2002 RR P38 Starts and then stalls
 

Looking for a little help, I have a 2002 Range Rover P38, one evening I drove to the ski resort and parked, 3 hours later came out and the thing would start and then stall, start and stall until the battery got weak. I got back to my shop and let thaw out for a couple of days, it was 5 degrees all week, put gas in it, thinking maybe out, still starts and stalls, talked to some people, replaced a bunch of relays in the engine compartment, even replaced the fuel pump. My buddy plugged into his scan tool and came up with code P1667 or P1665...I'm out of ideas, hopefully you guys can help?

This sounds like a crank shaft position sensor problem. It is a relatively easy repair, but you need to order a new sensor. http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/ERR7354G.cfm

Thanks
 

Thanks for your input, that was the next item to try after reading other posts. I will give it a try, it's sunday so it will take a couple of days for me to get the part, I will post when I change it out....Again thanks

wow, you talked to the wrong people. I bet you could have diagnosed the problem with simple things like fuel pressure testers and lead lights and even a jumper wire.

fuel pumps on bosch systems rarely if ever go. Its common sense to diagnose before replacing such an expensive part especially if you have to remove the tank. Also stalling problems can be more then just the sensor. It could be a MAF sensor acting up causing stalling issues. A vehicle that turns over and starts will most likely have a good crank sensor. diagnose before throwing parts at it.

Starts and stalls
 

Thanks, I did check the pressure and it wasn't good, I had a pump on the shelf so I cut a hole in the floor borad and took it out from the top. Checked the pressure and it was good. still will not run. It fires good runs for 2 seconds and quits. I can do that same thing a 100 times, no differences.....do you know how to check the MAF? I do have to buy a crank sensor so if I can check the MAF first that will save me some money.....

codes p1667 & p1665
 

P1667 P1665 have one thing in common, the ECU. P1667 is a fault with anti-theft system ECU. P1665 is a problem with throttle angle (I assume throttle position sensor). Diagnoses of both codes include checking connectors to ECU. Connector C637 for anti-theft and connector C636 for throttle position. They are right nect to each other on the ECU. I imagine this is the most likely place to look for a problem because both systems don't really cross paths in any other place. I'm attaching diagram of ecu connectors and diagnostic procedures for both codes. Always check for codes before wasting time and money.

Thanks for your input, the ECU where is it, know where the BeCM is but don't see the ECU.

ecm location
 

Alldata's diagrams are a little confusing on this, but removal procedure says you have to remove 2 screws securing the cruise control module. Follow the cruise control cable from the throttle body to the metal cannister. That's the module. It's secured by 2 screws, attached to the "EAS housing cover". From there on, the diagrams suck. Then it says...

Release 2 fixings securing ECM housing cover and release cover.
Disconnect ECM cooling fan plug (connector).
Release ECM from housing cover. Disconnect plogs (connectors) and remove ECM.

So, in the engine compartment, somewhere in the vicinity of the cruise control actuator, has a cooling fan for it.

Wish I could be more help. Good luck.

I've got a guy how is going to plug it into a rover test book before I go to far in the wrong direction. We think its the BeCM or part of it. I will keep you posted.....What a pain.....just parts right.....

No news yet, I had hoped to get more input on my truck, weather has been bad here so a delay on getting my rover to the test book.....I guess this thread is lost on my problem...When I get it figured out I will post the answer, it can't be to hard, just need tools i don't have.....until then...keep it in the mud..