see my post above or see see this link:

http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html

go to tech info/ driveshaft maintenance

So did you grease the center pivot point yet?

I greased all of my fittings but that one today and drove it around and still have the noise (same as you). So I got on the forum here, found your post, realized I didn't do the inside one, and was wondering if you tried greasing it yet? If so did the noise go away?

If not maybe you and I will both have to send the TW shafts back...

Also, what is the piece/nozzle that I will need to get that centering one greased? Is there a name for it or a part number at Napa? Anything would help, thanks...

Just got off the phone with Troy at Tom Woods...

He says you should grease the center ball about every 3,000 miles or 3 months, the most being 6,000 miles. He also said with our Disco's you would have to pull the shaft off to really be able to get to the center fitting. Only do 2 pumps with the gun tho otherwise you risk pushing the seal out. If this doesn't fix your issue and you have had the shaft for less than a year they will rebuild it, re-balance it, and ship it back to you for about $100. You have to ship it there first of course. They would replace the ball and whatever else is needed during this rebuild.

If you have the "Conventional Double Cardan" like I do you should have a total of 5 fittings (4 being the normal kind and one being needing the flush type fitting on the CV ball). You will need the "needle" type tip for your gun to do this one.

Now if you bought the "Conventional Two Joint" or the "Multiple Double Cardan" then I don't know the proper procedure and you should probably call them to ask.


I hope this helps you as well... Lets both post after we have done this and see if it cures the noise. I, like you, really hope I don't need a new t-case, but if I do I am getting one from an '04 for sure.

Glad to hear I am not the only one who missed this....lol. This is my wifes car who drove around with it for three days before I finally heard her pulling in to find out this was happening so I think just to be safe I am going to send it back to get it looked at. I had driven about 10,000 miles before this happened. Having to pull your drive shaft every 3000 miles sure seems like a pain in the ass to service this thing. Are you also suppose to do this with the factory drive shaft as well. I would have to bet that the majority of Disco owners out there with or without a Tom Woods shaft don't do this either. I haven't had the chance to buy the grease fitting yet but would like to try to grease it before I send it back. I'll post again when I find out more.

Correct me if I am wrong but that is why we bought TW shafts instead of Land Rover replacements, right? The LR shaft is NOT grease-able and that is why it fails... The TW is grease-able and rebuild-able, heavy duty, and half the price of the LR shaft.





So I just got back from Sears and they have the needle style tip for 5 bucks you need to grease the center ball. I am going to pull the shaft now, grease it, and take it for a test drive. I will post my results after I am done.

Solved!!!
 

Ok, so greasing the center ball solved the problem on my end - NO more noise...

First thing is: you do NOT have to remove the whole shaft... Only undo the end connected to the t-case, NOT the differential side.

I took a few pictures to help:

First thing is first mark the shaft where/how it was connected so you put it back on the same way you had it before. I use Wite-Out as you can see from the picture:

Attachment 47820

You will only be able to take 2 nuts off at one time, then just in the truck and place the t-case in "N" so you can rotate the shaft, then put in back in HI so it will stay still while you take the other 2 bolts off.


Then pull the shaft off the t-case side and let it rest on the cross brace:

Attachment 47821

Then rotate the shaft until you see this female fitting, my finger is pointing right at it:

Attachment 47822

Then put the needle type tip on the grease gun and pump it a few times until you can see grease come out:

Attachment 47823

Then put in back together using the markings you used:

Attachment 47824



Of course you do not have to remove it grease the other zurks and you can use the normal grease tip. You should notice that after you grease this inside one that it rolls around much easier now, almost no resistance at all...


Well I hope this helps... P.S. It took me about 30 minutes in and out of the garage to do this.

If I missed anything or if anyone has questions, just let me know.

Great post I think now I may go ahead and grease it and put it back on

Let us know if this works for you too-

question
 

i just found out that the whining grinding noise is comming from my "well if i buy it" transfer case. It only happens when you are driving over 30 miles an hour and you take your foot off the gas and decelerate. at about 20 miles an hour or when you touch the gas it goes away... You can hear the noise from the transfer case area... Has anyone ever had this happen?driving normal it's quiet...only when you take your foot off the gas...

Thanks Chris

On a stock DI what all needs to be greased?