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check ALT. has to put out better than 13.5 volts
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Originally Posted by hilltoppersx
(Post 261170)
Wow that is an awesome rebuild! thanks for the link. I went out there this morning tested my truck and it was still with a slight delay. I took the multi-plug apart and i woudlnt say spray because i literally soaked the entire unit plug and switch in WD40 to get any water out. if there is a way for water to get in there is a way for the wd40 to get in. needless to say i went thru a can of wd40. i plugged the plug back together and took it for a test drive. it doesn't have a delay any longer. i wouldnt say this was a permanent fix but for now it will hold me over. i would like to do that rebuild but im thinking when i have everything apart i might use that epoxy i have seen people pour into their ecu's to protect them from water or what he had said using petroleum jelly to at least give it a fighting chance. if worse comes to worse going to get a used one.
Hi, I'm dealing with this issue. Where exactly do I find this switch? Picture would really help. Thank you! |
Crawl under the transmission and look up toward the right hand side and you'll see it there with the connected linkage.
Disco Gear Selector Switch |
Originally Posted by JUKE179r
(Post 735418)
Crawl under the transmission and look up toward the right hand side and you'll see it there with the connected linkage.
Disco Gear Selector Switch Thank you very much. Stay safe |
Can bad XYZ cause P1562 (Battery supply below 9V while engine running)? I have a new battery and alternator, both testing fine and still getting limp mode. It starts about 5 miles into any drive, goes away with engine restart. Never an issues with starting or rough shifts, etc. Only code ever associated is P1562. I've checked all grounds and connections without finding any issues. Figure it has to be XYZ or trans control unit at this point. Any advice would help.
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Welcome to the forum.
That is weird that you would still get a P1562 with a new battery, new alternator and you checked all grounds and connectors. Something is sensing in the electrical circuit that you are still under 9VDC. Did you clear the fault code? If you don't have a diagnostic tester, you can totally remove the negative and positive connectors from the battery and touch them together for 10-15 minutes to reset the fault. You mentioned the xyz switch which replacing with a new one is incredibly expensive. Thoroughly check the wire bundles going to the xyz switch for chaffing and possibly shorting out causing the limp mode and fault code. If all looks good than you can try cleaning out the xyz switch which might solve the P1562 issue... maybe. Good luck. *EDIT* Also I was thinking.... check the connectors at your V8 ECU behind the glovebox and the 55-pin connector auto transmission EAT ECU under the LH front seat. The connectors and/or the wires in the connector could be loose or corroded (I've seen this issue more on TD5 ECUs in the engine bay). |
Thanks Juke. Yes, I've erased the codes. Cleared a couple times while driving and operations go back to normal for a couple of miles/minutes and then lights/limp modes come back again. I'll check out the ECU connectors and then start pulling apart wiring bundles. I have to bypass the shuttle valve for the 3 amigos this week anyway...might as well take everything apart. Thanks again.
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update - new XYZ switch and new TCU. still getting p1562 and limp mode (even more often now). tried another new battery, traced all wires and no visible issues. running out of ideas and getting closet to throwing in the towel.
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