So if all you care about is a smooth ride why did you not listen to EVERYONE that said the coil springs are ok if you DON'T care about a rough ride? If you really wanted a smooth ride you would have fixed it right.

hi,

I did some research, and the reviews have been mixed. Personally I don't have anymore money or time to throw into the EAS system. So I am proceeding with the conversion when I am ready to sell the car in 1.5 - 2 years I will re-install the EAS and get 1 air shock/ air bag. I had air suspension problems with my S500 & CL500, and the repairs made me cry!! because of the recurrence, and cost. And the funny thing is that the everything else worked perfect except for the EAS:mad:. I cant go through it again bro, I rather spend the money on vacations :p, then EAS repairs.

I have had (2) p38'S MY02 had EAS and I purchased a compressor, bags, valve block, o rings and still she leaked. The ride felt like a boat (very floaty) yes it was cool to raise and lower the suspension, but worth the extra cost? The main reason P38's are cheap is due to EAS issues. I purchased a MY99 with the AB conversion and it rides more like my Discovery's not an exploder (explorer). If we were in the UK it would be standard without EAS. I also added OME shocks and I like going out in the morning getting in and going on my way with out any EAS delays. here is a link to diagnosing your EAS if you fell so inclined
Air Suspension Faults, Diagnosis and Repair

I'm switching to coil
 

My 05 range has 114k on it now, The past year I have spent around 9,000 on repairs to the eas. It as been in and out of the shop 8 times , and the suspension is currently down. I have no choice but to switch to coil.

How about switching shops about 6000 dollars ago.

It was worked on at several shops including the dealership.

well if your 9k into your EAS you need to cross all of them off your list, and buy a spray bottle with some soapy water

see if this helps you:

Last week we received a 2005 Range Rover for service. It had two observable symptoms – the suspension would go flat, and the suspension warning light was on. We scanned the car using the Land Rover test system, and read several faults.

We got a long time to charge suspension fault, a rear height sensor fault, and a low voltage fault. That’s when things got complicated. The car obviously had multiple issues. What now?

When you see a long time to charge fault in a six year old Range Rover, it usually means the compressor is worn out. The question is – why? Compressors on these trucks wear out on their own, but they also wear out because of leakage (it overworks them and kills them even quicker.) As a service person we have no way to know what’s happening. We have to change the compressor and see what happens.

Unfortunately, it wasn’t a simple one step fix. The compressor contains electronics, and it has different running parameters from the original unit. We didn’t discover that until we opened the replacement part. Carmakers do that – they supersede parts without warning, and we service people just have to roll with it. We installed the compressor, and got a new fault. After a call to LR Tech Support, we learned that new software was needed in the controller, but the controller might not be compatible.

That took us to the second problem – the battery voltage. Software programming is a power-intensive process. That’s why you always have to have your laptop connected to AC power when doing an update. For the car, we need a strong battery. So we proceeded to change it. It's very common for a car with a single issue in the customer's eyes to have multiple underlying causes.

With a good battery in place we did the software download – and presto – Nothing! Another call to techline confirmed the original suggestion – not all control units accept the new update. The solution – a car-wide update, which we are waiting to receive and load.

If that cures the problem, we are done with this step. If it doesn’t, the car will need a new suspension controller as well – one that runs the latest software and controls the new compressor – which is the ONLY compressor they now sell. This is truly a situation where additional layers of troubleshooting and repair reveal themselves as we go.

Once this situation is resolved, we still have to solve the height sensor problem. Once again, it’s a step by step thing. A new sensor may be the answer, but the sensor fault may be an artifact of something larger – leakage from an airbag, or even intermittent connections from a corroded wire harness. When a car is 5-6-7 years old, anything is possible.

What’s the takeaway message from this story? Don’t ever ask “How bad can it be?” because even a simple seeming problem can expand or resist resolution for a long, long time with the complexity of today’s cars. All we can know is what the fault codes tell us. Owners believe they point straight to an answer, but they seldom do. More often than not, the codes reveal multiple problems, and the solutions – as seen on this truck – may themselves be sequential processes. There is no way for us to know what it will take to reach the endpoint – a fixed car – until we are there.

That is the unfortunate reality of computerized automobiles.

I personally deleted the EAS from my P38. I used the AtlanticBritish kit, although I used Bilstein shocks. Spend the grand once. The shocks make the ride. It's no EAS, but it will never sag, or leave you stranded. I just wish they made a BeCm module. lol


Note: My 2013 M3 was also swapped for the Bilstein PSS10 set, and not a single regret.

So, I went to shocks also and have the "AirSus Inactive" error that pops up constantly, is there a way to bypass this error and have the truck thinking it's there? Just trying to fool the comp into thinking all is well. Thanks in advance!