom ends on the D2 are virtuously bulletproof. Again, ticking is from lifters, oil from exhaust is from bad guide seals. If you are to do a head job get valves reseated with new valve guide seals, mill heads. If you wish to replace bad lifters do not do without replacing the cam (new lifters will destroy the lob of the old cam). If the tick is not bad let it go, many LR owners have this tick at relatively low mileage, it's a LR thing. Mine started ticking two days after purchase and has been that way since. Do your research before tearing into her, she can be a cold hard bitch if you piss her off. Good luck and keep us posted.
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Originally Posted by Wolf
(Post 238876)
If you have the notorious Rover tick it is coming from a collapsed lifter. Bottom ends on the D2 are virtuously bulletproof.
[...] Do your research First google hit. |
ditto
Originally Posted by DarylJ
(Post 238907)
You should do your research. It's been done over an over again.....at least a portion of the ticking problems are compressed piston skirts/piston slap. That firmly rules out a bulletproof bottom end, even a "virtuously" bulletproof one.
First google hit. |
I've done the oil pan gasket this past winter. If you have a 2" lift = much easier. A tip is to number your oil pan with a Sharpy marker in the order your torque the bolts, refer to the RAVE. An air ratchet for removal is very helpful. Search Oil pan and check out my videos for cleaning it. Simple Green is your friend.
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I would have to agree, jack the body as high as you can get it without the tires coming off the ground. The oil pump pick-up sits down inside of the well which had a windage tray in it, so basically you have to come straight down for about 4-6-inches to clear the windage tray and then you can twist the pan to get it off.
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I must be the lucky one then, my bottom end is like new at 162K.
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Originally Posted by Wolf
(Post 238959)
I must be the lucky one then, my bottom end is like new at 162K.
A model with a poor service history is one that has a catastrophic failure rate of 10% or so. That's probably about where Discovery 2's are. The vast majority of people do nothing more than have head gaskets replaced around 100k. The fact that you are on a forum where nearly everyone is/has been working on their trucks is a confirmation bias that makes people think that every last one has major problems, and that's simply not the case. As with all model specific forums I've been on, 3/4 of the people aren't there for model specific advice because <insert forums topic> is the first car they've ever done any real work on, and what they really need is basic mechanical knowledge and troubleshooting procedures. They tend to walk away with the idea that every <insert forum topic here> is a ticking time bomb because they have neither the experience or depth of vehicle knowledge to know any better. |
Thanks for all the replys! oljohnboy I will call you when I start tearing into it,thanks
I really dont think iits a lifter issue, the noise comes from too low in the engine. |
Also now that I think about it, I think the RAVE was incorrect on the bolt count?
I think it says 14 bolts on the pan and 3 nuts on the timing cover, I think there were 16 bolts that held the pan on. I think there are two in the rear that hold the pan to the bellhousing that do not show up on the RAVE. |
Originally Posted by drowssap
(Post 239202)
Also now that I think about it, I think the RAVE was incorrect on the bolt count?
I think it says 14 bolts on the pan and 3 nuts on the timing cover, I think there were 16 bolts that held the pan on. I think there are two in the rear that hold the pan to the bellhousing that do not show up on the RAVE. |
drove me friggin crazy, I counted those bolts a half dozen times.
I read the RAVE a half dozen time more to see what I missed, then I found the other two hidden up top. |
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