Wheel lug nuts (bolts) not coming loose
#1
Wheel lug nuts (bolts) not coming loose
2001 Discovery. I was just trying to pull off a front wheel and tire. This is a somewhat new to me truck....so my first time having to pull a wheel. I assumed the shiny covers would have to come off the lug bolts or nuts....then noticed that the included lug wrench fit the shiny covers. Put the wrench on and stood on it (lightly at first to make sure the lug wrench would stay seated) then put all my 210 lbs on it and started lightly bouncing.....then bouncing more strongly............those suckers are NOT budging.......then, on the off chance those brits might have done a left hand thread on one side,....tried it the other way.........nothing...........back to counter clockwise with bouncing......still nothing....tried 3 nuts/bolts on the wheel.....all the same.
Am I doing something wrong? Or do I just need to wait until I replace the head gaskets and air up the tire and try to get it to a shop with monster impact wrenches fast before it goes flat again (the valve stem is cracked and leaking)
Brian in Cedar Park
Am I doing something wrong? Or do I just need to wait until I replace the head gaskets and air up the tire and try to get it to a shop with monster impact wrenches fast before it goes flat again (the valve stem is cracked and leaking)
Brian in Cedar Park
#2
They are prob stuck because someone used an impact wrench on them. If you ever need a mechanic to take them off make sure that they hand torque the lugs so you don't have this problem on the side of the road (plus it will warp the covers and mechanics don't like having to pay 30 bucks for a new one, at least mine didn't). When mine were hard to loosen I got a 4 foot breaker bar and that did the trick. Good luck.
#4
Those suckers have been overtightened by the last person, most probably a tire shop. Put a cheater bar on the lug wrench. Better still get the longest 1/2" breaker bar you can find with a 1 1/16" socket and use a cheater bar with that, because the stock lug nut wrench will bend.
Harborfreight have a sturdy 25" x 1/2" breaker bar for about $10.
Harborfreight have a sturdy 25" x 1/2" breaker bar for about $10.
#5
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#9
Do you mean because of putting anti seize on them? If they're loose enough to come off with anti seize, they weren't torqued properly to begin with.
+1 on what yloDisco said also. If you paint the contact area of the back of the wheel with anti seize you won't end up with them welded on. This was a huge problem on late 90's F150s on the right rear wheel. Somehow the engineers though it would be a good idea to run the end of the exhaust in FRONT of that wheel. The results were as expected, but anti seize on the back of the wheel kept it from happening.
+1 on what yloDisco said also. If you paint the contact area of the back of the wheel with anti seize you won't end up with them welded on. This was a huge problem on late 90's F150s on the right rear wheel. Somehow the engineers though it would be a good idea to run the end of the exhaust in FRONT of that wheel. The results were as expected, but anti seize on the back of the wheel kept it from happening.
#10
Those suckers have been overtightened by the last person, most probably a tire shop. Put a cheater bar on the lug wrench. Better still get the longest 1/2" breaker bar you can find with a 1 1/16" socket and use a cheater bar with that, because the stock lug nut wrench will bend.
Harborfreight have a sturdy 25" x 1/2" breaker bar for about $10.
Harborfreight have a sturdy 25" x 1/2" breaker bar for about $10.