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Originally Posted by ACEngineer
(Post 698103)
A couple of notes: first, we strongly suggest considering the Harness Rewire Service if you are concerned about wiring. Up to this point, most issues experienced have been related to wiring. With this service, we will examine your harness and do about 95% of the wiring for you.
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Excited! today after work, I'll pull the headless LR 4.6 out of the Rover and get it set aside. I'll probably heat the block, press the sleeves and see if I can have the block repaired and then rebuild the whole thing and sell it to someone who'd like a 4.6 that is freshly rebuilt for something cheap.
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Originally Posted by 05TurboS2K
(Post 698164)
Excited! today after work, I'll pull the headless LR 4.6 out of the Rover and get it set aside. I'll probably heat the block, press the sleeves and see if I can have the block repaired and then rebuild the whole thing and sell it to someone who'd like a 4.6 that is freshly rebuilt for something cheap.
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That's so awesome to hear Ace! Perfect timing for me.
Just got the LM4 onto the engine stand last night to start my medium refresh on it. Old engine getting shipped to Extinct tomorrow!.Good luck with it! The junkyard I purchased from did not include the engine harness for it so I'll have to source one second hand. Any suggestions? It also came with a DBW intake manifold. I'd rather keep things simple and switch to DBC. Is that what you'd recommend? Pics to inspire others! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...fa5ebbf86c.jpg 5.3L LM4 aluminum engine from a GMC Envoy XL https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...f6d2a017c8.jpg LS intake manifold with the drive by wire controller. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...b22e0dccd2.jpg Old 4.6L with overheating issues |
Originally Posted by CollieRover
(Post 698167)
i know that this was a gift for your wife, and has turned into a huge project, but you drop a nice LS in there, and she is going to be happy for years. You'll have something very cool and desirable.
I'm really hoping that's the case man!!! That's what I'm shooting here for. Honestly, with an LS in it, I'd actually very much like the vehicle, it's powerplant is the single reason I wouldn't otherwise want to own one. |
Originally Posted by losinov
(Post 698172)
The junkyard I purchased from did not include the engine harness for it so I'll have to source one second hand. Any suggestions?
Originally Posted by losinov
(Post 698172)
It also came with a DBW intake manifold. I'd rather keep things simple and switch to DBC. Is that what you'd recommend?
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Originally Posted by losinov
(Post 698172)
The junkyard I purchased from did not include the engine harness for it so I'll have to source one second hand. Any suggestions?
It also came with a DBW intake manifold. I'd rather keep things simple and switch to DBC. Is that what you'd recommend? Echoing what Daedrix said, the easiest solution is to use a drive-by-cable throttle body setup. We have worked with with the drive-by-wire setup and while we plan on offering it as an option in the future, the DBC is the easiest solution. The DBC throttle bodies are available for reasonable prices in junkyards and fit onto the Vortec intakes. There are many sources for the engine harness including eBay and aftermarket companies like PSI, BP Automotive, or Speartech. |
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...b152accc56.jpg
Well. My engine is out, now I'm just cleaning the engine bay of grease and prepping for the new motor. I figured this is the time to address anything I don't love about the engine bay. Ready for kit to be on sale!!!!!! Meanwhile: -Clean engine bay -Consider new gasket between T-case and tranny as it seems to be leaking (maybe not worth the trouble) -Consider drive shaft upgrade or at least build a guard for the tranny in case the drive shaft fails though it seems fine now -Look into lifting a couple inches (needed for swap anyway) -Find 16" set of tires to be winter/off-road tires and keep the 18's for summer street performance tires I may push the sleeve out of this motor and see if the block can be fixed, if so then I'll consider putting this motor together and selling it someone who wants a 4.6 with only 94k miles on it that can't drop sleeves. I'd only do this if it looks as though the block is otherwise not going to repeat the issue. I already have access to new rebuilt heads for $260 from a local fella to go with it if so. -Greg |
First time poster and a first time LR owner. I decided to create a login out of respect of all you guys on this forum who unknowingly helped me along the way during the past couple months, by posting their learning experiences with their Disco IIs that my google searches lead me to. As well as the generous and helpful guys at Alternative Conversions. All of you have saved me so much time and effort, so the least I could do is give some kudos to you guys as well as share my experience with the AC LS swap kit. Thank you. First Id like to start this out by saying this started out as project for my girlfriend who lives far away from me currently. She’s always wanted a Land Rover Discovery II and after doing some research I knew the LS swap version of the Disco II was the way for me to go. For the last 15 years I have either myself built/assembled/ and worked on countless airboat powertrains . Most of those have been GM, mostly gen I small blocks, some with an LS. Personally I have witnessed the increased reliability of airboat motors from the use of the gen III SBC, commonly known as the LS. So when I started reading about the horror stories about the 4.6 overheating, head gasket issues and cylinder sleeves weeping coolant that sealed the deal for me. I wanted to work with a motor I knew and knew to be reliable. I will give a condensed version of the order everything happened. Feel free to ask any details of my experience and I’ll be happy to lay it out. 1. Bought 2003 Disco II 4 hours away. Motor was blown. $800. 2. Spent a couple nights after work unbuttoning all the accessories, hoses, mounting brackets. I saved the torque converter bolts for last. Motor had threw a rod and was so locked up that I broke 2 sockets with a 3/4” drive 3’ breaker bar attempting to turn cranked by the balancer bolt. Finally i said “screw it and pulled the motor with the converter attached. 3. A couple days after I found a CDL bought and installed it. 4. While waiting for the swap kit to arrive I searched about 3 weeks for a reasonable aluminum 5.3. Plus was reading multiple hours a night about the different variations of the 5.3, what vehicles they came in, what letter in the vin indicated the motor. In the midst of the this I learned something important to lookout for. Do not by the 5.3 out of the FWD Impala. Proper name is the LS4. It has a different bell housing, a slightly shorter crank and no starter mounts. After lack of success I moved forward with an iron 5.3 with harness and pcm. Plus the kit from AC had made it in the mail. I was growing impatient, ready to have thing going! 5. Once I got the motor on an engine stand I began replace the oil pan and noticed quite a bit of sludge. I know that there are guys that make 1000hp with these stock bottom ends, even with sludge, but I couldn’t stomach putting the pan on without cleaning it. I began the breakdown process. 6. I broke the motor down to bare block. Polished the crank, sprayed it with over cleaner, pressure washed, added new Mahle piston rings, installed new cam bearings, added comp 54-458-11 crank shown on YouTube Speed Secrets channel to add 100hp over stock and completed reassembly. 7. Next I installed the AC accessory brackets on the stand. It was pretty straight forward. There was a little bit of trimming as noted in instructions but nothing major that couldn’t be done with a disk grinder. 8. The I was ready to drop in the motor.. I was unsuccessful because I didn’t follow instructions by purchasing the exhaust manifolds. Stock manifolds flared out too wide, hitting the frame rails. Thankfully I live in Texas because one of the Summit warehouses is a couple hours from me and delivers relatively quick. 2 days Later i stabbed the motor by myself. 9. Next was the wiring, which was pretty straight forward, except there is some variance in the colors for the GM throttle cable wires. Talking to the guys it’s sounds like the best was to verify is by checking the voltages. This ended up leading to me beating by head against the was due to the blinking M&S light issue, caused by splicing the wrong throttle cable wires. 10. Fired her up! Wow that feeling from the first crank on a motor you installed yourself never loses it's high! Somewhere in the middle of all this I installed a lift. I’m not sure if this was necessary for the front drive shaft to rub the trans bellhousing? ACE could probably answer this better, but either way I knew I wanted a lift and wanted to replace the rear air suspension that was leaking. Since then I've been playing around with it and fine tuning it, nothing major as work has been super busy lately. I’m sure I left plenty out of this story and I am more than happy to help or answer questions for anyone else out should they chose to embark on this swap. I’m completely happy with all the thought that went into creating this swap kit and how they went above and beyond supporting me with any questions I had. The countless hours that they took to come up with this was well worth every penny and second that I put into it. I've even gotten compliments from multiple automotive professionals! It’s safe to say I’ve caught the Rover bug and I’m ready to start another! Also, if anyone needs any tuning help and lives near Texas, let me know, I'd be interested to help! |
A few pictures
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