Discovery 2 LS Conversion
#1211
I have. It's not the most straightforward setup. It depends what your GM ECM came out of the factory with (which A/C system, the varied in cars, trucks, SUVs). So you may have to change settings in the ECM or do a segment swap (hopefully not).
The signals between the GM ECM and Rover ECU are backwards, so electronics is required for signal switchover. I can PM you a diagram later when I get home.
The signals between the GM ECM and Rover ECU are backwards, so electronics is required for signal switchover. I can PM you a diagram later when I get home.
#1215
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Karmakannon (08-22-2022)
#1216
Ok, update for folks following along on their installs and thanks again Daedrix for the re-sounding logical support, appreciate it!
I re-drilled (15/32nds bit) the drivers side mount making it shorter by just a tad over 3/4", then cut off the excess as required to stay off the frame rail. This helped quite a bit in regards to getting it off the fire-wall. It is now just barely floating, I can slip a quarter between the head and firewall now, with room to spare, still tight but not so bad. This allowed for the other mounting bolt to the chassis on the passenger side to instantly line up and fall right into place. Though really that means the spacing is a hair too wide because when tightening the V- shaped mounts they want to cheat inward a little as tightened, still they compressed the rubber mounts and I figure it'd work and I'll call it good unless someone strongly sees it as a problem.
I couldn't have cheated it any further than the 3/4" though or the longer passenger side mount would not have reached and there's no material left before the edge of the mount so I can't re-drill that side as Daedrix touched on above. The motor currently isn't centered but it's a step closer and any further I don't think I'll be able to have the exhaust manifold flange clear the chassis or at least whatever shop does the exhaust will throw a fit and rightly so.
So I'll probably call the motor mount situation cured since I can't really move it further and at least now it's in the ball park. The driveshaft situation though is not cured it's just slightly better, it's to the point now that I could probably drive around the neighborhood and pull into my driveway casually at least without it hitting.
So, tomorrow I'll try to get the flexplate bolts in, I'm going to remove a thread or two from the bolts to make them easier to install as I've been warned it's a PITA. I checked them prior to all this to see if they could be shortened and confirmed a little more than 1 thread stuck through the back nut so they shouldn't lose any strength. Once that's done I'll loosen the motor mounts once more allowing the motor to sag in place and creating room to tighten the upper two bell-housing bolts that are otherwise hard to access. Then I'll re-tighten the motor mounts and have it finally landed into what is probably going to be it's final resting place.
If anyone has any thoughts on T-case angling or dropping, do share, I'm all ears.
Thanks again everyone, at some point I'll go through these posts of mine and create something organized and shorter.
-Greg
I re-drilled (15/32nds bit) the drivers side mount making it shorter by just a tad over 3/4", then cut off the excess as required to stay off the frame rail. This helped quite a bit in regards to getting it off the fire-wall. It is now just barely floating, I can slip a quarter between the head and firewall now, with room to spare, still tight but not so bad. This allowed for the other mounting bolt to the chassis on the passenger side to instantly line up and fall right into place. Though really that means the spacing is a hair too wide because when tightening the V- shaped mounts they want to cheat inward a little as tightened, still they compressed the rubber mounts and I figure it'd work and I'll call it good unless someone strongly sees it as a problem.
I couldn't have cheated it any further than the 3/4" though or the longer passenger side mount would not have reached and there's no material left before the edge of the mount so I can't re-drill that side as Daedrix touched on above. The motor currently isn't centered but it's a step closer and any further I don't think I'll be able to have the exhaust manifold flange clear the chassis or at least whatever shop does the exhaust will throw a fit and rightly so.
So I'll probably call the motor mount situation cured since I can't really move it further and at least now it's in the ball park. The driveshaft situation though is not cured it's just slightly better, it's to the point now that I could probably drive around the neighborhood and pull into my driveway casually at least without it hitting.
So, tomorrow I'll try to get the flexplate bolts in, I'm going to remove a thread or two from the bolts to make them easier to install as I've been warned it's a PITA. I checked them prior to all this to see if they could be shortened and confirmed a little more than 1 thread stuck through the back nut so they shouldn't lose any strength. Once that's done I'll loosen the motor mounts once more allowing the motor to sag in place and creating room to tighten the upper two bell-housing bolts that are otherwise hard to access. Then I'll re-tighten the motor mounts and have it finally landed into what is probably going to be it's final resting place.
If anyone has any thoughts on T-case angling or dropping, do share, I'm all ears.
Thanks again everyone, at some point I'll go through these posts of mine and create something organized and shorter.
-Greg
#1217
#1218
I had to feed mine in from inside the cabin out into engine bay using the larger grommet opening below the OEM engine harness hole.
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danyboyGA (08-24-2022)
#1219
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danyboyGA (08-24-2022)