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-   -   Water pump replacement advice (https://landroverforums.com/forum/general-range-rover-discussion-archived-19/water-pump-replacement-advice-33362/)

West Slope Rover 08-13-2010 09:27 PM

Water pump replacement advice
 
I posted this in General Tech Help, but I'm new to the forum and I'm not sure if that's the proper place so I'm starting a thread here. Mods, please forgive any FNG screw up.


This is my first post other than my introduction. I'm about to replace the water pump on my 1993 County with the 4.2 under the hood. It all seems straight forward enough, but I thought that I might ask those in the know if there are any things to be aware of peculiar to this vehicle.

I'm aware that the threads on the big fan nut are reverse threaded (just give the wrench a good whack with a hammer in the proper direction while the belts are still attached, correct?)

Anything else that I should know before I begin? I must admit that I love the car, I'm a bit intimidated by the mechanics of this beast after reading about it on the interweb! Thanbks in advance for any help given. Hopefully, someday I can be the one helping with advice.
__________________
Dan

1993 County LWB 66,000ish miles

LRScott 08-13-2010 09:49 PM

The mechanical sides of things on the classics are very rugged. Its all the lucas electrical BS that gives them their reputation :) . I did the water pump on my P38 a few months back. Its pretty straight forward, but prepare to make a mess! Drain your radiator first. Remove the fan clutch. Disconnect the serpentine belt. Then unscrew the bolts on the water pump. 2 of the bolts on the water pump will drain the water jackets (at least they do on the P38). Take the water pump off, get rid of the old gasket. I used a chisel but, steel wool on a drill will work much faster from what I've been told. Plop the new pump on with the new gasket and sealant. Refill the reservoir with 50/50 coolant and top up after you run the engine for 30 seconds or so.

I ended up filling the reservoir up, then the radiator up through the incoming hose on the top, and then block up through the same hose. This keeps the possibility of any of the cylinders overheating to a minimum. I let it run, topped up after 30 seconds. And then let it sit overnight to allow the remaining air to come out. I don't think the classic has as many areas that air can get trapped in the cooling system, but thats what I did to prevent airlock :). Good luck!

West Slope Rover 08-14-2010 08:07 AM

Thank you for your help. I appreciate it.


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